I'm servicing my EL2 XR8 tomorrow in anticipation for the Dyno day on Saturday.
Just wondering what Oil you would recommend for an engine thats dont 140,000km's? It's actually got really clean oil in it, and it doesn't burn it at all, but it's been 15,000km's since the last service, so i'm going to change it..
Next on the list is spark plugs. What are the best plugs to use, and what do you recommend? Will cheap-o NGK do the trick, or go for something a little better?
Basically, i want to put out as much power on Saturday as possible, which is why i wanna do all of this now..
Anyone think of anything else i could do before Saturday to imporve the car's power?
how much money do you have, just kidding, ngk's are fine, and run a semi synthetic, or maybe a fully synthetic, but not to thin try getting a 10w or 15w oil, i personally wouldn't go any thinner than that
The has been covered in the last Zoom mag...Thinner oil like 5/40 grade oil..Small tyres, like 185's on 7" rim, pumped with plenty of pressure, not too much or you'll get wheel spin..32 Lp ??. NGK's are one of the best plugs you can get!!! Because they are cheap doesn't mean they're crapp!!! If you like I"ll buy some and sell the same ones to you for $10 ea if it makes you feel better ???More expensive are longer lasting, NOT better plugs...New cap, rotor and leads if your engine needs them..
A fressh tank of good ole BP hi whatever it's called.. Shell optmax is too hot and cold..Inconsistant! You have serpintine belt but some cars you can disconnect alternator, fan, power steer etc...A smaller crank pulley will help for temp / short term...Or power pulleys where accessaries spin slower...
Buy some ice and put whole bag on inlet manifold so it's as cold as before placing on dyno.. On hot days it makes a difference.. A nice clean air filter..On that subject if you hold filter to top part so it still works then lift the whole top you should gain another 2 or 3 rwkw....hth
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just do oil and plugs, test the std leads for any resistance replace if nessecary but the std items are good, just clean the rotor and the cap and run a good grade fuel, have seen some good gains by lifting the top of the filter box, also get to the dyno day ealy so the car cools right down and try and get on there early when the air has a bit of bite (cold air works wonders for hp)
15000 between oil changes..... 5000 max in any perf aplication especially with thin oils, 10000 max with zillion dollar synthetics. In case you asked.. only reason manufacturers specify longer oil drain intervals is to make the cost of running the car appear cheaper in such guides as RACV tests etc, not due to any magical long lasting engine designs. Oil may look fine but the real workers in the stuff are the additive packs which break down real quick (especially rock oil stuff). I use Redline 15/50 which made a big 'seat of the pants' increase in go from rock oil. Made 250.7HP first ever run on the dyno with no tuning and intake temps of 70degC (no fan in front of car). I recommend this stuff to everyone, is pricey but worth it.
[QUOTE=ebxr8240]The has been covered in the last Zoom mag...
CRAZY QUESTION MAYBE?? but what edition zoom mag was this i don't recall seeing it and subscribe(hope i haven't missed an issue)
i usually read every article
15000 between oil changes..... 5000 max in any perf aplication especially with thin oils, 10000 max with zillion dollar synthetics. In case you asked.. only reason manufacturers specify longer oil drain intervals is to make the cost of running the car appear cheaper in such guides as RACV tests etc, not due to any magical long lasting engine designs. Oil may look fine but the real workers in the stuff are the additive packs which break down real quick (especially rock oil stuff). I use Redline 15/50 which made a big 'seat of the pants' increase in go from rock oil. Made 250.7HP first ever run on the dyno with no tuning and intake temps of 70degC (no fan in front of car). I recommend this stuff to everyone, is pricey but worth it.
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