E7 porting progress - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

barry_v · 08-08-2004, 02:13

Some of you may know that i am currently porting a set of E7s to install on my LTD. I've finished one head now and im moving onto the other.

top is exhaust stock, bottom is exhaust ported

while i was at it I also replaced the welsh plugs at either end of the heads with brass types. probably just as well i did, as one plug was nearly corroded through in places.

Next I have to replace the valve stem seals and re-install the valves. any comments/suggestions welcome (apart from "Get GT40Ps".. I did this for a bit of fun with very little costs involved.)

MADNC_8 · 08-08-2004, 02:26

looking good there, so what are you going to port them internally as well or just the ports?

and my cars welch plugs were way worse than that ..... corroded right through with cilicone crap poured over em to stop em leaking..... damn previous ownerz

barry_v · 08-08-2004, 02:32

you cant really see it that well in the photo, but I havnt just port matched them - ive gone all the way in. got rid of the EGR port humps and everything too. lol@silicone covered welsh plugs

EDXR8 · 08-08-2004, 02:51

Looking good, are you doing the intake ports as well, they shouldn't need nearly as much work as those exhaust ports did.

barry_v · 08-08-2004, 02:54

yeah ive done the intake ports as well, not much to do there. I could probably go a bit further there but i dont want to risk hitting the pushrod holes :/

TD302 · 08-08-2004, 04:35

How much time do they owe ya so far? I'm 85% through doing a set of 221's. I've gasket matched, pocket ported, straightened up the sharp bend around the pushrod hole as you mentioned, some valve deshrouldeding, a little clean up around the short turn and some chamber work (finished cc is 49.3). I was also a little worried about the thickness around the pushrod too, I didn't go too wild so I wouldn't have any problems. I have spent approx 6-8hrs so far. The 221 had smaller ports then the 289-302 so a bit of time has gone into them. Valve size went from 1.5 inlet to 1.94 and 1.3 exhaust to 1.6. It might pay to have a little play around the bend as this is where you'll improve the swirl in turn gives better low and mid range torque, Windsor heads are known to lack swirl because of the sharpness around the pushrod hole.
Hope this helps as i've done alot of R&D before I started mine
Cheers Brett

barry_v · 08-08-2004, 06:58

I've spent a number of hours on it, mainly because ive never done it before. Ill get the second head done in record time

. I'm sticking with the stock valve sizes (1.78 1.46) mainly because i dont want to spend a lot on these heads. tell me more about creating swirl on the intake, i havnt got any info on this.

TD302 · 08-08-2004, 16:55

The main area is around the pushrod hole. Because of the sharpness of it the air tends to stick to the other wall and dumps it into the cylinder willl little or no swirl at all. Have a look here some good info http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/e7.html

XR8GN3 · 08-08-2004, 20:26

I was planning on porting my E7 heads sometime soon.

I got a quote from a cylinder head place for $500 to do all the porting,
Is this worth it.. I mean the price is ok but if you guys are given it a go I might as well buy the die grinder and have a crack at it myself.

How much more power do you guys expect to get?

EDXR8 · 08-08-2004, 23:09

With E7's I would only attempt porting them yourself. By the time you have payed for them to be done professionally you would be close to the better flowing GT40P heads. Really the E7's are so bad, you can't really stuff them up unless you go through the pushrod hole.