priobe

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and hoping you can help me with a low oiling problem. Here is the motor with the specs.

Ford FE 427 C5AEH 65-66 side oiler solid lifter motor
Crank C9AE 6303 Nascar Steel crank with wider journals 1.835
Rods C70AE Nascar rods
Question 1. Does anyone know where I could get the bearings for this?
Clearances 2.2 - 2.6 Rods
1.8 - 2.2 Mains ( I might have this information reversed

This motor has low pressure with power drill on pump with a max of 28 psi. I have read post which states to look inside distributor to see if the plug has been forgotten and I do not see it. I have attached a picture so you can see the front of the block.

Question 2.

Is there away to look from the bottom to see if the bypass was installed with the pan off.

The oil pump was inspected and it looks great. No signs of debri in the pump. I also checked the plunger inside the pump and it is free and has tension on it.

Is there a difference between solid lifter block and hydraulic block.

Any recommendations as to why the oil pressure is low?

Please help with any suggestions.

Thanks

Attached Images

front_427.jpg (23.8 KB, 13 views)

FFR428

Hmmm I thought the guys on CC would have nailed this down for ya. One thing that comes to mind is the Nascar crank. Does it have screw in plugs or press in plugs with the snap rings? Being it's a crossdrilled crank it does retain some pressure and could be a source for a loose or weeping plug and a loss of pressure if so. The OEM fit on the press in plugs was horrible and later changed to screw in style. I see some ref to press in plugs in the old OHO newsletter. I'd be all over that as it;s easy to check. There are two types of rod bearings. Blue and Red. 2.5907-2.5911 for the red and 2.5911-2.5915 for the blue. I see both of these on ebay from time to time and are only for std size cranks. There were no undersize NASCAR bearings for those cranks. That said you can have the tangs in the rods re cut on the opposite side to accept std FE bearings. Guys have done that with good results. There was no difference between the solid and hyd lifter SO blocks other than the hyd lifter passages being drilled on the 68 and later blocks. You should be able to see the relief valve inside the block with the pan off. Might be hard but doable. IIRC you are running syn oil right? Go back to a good dino oil like Valvoline VR1. So who built this engine and what rod bearings did he use?

G.

FFR428

After reading all the CC posts I'd try the original adapter first and see if you get better results. It could be your remote plumbing as they mention. The one guy had a good idea to remove the motor mount and slightly raise the engine to clear and fit the stock adapter. I would really try that first. If things are the same you've eliminated the plumbing mystery being the cause. Then you can move on to the other things. And as advised there I also would not drive the car with the pressure that low. At idle keep the rpms up a bit as that solid cam likes to be splashed with oil.