My 5.0 is feeling a little lethargic lately and I'd like to advance the timing a little to see if it wakes up!
The motor only has 50k on it and has fairly new leads, plugs, filters, dizzy cap and rotor and generally goes fairly hard. Unfortunately, the 02 sensors, cats and related items have 260k on them....:(
Any comments on advancing the timing? I'm assuming it's a little retarded as the throttle response is soft and the idle fairly lumpy, lumpier than normal for the cam I have in it. Fuel economy is a bit thirstier around town too. I recently cleaned the MAF hot wires to little effect.
I'm just going to use a timing light. Should I simply advance it until it pings under load then back off a touch? I've tried the base timing method previously, but it didn't want to go into diagnostic mode, maybe due to ChipTorque having fiddled with the ECU?
Cheers lads, Mike
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'We drew a line in the sand. No one would kick sand in our faces again!' G.P.
EF Fairmont Ghia, Bordeaux Purple, 5.0 Windsor, Crane cam, ChipTorque modded ECU, full XR bodykit, 16 inch XR8 alloys, 2.5 inch dropped Tickford suspension, full grey leather trim with chrome, woodgrain and lots of lights, climate control, ABS, Premium sound, trip computer, power everything
Nah, I was invited (Thanks blueoval) but just couldn't make it today. Bring on summer cruises!
Thanks for the links Aaron. Any other comments?
Mike
__________________
'We drew a line in the sand. No one would kick sand in our faces again!' G.P.
EF Fairmont Ghia, Bordeaux Purple, 5.0 Windsor, Crane cam, ChipTorque modded ECU, full XR bodykit, 16 inch XR8 alloys, 2.5 inch dropped Tickford suspension, full grey leather trim with chrome, woodgrain and lots of lights, climate control, ABS, Premium sound, trip computer, power everything
You really need to put it into diagnostic mode, otherwise you will just stuff the EEC around. Once in diagnostic mode, it will totally disregard the chip anyway. Just try 4 degrees advances if you run PULP or 2 degrees advanced if you run standard unleaded, and make sure it doesn't ping.
Thanks Grant. We have to catch up for a yarn soon. I want to go for a ride in the XR!
I recall you saying that the motor RPM goes up in diag. mode. Mine wouldn't do that at all, but would it still be in diagnostic mode anyway? It STILL won't start without throttle BTW!
If the mark on the block/dizzy coment is correct, I can still check if the thing is at least on standard 30 degrees.
Mike
__________________
'We drew a line in the sand. No one would kick sand in our faces again!' G.P.
EF Fairmont Ghia, Bordeaux Purple, 5.0 Windsor, Crane cam, ChipTorque modded ECU, full XR bodykit, 16 inch XR8 alloys, 2.5 inch dropped Tickford suspension, full grey leather trim with chrome, woodgrain and lots of lights, climate control, ABS, Premium sound, trip computer, power everything
I cant remember if you have already tried this, but if I were you I would just rip the chip out of there and see how it goes then.
When you put it into diagnostic mode, it should rev upto 2000rpm and stay there for a while, otherwise it is not working. Just make sure it is the 5th pin in from the left on the top row, and earth it to a good earth otherwise it won't go into diagnostics mode.
Otherwise, I guess you could just start to advance it a couple of degrees at a time until it pings under load and that is probably around 4-8 degrees advanced, and then back it off a tad.
I looked at the ECU quite a while back and noticed that there wasn't a chip sticking out of the lower port at all! I asked Gil at Road & Track and he said that the actual board had been modified, negating the need for a plug in chip! It's actually one of Lachlan's own boards- where my original is is anyone's guess. I'm still thinking that this ECU is preventing the car from starting and idling without throttle when cold. Anyone out there have a EEC5 I could plug in for a few minutes to check?
I gave the dizzy a *slight* turn this morning without the timing light. It looked to be spot on 30 degrees by the mark on the block. It seemed a little harder to start (haven't turned up the idle yet), but I have noticed quite a bit more torque. Fuel econ seems OK. I'll try advancing it a little more and see how things go.
Mike
__________________
'We drew a line in the sand. No one would kick sand in our faces again!' G.P.
EF Fairmont Ghia, Bordeaux Purple, 5.0 Windsor, Crane cam, ChipTorque modded ECU, full XR bodykit, 16 inch XR8 alloys, 2.5 inch dropped Tickford suspension, full grey leather trim with chrome, woodgrain and lots of lights, climate control, ABS, Premium sound, trip computer, power everything
I cant remember if you have already tried this, but if I were you I would just rip the chip out of there and see how it goes then.
When you put it into diagnostic mode, it should rev upto 2000rpm and stay there for a while, otherwise it is not working. Just make sure it is the 5th pin in from the left on the top row, and earth it to a good earth otherwise it won't go into diagnostics mode.
Otherwise, I guess you could just start to advance it a couple of degrees at a time until it pings under load and that is probably around 4-8 degrees advanced, and then back it off a tad.
afaik, for EF's the 5th from left on the top row is the Data Out pin - You should be able to get diagnostic mode by linking top left and bottom left. Once you have done this, start her up, and as discussed, should rev up to 1400 > 1600 rpm for a few mins. Checking timing when not in this mode doesn't really help you out much . . .
What fuel do you run ( std / premium / opti-synergy ? ) This will vary how far you can get away with advancing . . .
I just put the timing light on mine at idle the timing was at 15 degrees. When i put it in diagnostic mode it was 32 degrees (2 degrees advanced). I know its not the best way to do it, but if you can't get it into diagnostic mode, set it to 15 degrees at idle and you should be quite close.
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