Hi guys, My car=EF XR8. Slushbox and only has exhaust modded. 108,000K's.
Of late, at the lights the idle sits on around 700 rpm and feels like a lumpy cam. (I wish). Put in neutral, no load, and starts to idle as per normal. When i give it say, 70% acceleration it feels a bit sluggish to start and then it takes off.
Not being an expert, i think in basics. My thoughts are the fuelfilter. The car used to get serviced at the dealer, though now i do a bit of it myself. Oil and filter, brakes etc.
I cannot recall if the fuel filter was ever changed as i have never done it myself. Had new plugs put in when it was dyno'd some time ago and put new quality leads in myself.
Being the original owner from new, i know nothing has been done to the engine.
If anyone had a simular problem or has an idea what may be the cause, please gives us a few pointers.
I have done a few searches and cannot find what i'm looking for.
Start with fuel filter, new spark plugs, air filter and a general tune up. Make sure TPS voltage is checked along with base timing and idle speed, if the idle speed is set too low, the EEC will try and compensate by using the IAC to increase idle but this can make it a bit erratic.
Having 100,000km on it, you may be up for a new set of spark plug leads, also make sure number 5 and 6 leads (1st 2 on the passenger side) are separated. There is a tendancy to cross fire, as I recently found out if they are too close. Also check the earthing connections on the battery as a loose earth can cause unstable idle too.
EDXR8, would plugs be a intermittant or constant problem? Just now found my dyno sheet at which time the plugs were last changed. The leads were changed a short while ago, replacing them with Bosch gas leads. Bit costly, but worked a treat. Air filter is K&N, serviced regularly.
Battery terminals are spot on as they were cleaned the other day.
Working down the list, the fuel filter, base timing idle speed and plug-leads 5 & 6 need attention. This atleast gives me an idea where to start. I stopped getting the dealer to do the timing since fitting the extractors and twin system as the dyno gave me another 9 ponies through adjustment. Suppose i will need to take it to a dyno place for a tune up sooner rather than later.
Sounds like a tuning thing then. I would just set the idle speed, make sure you set it with the IAC disconnected, and then set the base timing to somewhere around 34 degrees unless it pings then back it off gradually towards 30. If it still has problems, then test the TPS and other sensors, also if you are able to run the EEC test sequenc to give you any fault codes stored in the EEC.
Try the good ole, spray the maf hot wire senser to clean it.With brake cleaner etc Key off. Don't physically touch this wire, its very fragile and expensive to replace..
Check that the pvc hasn't come out behind back of inlet or any other hoses.
Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic!
Tuned & maintained by "Peppertree Perfmormance". Dart block, Scat 4340 steel crank, Custom C.P pistons.Oliver rods.. Mal Wood twin plate clutch.. Twin SC61/2's,482 rwkw/ 645 rwhp..
Passengers, myocardial infarction material..
ebxr8240, those are the jobs that fall in the realm of my mechanical knowledge of the modern engines. I recall that advise from before, just could not remember the part about using brake cleaner.
Few weeks ago we changed out all the rotors and pads. Plenty of brake cleaner left.
Yor advise then was good too,i recall. "First you have to take the wheels off". Hehehehe.
Today is funeral day for my son's best mate that got killed on the Kwinana Freeway last week, so i'll leave it till the weekend. On a happier note, sat night is topfuel drags and sunday is V8supercars on tv.
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