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Old 03-18-2007, 18:19   #1 (permalink)
Randy Williams
 
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351w rod journals

After doing some research, I've found out the rod journals are supposed to be 2.311" on a 1969 351w crank. All I've found on sites such as Summit, Jeg's, Ford Racing, ect. The cranks they all sell have rod journals of 2.1"...of course that is a -.211" difference. I'm not sure if there is "room for play" when it comes to cranks, but I'm going to assume the answer is no. I don't want to ruin a new crank if I buy one.........and I've looked all over for one that matches exactly with no luck. (I just want a stock crank, no increase in stroke....just a good ol' external balanced 3.5" stroke, 2.311" rod journaled crank. Cast, Steel, whatever....just a stocker)

My question is...what do I do then? Does anyone have a site that sells stock cranks. I just want to get going on my motor, and I keep running into little things like this. (it's my first build so bare with me if I'm missing something obvious haha)

My dad keeps telling me they make oversized/undersized bearings to make the difference up, but I've only seen stock, .01, .02, .03, .04. +'s or -'s

Please help a lost First Timer Ford
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Old 03-19-2007, 20:21   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

Hi 95Ranger351,
The answer to your question is that the crank you are looking at is an aftermarket item, which has been machined to accept 2.100 rod bearings.
Not by coincidence, this happens to be Chevy small block size!!
It is quite common to run this size bearing size, as it opens you up to a whole lot more choice with aftermarket rods. There are literally dozens of rod lengths to choose from, in this size.

I actually run a Chevy big end size on my 351C crank and run 6.250 Chevy rods, still with a standard stroke.

Hope this helps

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Old 03-20-2007, 12:00   #3 (permalink)
Randy Williams
 
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Re: 351w rod journals

Thanks for the reply man

so basically, i would just get some rods that are at least 6.0" in length and find a piston that's taller right? (i believe that's called compression height) they would both make up the difference of the missing .211".
i just want to make sure i'm thinking correctly

thanks again
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Old 03-20-2007, 20:54   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

Unless you know for sure that your existing crank is junk, I would take it to a machine shop and have them check it out. They will probably turn it, but they will also match it up with the proper bearings you need afterward. Take them the block, rods and new pistons and have them balance everything too. It really does not cost that much more and it makes a world of difference.
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:59   #5 (permalink)
Randy Williams
 
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Re: 351w rod journals

that's what i wanted to do originally. but there's a problem.

i started off with a 85w block, rotating assembly and all. i found out the block was junk and had to get another (i still have the 85 bottom end). then i found a 69 block, but there are differences here and there between the two. first off, the deck heights differ. (no big deal, just find the right combo for the rods, ect to make up the difference.) the thing is....the 85 crank is set up for a 1-piece rear seal. the 69 cranks are set up for two piece, so that would mean taking my crank to get machined "even more" along with balancing, turning if needed, ect. it doesn't make sense to me and trying to use my old crank when it would either cost more, or about the same at least.

old crank= turning, machining to accept 2-piece rear seal, balancing

new crank= drop in out of box, balance everything
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Old 03-21-2007, 20:40   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

OK, I gotcha. Wasnt sure of the details there at first. You can buy a crank for the 69, you just have to specify 1 or 2 piece rear seals. Your machine shop could locate one for you. I think I would opt out for finding a rebuildable engine somewhere though. Turning one and a set of bearings is usually cheaper. If you didnt live so far away I could set you up with one. Supposed to be for a 95 truck. I pulled it out for an all factory engine with 24000 miles. The one I took out has about the same on a new professional rebuild. I didnt like the way it would idle. Probably has more cam than its supposed to.
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Old 03-26-2007, 20:54   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

I would def. do that, but I would rather go carbed for my first build to learn the basics.

That would be nice to have a motor that new with only 25k on it though. I have a question though, even if the cam was to big for the motor's own good...couldn't you have the computer calibrated to tone down the fuel input? (i have no idea, probably not) I wish I had a few builds under my belt, and I would find a wrecked 03-04 cobra (if the money was there) and drop in the s/c'd 4.6. with traction bars, and slicks...it would be high 12's for sure.

what do you mean by "opt out for a buildable engine"? Do you mean a complete engine or what? My block is still useable my friend. Let me know
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Old 03-26-2007, 21:50   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

What I meant by opt out for a rebuild-able one, was find a complete engine. Just an option. The other option would be to have the machine shop match your block up with a crank. A little more expensive probably then buying a complete engine in need of a rebuild. I would build a carbed engine if I was doing it. They are a lot less trouble. The fuel injection is nice and they run good, but when you have troubles you have to chase them down. A carbed engine is easier to troubleshoot. You can tune a computer to match the cam you use. But it takes someone who knows what they are doing. There are a lot of variables in that process that I am not familiar with. Holley has an EFI setup that you tune with a laptop. The factory computers can be tuned with chips and actually getting into the computer and changing parameters. There again, uncharted territory for me. I like my big block with its 950 CFM carb lol.
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Old 04-04-2007, 21:00   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 351w rod journals

um you will still need to balance the NEW crank - you will need the pistons rings bearings and all for your machine shop to get a bobweight to use when balancing your crank too.

but for a re ring/re bearing on a stock setup with stock pistons and rods you can get away with not REbalancing the stock used crank..... usually
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