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Camshaft selection?!?!

8K views 63 replies 6 participants last post by  AU2XLSV8 
#1 ·
On what looks like good advise i looked at the crane 2030 cam! But now am contemplating 2040. i have a 2500 stall converter. wondering How much difference i'm likley to expect. does anyone have some advise here. whats the hp potential difference etc is it worth the rougher idle?
 
#2 ·
The 2040 from memory is Cranes version of SVO's E303 cam 498 lift and 220/220 @50 and 110*Imo the 2030 is better, more lift and wider lobe centres ...
The split cams are better...
 
#4 ·
Awsome guys. Thanks! 2030 it is then! How much $ am i looking at for the kit. After maf that'll prolly be my first move just before unichip.
 
#5 ·
Actually the correct maf and injectors you may not need unichip..
 
#6 ·
Okay i'm certainly learning here! Tell me more. i assume your recommending 30lb injectors and what type, size, brand etc maf? or will it be right with my Au blues?
 
#8 ·
ebxr8240 said:
Actually the correct maf and injectors you may not need unichip..
But you should be prepared to get one if necessary. With my car, the factory computer was running the engine way too rich which dulled performance and made the car altogether unpleasant. So I had a Unichip installed and tuned.

The result? Power and throttle response improved whilst the fuel consumption and emissions went down.

I am assuming you have the factory 24lb injectors (blue) already so there should be no need to change these (or the MAF sensor) if you are just installing this camshaft.
 
#9 ·
So the Maf is of sufficient size to flow for the power req'd? I assume that my comp will struggle to cope and the 20 odd kw the unichip got for you with the cam is great value in any case!!! Can't wait to get the cam and comp changed, with all the other work it has it's been asking for a cam for months and months! Any ideas on cost and who is good to use in qld on the sunshine coast or bris. i would do it myself but apartment living leaves alot to be desired garage wise.
 
#10 ·
You can use Bob Romano in morniside or I think Redcliff Dyno do unichips as well, there is another place as well but it is a little further down, on the Goldie.
 
#11 ·
What I'm saying is with mods the engine gets heaps more air so the rich mixture it has before "may" change.. If you mod to bigger maf consider bigger injectors.
30 Lp is usless with blown/ turbo engines.Factory Lightnings run 42's..They are not like jets in carb, you can run bigger and improve on other things...
 
#12 ·
I think i'll stay stock injectors maf until/unless i go the blown option again. i'll let the unichip manage things.

redcliff!!! only about 45 mins away might be best option! Where is morniside?
 
#13 ·
It is near Wooloongabba, just up and around the river closer to the ocean, actually it is only about 5-10 mins in traffic, but the good thing is he has a good guarantee with his workmanship.
 
#14 ·
AU2XLSV8 said:
I think i'll stay stock injectors maf until/unless i go the blown option again. i'll let the unichip manage things.

redcliff!!! only about 45 mins away might be best option! Where is morniside?
You are only fitting a cam so far, but if you go later and port or fit aftermarket heads.Then...

The comp /eec will run any power you want.It's the sensers etc that keeps everything calibtrated.Unichip as you'v guessed I don't like as the eec eventually tunes itself around them..Adaptive control ..

What fuel set up did you have blown ???
 
#15 ·
Already had the heads ported so i'm really looking forward to the cam helping it take advantage! \
Fuel set up was a very wrong 2 extra injectors with (south african co.) microfueler. LPGAS1 was to be a distributor so i guess they were dying to make it work... but failed big time. i've had drama's with comp systems all along really. A chip controlled timing. All very sad! i had the vortec on my prevous EL six pot and it ran awesome with just a chip to control. i could go on forever about this but won't. Love to s/c again but i want to build N/A at this time.
 
#16 ·
I got a quote on cam and fitting. Cam will come in at $820 ish with springs etc. The guy was pretty hot to fit the 2040 but 2030 is same $$$. fitting is up between 500-700 depending on work involved. So i figure that $1500 is what the doctor is asking + Any follow up tuning of course. At the risk of sounding repeditive is this about right?
 
#17 ·
Don't want to throw a wet towel over cam choice etc..
BUT have you thought of fitting 1:72 roller rockers?
It will take lift from 444 to 477 as in Sprint etc...
in both cases cam or r/rockers good valve springs are required..
 
#18 ·
That sounds a little expensive for the cam and springs, although I got quoted $535 for the cam + springs, so I am not too sure how it will go. Why didn't they ask to put a cam in your beast when they were doing the heads, it would have saved a little on labour???
 
#19 ·
I was in transit from melbourne to qld when the engine was way past due to be finished and the money tree was empty. didn't want to put cam in to find that it wouldn't drive and ask for more $ that wern't there! I got quoted 535 odd for the cam too but the springs and retainers brought it up more if you know where to get 535 for both please tell me which shop to talk to!!!! The gut at crane recommended the 2040 and then i could upgrade rockers when i wanted more, still unsure of what to go for 2030 looks great but makes power a lil lower in the revs and i figure since it's a 5.0 it'll need to rev a lil more to get best benefit. The auto is a c10 3 speed and cruises at 3000rpm at 100 kays (want to rev to 6500rpm). I don't want my power band to come in too early and i only get to use some of it because of stall and cruise speed. what can i expect from rockers alone (keep in mind it's a 175kw cam not an xr8 number)! Guys please feel free to tell me if i'm not on track here (ie.wrong) i know superchargers pretty well but the traditional v8 mods are all new to me.
 
#20 ·
Slipper what rpm are you making the power at? eg. at 170-180 kph what revs is your car at? same for 125 kph etc and where does the cam kick into life! this will be great help thanks!
 
#21 · (Edited)
AU2XLSV8 said:
Slipper what rpm are you making the power at?
Check the dyno graphs in the other thread; they have the Power vs RPM details you want (I have even created a Torque vs RPM graph).

The engine pulls hard from 2500 and is really honking at 4000 where peak torque is made. I have the stock AUII drivetrain (T5 and 3.45 diff) but the gearing in *your* car is all that matters...
 
#23 ·
IMO if you want a cam better or higher reving than 2030 consider the TFS-51402000 it has 221*/225* @50 499/510 valve lift 112* lob sep..Shouldn't be much over $500.00..Btw they are around $160 U.S...
 
#24 ·
*******! What is it about the cam specs that make it a higher revving/better cam? higher duration @50 kills bottom end (i think) but because my stall is 2500 i'm unsure as to whether a cam that comes in at 2000 (specs sheet says) and goes to 5500 is the best choice. i need the extra revs. my highway cruise speed is 3000 odd rpm at 100kph, i'm 1/3 through the power range of the cam if i plant it from here. The crane boys recommended the 2040 and said i could go 1.7 rockers later if i want more lift. Whats the rev range of the tfs cam? once again thanks for the help here!
 
#25 ·
Depends on inlet etc..Between 2500 & 3000 rpm..www.trickflow.com I like the better choice of good heads no more than 220*on inlet and use a cam with a fair bit of lift. Say if your head flows real good at 520 lift it pays to have the valve lift just over that or atleast near it to get the most out of your combination...But keep in mind proper valves springs are required as most heads are fitted with single springs etc...hth
 
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