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E303 Cam in 5.0 EB

18K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  ebxr8240 
#1 ·
I have bought a FMS E303 cam for my 5.0 EB. Engine is otherwise stock with a 2.5 inch exhaust. I would be keen to hear from anybody running a similar combination or who has some useful tips. I've read all the E303 cam threads, but would welcome more input. I have never cammed an injected engine before, but have plenty of carbed cleveland experience. Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Tris
 
#2 · (Edited)
That cam isn't going to make a huge difference with the stock heads and intake, maybe 10kw, but you will also see a reduction in power down low. Look at changine the heads and intake or at least porting the ones you have while doing the cam change. If you are keeping the stock heads, and still want to use this cam, I would tend to install the cam maybe 4 degrees advanced. This will drop the power band down a couple of hundred rpm to where the heads and intake still actually work.

IMO the cam is one of the last things you should change in the 5.0L EFI winsors.
 
#3 ·
EDXR8 is right. Just changing a cam in a 302 does not do a whole lot of diference, the biggest problem with a windsor is the exhaust ports in the heads. They flow very poorly, and all the cams in the world will not fix this. Get your heads ported, or if you have got the cash, get a new set. Herrod do new GT40P heads from series 3 xr8 complete for $1,100. This in combination with your cam will make a huge improvement.
 
#4 ·
Yep, heads. Quite right. I do intend to port the heads myself. Silly of me to omit that from the original post. I've stuck my finger up an exhaust port and there is a HUGE (air injection?) bump on the port roof. Definately coming off with the die grinder. 3 angle valve job, bowl clean-up, head milling are also part of the plans. The stock engine is also being reconditioned.

I also have a 347 kit in my garage, but that will have to wait a while longer until I can afford the other parts a larger engine will require (good [AFR] heads, intake, MAF, injectors, TB).

To be honest, I actually expected a 220 cam to be a good upgrade for a stock engine based on my cleveland experience. Would I be best off leaving the stock cam in there until I can go the 347 cube route? I did only pay $220 for the cam, so not much of a loss if this is the best thing to do.

Thanks for the valuable input so far. Keep it coming.

Cheers
Tris
 
#5 ·
With ported heads, the E303 will make a fair difference. I would still advance the cam 2-4 degrees to help with the idle and low down power (the E303 is great up high, but fairly ordinary down low). While you are using the die grinder try to port out as much of the intake (lower mainly) as you can. The heads are bad enough, but the intake is shocking. Also depending on how much you are milling from your head, watch the piston to valve clearance, although I think you will be alright.
 
#6 ·
When I port the lower intake, I should make the ovals longer, not wider, right? ie. the metal between the ports should not be made any thinner. How much should I increase oval length? How deep into the lower should I go? Does this description make sense??

My friend does have the aluminium cutters, so this will be easier going than the heads.
 
#7 ·
You mainly want to go wider, the stock intake ports are actually quite high, just not wide. Best idea is to go buy a felpro 1250 intake gasket, and open the ports on both the heads and intake to that size. With the right grinder bit you should be able to port the entire length lower. Pay most attention to the 1st and 5th (two front ones) runners as they are quite badly pinched.
 
#8 ·
Actually with restricted heads like e7's a cam with some duration actually can help to make them breath better as the valve stays open longer.Imo buy the Performer or rpm inlet port your heads and change the maf to a larger one atleast 70 mm..You won't have any problems with piston valve clearance, tho as they say check. The E cam is known for it's mid range power..Fit some real good valve springs, rollmaster timming chain as well..
 
#9 ·
Thanks everyone, this is great stuff. Will I need to make any changes to spark timing? How about idle speed? Do I need to adjust my TPS to a certain voltage if I do? Does my throttle body need a larger hole drilled through it?

Remember, I'm a nubie to a fuelie so don't assume I know that if I do such and such, I also need to do something else as well.

ebxr8240, your signature says Morrinsville NZ. I'm just down the road on the way to Gordonton.

Cheers
Tris
 
#10 ·
You will have to see when you fire it up. The E303 has a bit of a bad idle on 302's so if your TPS is not set correctly you will get bucking and idle problems, so make sure it is below 0.96v. Sometimes if the idle gets too bad, you will have to open up the hole in the tb butterfly, but I think you will be fine with your engine. Once everything is in you will just have to fine tune everything. Get it up on the dyno and check fuel ratios etc.
 
#11 · (Edited)
In deffence to the e303 is since I have fitted Haltech the cam seems almost like a std cam with just a hint of over lap, so I guess it's more of a tuning issue rather than cam. If you could use a eec tuner or twEECer to rise idle settings etc they're o/k. Make massive power with a carb set up. But if I was going to install another cam I'd go for the 2030 Crane cam less duration on inlet and 112 lobe seperation as 110 with e303 which makes it chopy at low rpm.But arguably more power higher rpm than 2030 but still great street cam..
Seeing that I have better flowing heads the extra lift may help also though in a turbo set up things are different...
 
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