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I've seen several references to restricting oil flow to the rockers on FE's but can't find an article on how to do it. I've got a 428 in my old Model A Coupe that I rebuilt last year that has the dreaded low oil pressure at idle syndrome. I don't want to go with a high volume pump and larger oil pan unless I have to as ground clearance could be a problem. TIA
I've have seen two diferent types, one type is tap the hole and screw in the restrictor and the other is a like a galley plug with a hole and you just punch it in.
As for your low oil pressure some engines just have low preassure, what was the pressure before you rebuilt the motor? How well did you clean the motor and parts before putting it back together? It could be a number of different things....did you prime the engine with oil before starting, is the oil pump and pick up tube clean, is the oil filter new (I prefer the motocraft FL1-A), are all the passages trough the block free of debree, the crank and the bearings....and so on...it's got to be completly clean for good oil pressure.
That my opinon though
Precision Oil Pumps I believe Doug sells a kit. Holley jets more or less do the same thing. He's the man for oil pumps too! Tell him what you have and he'll build a pump for it. Around $80 for a fully blueprinted pump. Well worth the $$$ once you figure what these engine cost. His site does not list half of the things he sells so it's best to call. You can always go for a full sump FT oil pan and pickup. Pretty cheap if there are no crossmembers in the way. Or any of the kicked out T style pans if header clearance allows. Both have stock depth so no ground clearance issues. On the more expensive side there are the Cobra style Avaid pans with all the bells and whistles. The first and best FE oil mod is a GOOD oilpan. Stock pans are marginal for stock engines.
I bought the engine out of an old T Bird but never heard it run. It was professionally rebuilt, hot tanked, cam bearings, the usual procedure, .030 overbore, crank was just polished as it was in spec. all new parts. Has new Edelbrock heads with nos adj. rockers and pushrods. It was primed and I used a new standard pressure Melling oil pump (as I'd heard that a high volume would suck the pan dry).The more I drive it the more the pressure decreases at Idle. Only have a a couple hundred miles on it now. I've read the various posts about the FE's having low oil pressure and talked to several folks that fool around with them trying to get a consensus on how low is "low". Didn't want to spend a bunch of time and money chasing a "gremlin" that really wasn't there. But also didn't want to ruin an engine that just needed a high volume pump and a bigger pan.
Thanks for the info.
I'm willing to bet it's excessive clearance at the main/rod bearings causing this. I have a old GMC truck with the same problem. Had the 305 rebuilt and the machine shop cut corners and did not send the crank out to be turned. Sure enough when I fired it up, 45psi idle oil pressure then after reaching normal operating temp 15psi at idle. Same problem I had when I pulled the engine. I ended up pulling the pan and bolting up a Melling HV oil pump and started using SAE30 which brought the pressure to 60+ idle at cold and around 20 hot.
The old timers used to say a minimum of 10psi of oil pressure for every 1,000rpm.
Idling at 20 lbs is normal for a stock motor.....when you rev the motor does the pressure come up to 40-60 lbs. if so your engine is operating within peramiters. 20 lbs is a lot of pressure, so DON'T think your engine is going tits up. If your not hearing any ticking or knocking etc. I wouldn't worry to much about.
If your engine loses oil pressure at higher RPM's that's when you need to pay attention to your motor and find the problem.
Well The simple fact is it may be a fresh new rebuilt motor,...but there are steps to take in ensuring good oil pressure. One is making sure there is enough cleearence between the cam and the bearings (.002-.004) to have enough oil flow. It's always a must to use bearing that match up to the cam. Another is carving out the main bearings at the oil hole to match the hole in the cap so that there will be plenty of flow. another is making sure you use a new rocker assembly, esspecialy the rocker shaft, if it's worn out you get low pressure and you'll also fill up the top of the head with oil and possibly run the pan dry. And always make sure the block is cleaned with soap and water, as many time as it takes to get all debris out of the block, wich in turn may cause low oil pressure.
Good oil pressure is a combination of new parts and clean engine passage ways!
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