Stroker shortblocks. - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

MrLandau · 09-19-2004, 02:22

The last coupe of weeks have seen me out in the shed more than not - getting my 347 bottom end together. For those who are interested in strokers this is the Forged Eagle kit which is an internally ballanced. The final ballancing (with the flexplate and harmonic ballancer) was done by Peter Michaels in Adelaide. The block has been hot tanked and new cam bearings fitted, bored to 0.030" and honed to suit the piston to wall clearances specified by SRP/JE for the forged pistons. The main bearings were inserted into the block and a large amount of oil was spread over the bearings and main cam journals as it was expected that the cranks was going to be turned over a few times.

The crank counterweight came close to the oil pump mounting area - it didn't hit it but was closer than the 0.060" specified so that was the first place marked up for attention.
http://www.fordforums.com/attachment...id=25975&stc=1
The forged kit uses fully floating pistons so a pair of rods and pistons was put together to work out rod clearancing. The SRP/JE pistons use JE spirolocs to retain the wrist pin in the piston (2 per side). Spirolocs - for those who haven't seen them are like a flat coil spring that does 2 turns - and these are used like an internal circlip where larger side loads are applied - and just quietly, they are a bitch to put in (and much worse to remove later as I found out). The Eagle crankshaft is ground with large radius journals and the eagle rods have one side of the big end chamfered - this is the end that goes to the outside of the journal. Don't put your rods on the wrong way or like me - you will find out just how much of a bitch spirolocs are to remove

The first pair of pistons and rods (no rings installed) were installed on the crankshaft with the supplied bearings dripping with oil and the clearances checked. The crank will no even do a full rotation as the rod bolts come to rest on the botom of the cylinder wall.

These areas were marked out and the next journals were checked with the same results (of course). This was continued until all the cylinders had been checked and marked out. The crank, rods and pistons were then removed from the block and all the oil washed off with thinners. The bearing journals (cam and main) were then all masked up, as were the oil pump holes and the die grinder was bought into play...

While I had the die grinder out - I also attacked the oil drainback holes at the back of the lifter valley - smoothing and chamfering the holes. The main oil drainback at the front of the valley that leads to the timing chain/distributor was also ground out to lower the hole closer to the valley floor (to promote better oil drainback and less oil going down through to the reciprocating assembly) and the hole radiused. Then the "3M Flap wheel" went on the die grinder and all the oil return holes were radiused and the inside of the valley polished (overkill but well worth the look). The block was then washed down with thinners again and gently blown down with compressed air.

The bearings were inserted and coated with thick oil, the crank was then reinserted and the main caps bolted back down. The bearing clearances have already been checked on my motor but this is a good time to check yours. The support rings and oil control rings were then fitted to all of the pistons. The 1st and 2nd compression rings were the fileback type so nearly a whole night was spentfiling the rings go get the nessicary 0.020" top ring and 0.022" 2nd ring clearance for each cylinder. Once the first and second ring clearances were done on the cylinder, the rings were installed on the piston (making sure they are the right way up and the ring gaps set 180' apart) and the rod/piston installed into the cylinder and the rod bolted to the crank. Once all the rods were installed on the crank the oilpump and pickup were installed and checked for clearance. Guess what - more work to be done here with the die grinder as the front counterweight gets awful close in a few areas. Now I am just waiting for the main girdle to arrive (It comes the same day I go back to work) so I can check the clearances on that. Stay tuned for the continuing sage.

A big thanks needs to go out to Barry V who spent a very long night doing spirolocs and installing rings for me - cheers Barry - you get second drive

zc347 · 09-19-2004, 03:50

good stuff! makes me want to get my 347 done. i'm just waiting on one part to arrive before i can build mine.

psycho chicken · 09-20-2004, 03:25

The big question.....a rough price?

barry_v · 09-20-2004, 04:16

spirolocks are a C U N T.

however, if you need a hand assembling the rest of it dont hesitate to tell me. Its a pleasure to work with such beautiful engine components.. makes a change from rebuilding mitsi diesels.

decided which way to go with the heads yet?

EB 5.6 · 09-20-2004, 15:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry_v

spirolocks are a C U N T.

however, if you need a hand assembling the rest of it dont hesitate to tell me. Its a pleasure to work with such beautiful engine components.. makes a change from rebuilding mitsi diesels.

decided which way to go with the heads yet?

Yes, spirolocs are ordinary.

Use a pair of flat blade jewellers screwdrivers. you wont look back.

MrLandau · 09-20-2004, 19:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by psycho chicken

The big question.....a rough price?

Rough price...
Eagle competition rotation assembly (crank, rods, pistons, pins, rings and bearings) - $2800
Hot tank and cam bearings fitted - $280
Bore and hone - $190
TCI SFI approved flexplate (neutral ballance) - $250
Romac alloy/steel harmonic ballancer (neutral ballance) - $330
Ballancing - $360
The labour involved in clearancing and filing the rings back,etc would be up around 20-30 hours at a guestimation. It certainly isn't something I would like to pay for.
Shane

psycho chicken · 09-21-2004, 03:11

Clearancing and filing the rings?

Sorry, not up with the exact terms of building an engine. Laymen's terms?

Sounds a lot cheaper than I thought really. Did you get the kit here or was it imported?

barry_v · 09-21-2004, 03:26

clearancing = making sure nothing hits, due to the longer stroke you have to grind various parts of the block away to clear the crank/conrod bigends

piston rings when positioned in the bore must have an exact gap allowing for expansion when hot. too big of a gap and you'll lose compression, too small and you've got an engine to rebuild..

most rings come pre-gapped to suit the bore size, but these particular rings were of the file-down type where you have to set the gap prior to installation.

ebxr8240 · 09-21-2004, 03:40

Engine assembly like this can cost as much as $3k esp if O ring heads and copper gasgets pluss some head overhaul etc....

psycho chicken · 09-21-2004, 04:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry_v

clearancing = making sure nothing hits, due to the longer stroke you have to grind various parts of the block away to clear the crank/conrod bigends

piston rings when positioned in the bore must have an exact gap allowing for expansion when hot. too big of a gap and you'll lose compression, too small and you've got an engine to rebuild..

most rings come pre-gapped to suit the bore size, but these particular rings were of the file-down type where you have to set the gap prior to installation.

Ah makes perfect sense now. Clearancing sounds like fun.....