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Desperate - Rough running EL XR8

8K views 47 replies 11 participants last post by  TopGhia 
#1 ·
Hi all. I'm having a prob with my car. It does this weird thing sometimes, where when driving, or even sitting at traffic lights, it will start running really rough. The revs may drop right off, and sometimes the engine will realise and quickly increase revs to make it idle correctly again.

Sometimes, it doesn't correct itself.

The other night driving home, it started doing this again. Real jerky acceleration, to the point where it was just rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) - you get the idea. I could put my foot flat on the accelerator and it wouldn't increase the revs AT ALL. I had to stop and turn the car off. When it restarted, it seemed to be fine.

I have put injector cleaner through. I've replaced spark plugs, and leads with Bosch and Top Gun respectively.

My mechanic now says it may be the AIR FLOW METER, but isn't sure. This item costs $1500!

Any other suggestions, or where, if need be, I could get an aftermarket or rebuild kit for this dumb thing.

If I do have to replace it and spend this much money, is there another similar part that I could get for increased performance since I'm already spending that much money.

I'm desperate. This has been going on for too long. The car's only done 43,000 kms.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
Idle problems are often caused by vaccum leak on one of the hoses on the upper manifold. Also, it could be the ISC, which controlls the idle.

I just got a Pro-M 75mm MAF, the best on the market IMO for $600 whick flows 47% better than stock. Give Mick Webb's SVO motorsport, or herrod a call as well. Although they are in Victoria, I am sure they will have a number of stock MAF's laying around from people who have upgraded.
 
#3 ·
skidaveski said:
Hi all. I'm having a prob with my car. It does this weird thing sometimes, where when driving, or even sitting at traffic lights, it will start running really rough. The revs may drop right off, and sometimes the engine will realise and quickly increase revs to make it idle correctly again.

Sometimes, it doesn't correct itself.

The other night driving home, it started doing this again. Real jerky acceleration, to the point where it was just rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) rev (pause for a second) - you get the idea. I could put my foot flat on the accelerator and it wouldn't increase the revs AT ALL. I had to stop and turn the car off. When it restarted, it seemed to be fine.

I have put injector cleaner through. I've replaced spark plugs, and leads with Bosch and Top Gun respectively.

My mechanic now says it may be the AIR FLOW METER, but isn't sure. This item costs $1500!

Any other suggestions, or where, if need be, I could get an aftermarket or rebuild kit for this dumb thing.

If I do have to replace it and spend this much money, is there another similar part that I could get for increased performance since I'm already spending that much money.

I'm desperate. This has been going on for too long. The car's only done 43,000 kms.

Thanks in advance.


Before believing your mechnic who thinks its the air flow meter, put the car on the dyno which should reveal all problems before you go wasting money on other parts which may not even be faulty
 
#5 ·
Yep, my mechanic does have an EEC V code reader. It is showing no errors or problems whatsoever.

I've spoken to a few other people and they are tending to think it's the same thing as well.

Would a go on the dyno really be able to identify errors of this sort?
 
#6 ·
Hmmm, so much for on-board diagnostics.

Have you got a K&N oiled filter? Sometimes oil from the filter can gunk up the MAF sensor wire. There is a thread/post here somewhere on cleaning the MAF.

I take it your'e using good quality petrol (min 95 RON)
 
#8 ·
When you look into the MAF from the airbox side, you will see the main hole, and then a small under a cm sized hole on the side. The MAF wire sensor is in there. Clean it out with carby cleaner and allow to dry before using it. If you can, remove the sensor from the MAF, and clean it, but you do need a security torx head screwdriver.
 
#11 ·
TopGhia said:
Why pay for it if you can fix it yourself?
he could clean the hotwire sensor on the maf, but if that doesnt work, why would you go replacing paerts that you think may be the problem, but initially they arent!

Best thing is to pay for a dyno so you can pin point the exact problem and start from there.

believe me it will save you money in the long run......
 
#14 ·
I would have thought a good multi meter would be heaps better than dyno.If the mech doesn't know where to back prob to check maf it's debatable he would find it on a dyno??

d. Maf sig
c.Maf return
b.ground
a.vpwr [veh power]

Maf connected backprobe maf sensor connector between maf and battey Neg terminal.. Test results should read 0.2 to 1.5 volts D.C..If not maf may be faulty..hth...Thats for eec 4..hopefully 5 is the same..

Check all ground connections and any air leaks between maf and engine including pvc and dipstick...
 
#15 ·
Sounds exactly like what my EA was doing before I replaced the fuel pump.

Bad idle that the computer tries to make up for and extremely jerky acceleration in 1st and 2nd gears, and no acceleration in 3rd.

I'd be checking the fuel system skidaveski.

Sundeep
 
#16 ·
I once had a problem with my Windsor after a stint on a gravel road. When we hit the highway on the trip home, the car began to shake violently. We thought we'd blown 2 tyres... pulled over and stopped the car, nothing wrong with the tyres. It turned out that just one of the spark plug leads was resting on the engine and that lead was earthing through the insulation. From memory it was cylinder 6 and I was astonished at how unbalanced the thing was with one out (it does depend on which one, I've run it on without cyl 8 before and you can hardly tell)!

Anyway I know it's a long shot, especially since you've replaced the leads, but make sure they are not excessively close to hot and or metallic surfaces.
 
#17 ·
Hmmm thanks for the thought, Sundeep.

Would the fuel pump cause what happened the time where it was idling (sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders - or in limp mode) and I could push the the accelerator to the floor and it would not increase the revs at all.

If the fuel pump was stuffed, would it have the problem all the time? As it happens now, there is no pattern to it. It happens at any time - under acceleration, idling...you name it.

I also found out that CAPA do aftermarket Air Flow sensors for 1/3 of Ford's price. They also say you get 10-15kW power increase at the wheels. If It turns out that is the problem, I know which brand I'll be buying.
 
#19 ·
SKIDAVESKI,
My mate has an EL and had the same problem but not all the time , checked fuel system , plugs , leads , all ok. Eventuallly found out that it had a cracked head and water was somehow working its way in resulting in the same symptoms as you are experiencing. Anyway good luck fixing her up mate, hope she is running sweetly soon!
 
#21 ·
Skidaveski,

I was a bit weary of the problem in my car not being related to the fuel pump as it was intermittent like you said it is in your car. Mine ran fine mainly when it was cold.

I thought it was something worse, but now I have changed the fuel pump in mine, everything is fine.

It'd probably be the fuel pump/fuel system for you too.

Get a second opinion from another mechanic or Ford dealer. It wont cost you anything.

Sundeep
 
#22 ·
Unlikely to be a cracked head in a V8. (Good ole cast iron reliability). I am starting to think fuel system as well. Could be starving for fuel. Has the filter been changed?. Check out the fuel pump as well. Fuel pressure regulator as well.

If you want to check out the plug wiring, take it out somewhere on a really dark night and check for arcing in the engine bay. A light spray of water from one of those plastic spray bottles might help (spray not squirt).
 
#23 ·
Check your fuel relays.I assume you have serviced the fuel filters etc.Check earths and connections..
 
#25 ·
I'm lost for ideas now......could it be ECU?

Sundeep
 
#26 ·
skidaveski said:
I also found out that CAPA do aftermarket Air Flow sensors for 1/3 of Ford's price. They also say you get 10-15kW power increase at the wheels. If It turns out that is the problem, I know which brand I'll be buying.
They would be absolutely dreaming to think a stock EL XR8 will gain 10-15rwkW from an aftermarket MAF. I'd stay away from places that make absurd claims like that..
 
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