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3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  ebxr8240 
#1 ·
Heya guys,

I'm servicing my EL2 XR8 tomorrow in anticipation for the Dyno day on Saturday.

Just wondering what Oil you would recommend for an engine thats dont 140,000km's? It's actually got really clean oil in it, and it doesn't burn it at all, but it's been 15,000km's since the last service, so i'm going to change it..

Next on the list is spark plugs. What are the best plugs to use, and what do you recommend? Will cheap-o NGK do the trick, or go for something a little better?

Basically, i want to put out as much power on Saturday as possible, which is why i wanna do all of this now..

Anyone think of anything else i could do before Saturday to imporve the car's power?

Cheers guys.
 
#2 ·
how much money do you have, just kidding, ngk's are fine, and run a semi synthetic, or maybe a fully synthetic, but not to thin try getting a 10w or 15w oil, i personally wouldn't go any thinner than that
 
#3 ·
The has been covered in the last Zoom mag...Thinner oil like 5/40 grade oil..Small tyres, like 185's on 7" rim, pumped with plenty of pressure, not too much or you'll get wheel spin..32 Lp ??. NGK's are one of the best plugs you can get!!! Because they are cheap doesn't mean they're crapp!!! If you like I"ll buy some and sell the same ones to you for $10 ea if it makes you feel better ???More expensive are longer lasting, NOT better plugs...New cap, rotor and leads if your engine needs them..
A fressh tank of good ole BP hi whatever it's called.. Shell optmax is too hot and cold..Inconsistant! You have serpintine belt but some cars you can disconnect alternator, fan, power steer etc...A smaller crank pulley will help for temp / short term...Or power pulleys where accessaries spin slower...
Buy some ice and put whole bag on inlet manifold so it's as cold as before placing on dyno.. On hot days it makes a difference.. A nice clean air filter..On that subject if you hold filter to top part so it still works then lift the whole top you should gain another 2 or 3 rwkw....hth
 
#4 ·
I'm going to run full street trim, full belt system, stock tyres and wheels, little bit more pressure up back..

I use optimax, and love it! :p

What brand leads would you recommend? How much for a new dizzy cap, leads, oil and plugs?
 
#5 ·
just do oil and plugs, test the std leads for any resistance replace if nessecary but the std items are good, just clean the rotor and the cap and run a good grade fuel, have seen some good gains by lifting the top of the filter box, also get to the dyno day ealy so the car cools right down and try and get on there early when the air has a bit of bite (cold air works wonders for hp)
 
#7 ·
i'm using penrite 15w 50 semi synthetic, plugs i'm not sure coz of alloy heads, but do a cross reference with the ngk book when you go to get them.
 
G
#8 ·
15000 between oil changes..... 5000 max in any perf aplication especially with thin oils, 10000 max with zillion dollar synthetics. In case you asked.. only reason manufacturers specify longer oil drain intervals is to make the cost of running the car appear cheaper in such guides as RACV tests etc, not due to any magical long lasting engine designs. Oil may look fine but the real workers in the stuff are the additive packs which break down real quick (especially rock oil stuff). I use Redline 15/50 which made a big 'seat of the pants' increase in go from rock oil. Made 250.7HP first ever run on the dyno with no tuning and intake temps of 70degC (no fan in front of car). I recommend this stuff to everyone, is pricey but worth it.
 
#10 ·
blue66coupe said:
15000 between oil changes..... 5000 max in any perf aplication especially with thin oils, 10000 max with zillion dollar synthetics. In case you asked.. only reason manufacturers specify longer oil drain intervals is to make the cost of running the car appear cheaper in such guides as RACV tests etc, not due to any magical long lasting engine designs. Oil may look fine but the real workers in the stuff are the additive packs which break down real quick (especially rock oil stuff). I use Redline 15/50 which made a big 'seat of the pants' increase in go from rock oil. Made 250.7HP first ever run on the dyno with no tuning and intake temps of 70degC (no fan in front of car). I recommend this stuff to everyone, is pricey but worth it.
EVERY 5000? Jesus, thats quite a bit!
 
G
#11 ·
Point of reference is the days of XK falcs which did maybe 50000 miles and the engines were faarked, needing rebore, pistons, bearings etc with regular 2000 mile oil changes, due to the LOW quality or the oil back then. The only real difference from the oil then to now is the quality and type of additive packs in it.
 
#12 ·
oil itself should be changed ~ every 6 mths, as the acids (created during the combustion) held within the oil attack the bearings and seals, i do mine every 5k for this reason.
 
#14 ·
Well, i got 15w penrite, changed oil filter, got Top gun 8mm leads, new dizzy cap and replaced the rusted out coil.

I pulled 147.5rwkw, here's the dyno graph;



Anyone make comment as to why the power drops off so significantly at 143km/hr? The run was in 4th, and 143km/hr in 4th is only 4300rpm. The guy said it could have been my valves giving up? But if i got the valves fixed, i'd be pushing 155rwkw?? cos the graphy would have kept going up..

Any comment on the AFR?

Cheers guys,
Yagz
 
#15 ·
The drop off in power at 147kph would more likely be that it cant get enough fuel in at this point or basically this is where the power of your car peaks.??..

*Valves giving up* its pretty difficult to make that diagnosis on a Dyno run with the rocker cover on!!!!

I have never seen a falcon 6 or 8 with a perfect AFR except once when they were using a WOLF3D system which had obviously been tunned to the vehicle i.e throttle maps etc.

anyways pretty good run what you running. or is it standard.
 
#16 ·
It's got a cat back exhaust, and 70mm MAF. Thats it. It's the series 2 though, so it's got 185kw stock. They achieved this with the explorer intakes and EL GT Headers.

So yeah, hmm, peak power at 4300rpm? Is that normal? There's plenty of fuel going into her at 4300 as she's not pinging or anything. Plus it's got a pretty good AFR..
 
#17 ·
The heads are where you are being strangled.
I have attached my last club dyno result and the peak power was at 5100 rpm due to the stock cam.
Car is the same as yours but with Trick Flow heads and inlet.Dynoed in third gear.
 
#21 ·
Oh , I forgot to say that your AFR is around where you want it ie no leaner than 13.5 and no richer than 12.5.
The dyno run was done in 3rd as this 1to1 in auto and the manuals were done in 4th that day.At other dyno places, they run autos in 2nd.Dont know why though.Dunno about a speed lomiter on mine as it is ex police and I havent found a limit on it at the track on track days.
As with the power dropping off, have you got 1.7 rockers fitted?As they need to have new valve springs fitted on higher mileage motors as they tend to get valve bounce at higher revs with old springs.
 
#23 ·
One of the reasons Ford engines run rich is the inlet tract won't allow any more air in and the fuel still gets pumped in...At wot the o2 sensers are not working...
 
#25 ·
deankdx said:
ebxr8240 said:
The has been covered in the last Zoom mag...

CRAZY QUESTION MAYBE?? but what edition zoom mag was this i don't recall seeing it and subscribe(hope i haven't missed an issue)
i usually read every article
Zoom #72 page 69...came in package of three...Has red Skyline on cover and Yellow VW...
 
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