Quasi

Most likely this has been asked before, but was unable to come up with anything specific on a search of the forums.

I have my baby booked in for a dyno session at the end of the month and want to change the air filter setup before then.

Obviously a lot of guys run K&N, but is there another one I should give consideration to. I hear Atobahn have one that is usually in stock that does the job nicely, for a lot less $$$.

Already has Pacemaker 'Competition' headers feeding a full length 3" system with hi flow cats and single Lukey. Motor is stock (as far as I know), as is induction.

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JC-XR8

Either the $50 Pod style filters from Autobarn, or the $30-odd from Supercheap will do the trick nicely. Plus around the same again ($50) for the adaptor required to bolt it to your MAF sensor. With the setup you have, it should be good for around 1 to 2 rwKw.

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AU1 XR8 Auto 147.9 rwkw (approx 215 fwkw)

AU2 Wagon HAD Auto
17s, Pacemakers, 3" Intake & Pod filter (The Family Hack)

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ATPS (honorary)

EDXR8

Its a lot easier to fit a K&N panel filter rather than a pod filter. A pod will require you to either remove the airbox and suck hot air, or modify the air box so the pod can sit inside. A panel filter flows more than enough even for heavily modified engines.

Also, K&N cost more because they are much better products. They have been tested to outflow other products while still offering excellent filtering.

LTDHO

I agree,

Fit the panel filter. I did ages ago (back when I had a box) and it gave me more are the rear than a brand new Ford one. You may have legal problems with a pod in your state. In Vic they are illegal. Grrr.

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EL1XR8

One other thing that you might want to try is to slide a length of 3" stainless exhaust tubing into the duct between the airbox and TB, so it smooths out the airflow through the convoluted (flexible) section of this ducting. Just measure the length of the flexible bit, and make it about 20-30mm longer. If you look at some of the companies that make replacement ducts for the commodores, they reckon replacing with a solid piece is worth 5-8 Kw, and in the US C&L makes a solid duct to go from the MAF to TB, and they reckon a 2 RWHP gain too. This is a cheap way to get the same result (in my opinion anyway).

These gains aren't huge, but for the money (under $5), its pretty easy. I used a few hose clamps to stop it moving around (and consequently wearing out the ducting), and so that these didn't look so obvious i covered them in black electrical tape first (it really doesn't look bad, honest). One tip, put a bit of WD40 or similar on the tube first, to help it slide in easier.

Its pretty hard to get the duct back on again, as it doesn't move much now, but once its on, there doesn't seem to be any problems with it not having enough flex in it. I've had this on for a couple of months only, so time will tell if it creates any other problems