Seems I got screwed every which way in my info on this one.
Of the two stores I called (which didn't have cold thermo's available apparently), it seems that they were both quoting me on I6 thormostats. Which is strange given I asked for "Ford Falcon EL V8 thermostat".
Anyways, I figured I'd go in person to repco (one of the two I called). Once there, they realised it was an I6 i'd been told about, but then said the only way to change the thermostat in a V8 was to get a new thermostat *and* housing, for $160. Needless to say I left.
Finally I found sanity at Pacific Spares (waitara), who not only knew what I was talking about, but had 3 different temps available . . .
So I got the coldest available as an experiment (at something like $10 each I figure I can afford to experiment a little :) and throw if its too cold...
I think figure that my old thermostat is probably a little wobbly, and not opening up as much as it should, so Soxx is probably right, and the cold one will be too much . . . but I guess we will find out eh ? :)
(radiator flushing is on my list of christmas break amusement anyhow)
I'd be interested in the results of your little experiment as I went and did the same thing last summer, put a 180 Tridon in the NC, found it ran a lot cooler and the fuel consumption didn't noticeable change. But on paper (at the time) I didn't want to go any cooler than 180.
NC Fairlane 5Ltr Twin Stainless Steel 2.5", Air Induction
Yesterday I threw in the new thermo, replaced a few hoses I'd been meaning to for months (fixed a slow leak), and gave it a bit of a flush out.
With the coldest thermo ( can't remember brand - will have to try and find the box ) it now runs very cool. It *just* manages to creep into the normal zone during normal driving on a 27 degree day. . . .
So I'm figuring this is probably good, since the planned underdrive pullies will probably make it run a little hotter....
Interestingly, the new thermo ( not a ford one ), didn't have an air bleed valve in it (old one had a ball bearing mounted over a hole). We drilled a small hole, and threw a split pin through it (to try and prevent it getting blocked by crap, and to reduce any flow through it).
All in all, seems like a sucess - although how much is to a colder thermo, and how much to a *new* thermo is debatable . . .
Just a word of caution here.
If your engine is now running considerably cooler than it was designed to be, it could wear quicker than normal.
Manufactures specify an optimum operating temp at which all engine components will be at the correct size. Engine parts expand and contract as they heat up and cool down and all engines will be most efficient at a certain temp.
Don't panic, as it's probably only very subtle if it's only 10deg less, but you should still be aware of it.
4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
This makes me wonder... I have a fairmont ef v8, and it was running quite warm when i bought it. Replaced some hoses and new radiator [blocked FAR too much], and it's running fairly cool. On an average highway cruise, it will sit at the very bottom normal line, after a fair bit of driving though, it might head up to the A [ef dash ...]. In hard mountain driving , it'll get up to M. Should I be concerned that it runs quite a lot at the bottom? Maybe new thermostat time?
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