I had a chat with a fellow in a high performance outfit today about improvements to my car and I asked him about what I can have done to my EL V8 without actually putting in a single extra drop of fuel to get more performance and after we'd discussed the air intake side and the exhaust side of things, he mentioned the engine computer. He stated that the engine computer in his opinion already runs richer than it needs to be and that he can remap it for a bigger gain in performance and ultimately using less fuel in the process... for about $1400.
I never realised just how much these sorts of mods could cost. Is this the sort of price that is normally placed on remapping the engine computer or am I just out of touch?
SVU347, I would have expected that that was what he was suggesting...
Vic, its possibly a little more than I would have expected for a Unichip or similar product, but not greatly so. Most of the custom chips I've heard seem to be $1000+
Its not cheap, but performance never is There are a few things, but not many, that will get much gain for less than $1000 on the V8's . . .
I would be spending the money on a decent exhaust first. Car will probably get more rwkw and will sound heaps better. A good exhaust will also complement anything else you do to the engine.
Regarding the "remapping" what product are you talking about?? There are a few products around and I have tried most of them and know most of the advantages and disadvantages.
If your want a UniChip I have one that was on my EL which you can have for $250.
Mick
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2004 BA XR6 TURBO Phantom, Auto, Premium Brakes & Sound, Leather etc. etc.
APS Stage II = 267rwkw = 12.16@118.5mph on street tyres
Well I am looking to start with a bigger/better snorkel ( possibly a TE snorkel ) and adding a K&N filter. That may gain me a few kilowatts and would probably cost me upto about $200. Then I would like to research some exhaust info which is goanna be a turd considering how little I know about exhaust dynamics - and I am dreading the cost of buying it and having it installed as I emptied my bank account getting this car.
Those two items should be the cheapest start into gaining some extra performance for my car and the combination of the air and exhaust upgrades by themselves will also gain me some more fuel efficiency when I am not giving the car a bootful which I consider important as I am now spending 80% of my time driving sedately and 20% driving like a madman whereas in my youth I was doing the opposite.
In regard to engine computer remapping - I am yet to learn if remapping means remapping the existing setup without changing any hardware within or that remapping means that a different chip is always added in this activity.
If your on a tight budget do the easy things first:-
- If your air cleaner is crappy get a K&N. Try and get a deal on the recharge kit and clean the filter every 5,000ks (change oil at same time).
- Check plugs for condition and gap, replace if required.
- Depending upon how many k's your cars has done, check the dizzy cap and rotor button. I couldn't believe how much mine had worn at about 125,000k's.
- Also consider replacing the leads if the k's are as above.
- Clean the MAF wire (if you don't now how to ask us)
- Check the timing. It can usually be advanced a few degrees from standard without any problems.
There are two types of so called remapping to the standard ECU, an interceptor (eg. UniChip) that modifies some signals to and from the ECU by splicing into the wiring, and a Plug In Chip (eg. Chip Torque) that actually reprograms the ECU without any changes to the wiring.
__________________
2004 BA XR6 TURBO Phantom, Auto, Premium Brakes & Sound, Leather etc. etc.
APS Stage II = 267rwkw = 12.16@118.5mph on street tyres
If your on a tight budget do the easy things first:-
- If your air cleaner is crappy get a K&N. Try and get a deal on the recharge kit and clean the filter every 5,000ks (change oil at same time).
- Check plugs for condition and gap, replace if required.
I will do so. I have asked a few places for the appropriate K&N air filter and the price ranges from $140 upto about $180. Is there a shop in Melbourne who sell the filter cheaper?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mick
- Depending upon how many k's your cars has done, check the dizzy cap and rotor button. I couldn't believe how much mine had worn at about 125,000k's.
Odometer currently at 88,000km's. Can it be sufficiently worn at that age to be a problem?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mick
- Also consider replacing the leads if the k's are as above.
Wouldn't know what to expect if they were dodgy other than the engine missing or losing power at certain rpm. What other fault can dodgy leads create?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mick
- Clean the MAF wire (if you don't now how to ask us)
That might be a good idea Mick, could you instruct me in laymans terms on how to go about this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mick
- Check the timing. It can usually be advanced a few degrees from standard without any problems.
I have had a mechanic I know, bridge the computer and then adjust the timing down to 29 degrees. So far, no pinging and I am running on Optimax. Is there a particular timing setting that is optimum?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mick
There are two types of so called remapping to the standard ECU, an interceptor (eg. UniChip) that modifies some signals to and from the ECU by splicing into the wiring, and a Plug In Chip (eg. Chip Torque) that actually reprograms the ECU without any changes to the wiring.
Do either or both of these chip mods use the same amount of fuel as before or do they increase the fuel input?
I will do so. I have asked a few places for the appropriate K&N air filter and the price ranges from $140 upto about $180. Is there a shop in Melbourne who sell the filter cheaper?
That might be a good idea Mick, could you instruct me in laymans terms on how to go about this?
You need a set of torx screwdrivers, unscrew the electronics from the side of the MAF and spray the two small wires with carby cleaner. Be careful though they are fairly delicate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic
I have had a mechanic I know, bridge the computer and then adjust the timing down to 29 degrees. So far, no pinging and I am running on Optimax. Is there a particular timing setting that is optimum?
Thats the wrong way, 30 is factory, 29 is 1 degree retarded. If you run premium you should be able to advance the timing to around 34-36 without pinging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic
Do either or both of these chip mods use the same amount of fuel as before or do they increase the fuel input?
With most chips, the base fuel ratio can be set the way you want it. Leaning up the engine will give you a slight power increase, I got around 4rwkw last time on the dyno by playing around with fuel mixtures. IMO, chaniging the EEC programing should only really be considered after a lot of mods. It won't give you much on a stock engine but the more mods you have, the better results it will give.
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There are a few things, but not many, that will get much gain for less than $1000 on the V8's . . .
APS Stage II = 267rwkw = 12.16@118.5mph on street tyres 
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