Is it possible to remove 0,1 inch of this heads (D3VE-A2A)? because if it can, than we can reduce the chamber of 99cc back to 72cc.
Please let me now!
I dont know, but that sounds like a lot of metal- at best, intake manifold will need cut also- I'd lean towards finding a more suitable set of castings.
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I dont know, but that sounds like a lot of metal- at best, intake manifold will need cut also- I'd lean towards finding a more suitable set of castings.
Oké but I live in Holland, and it is not so easy to find heads with chambers of 72cc.
So if I can something like my proposal, it is a lot easier, and the valve’s are laying higher in this heads then the older one. And you are right about the intake manifold. It is for my only the question, if I remove 0.1 inch from the heads, are the heads then strong enough? Ore have someone else experience with it?
Even if you could cut down your D3VE heads to 72cc's, you would have nothing comparable to a cobra jet cylinder head. The intake and exhaust port architecture is different and inferior on the D3VE. The intake manifold geometry will be different and you will need to also shave the manifold or intake side of the heads accordingly. I'm not sure, but you may be playing with spark plug location a little more than you should.
If it's 72 cc's that you want, you are better off finding some early-style heads, a la C8VE, C9VE or D0VE that are already at 76 cc's from the factory. That's a reduction of 20cc's from the D3VE's and 80% of your final goal. The final 4 cc's can be compensated for with pistons or even just deck height.
D3VE's probably should not be shaved more that .050" of an inch MAXIMUM. That would reduce an uncut pair ot D3's from about 97 cc's to perhaps 85-88cc's. If you do this, you will need to also shave the intake sides of your heads .035-.040".
Even if you could cut down your D3VE heads to 72cc's, you would have nothing comparable to a cobra jet cylinder head. The intake and exhaust port architecture is different and inferior on the D3VE. The intake manifold geometry will be different and you will need to also shave the manifold or intake side of the heads accordingly. I'm not sure, but you may be playing with spark plug location a little more than you should.
If it's 72 cc's that you want, you are better off finding some early-style heads, a la C8VE, C9VE or D0VE that are already at 76 cc's from the factory. That's a reduction of 20cc's from the D3VE's and 80% of your final goal. The final 4 cc's can be compensated for with pistons or even just deck height.
D3VE's probably should not be shaved more that .050" of an inch MAXIMUM. That would reduce an uncut pair ot D3's from about 97 cc's to perhaps 85-88cc's. If you do this, you will need to also shave the intake sides of your heads .035-.040".
Paul
Thank you for your information Paul,
but way I can only mill 0.05" from the head, is this head not strong enough??
Or have I then other problems??
I have never measured, but I would estimate the cylinder head mating surface to be perhaps 0.300"-0.400" thickness before any machining since delivered from Ford. The variation in the estimated thickness comes from potential core-shift and also because in some places there are water jackets and other places there may not be water jackets.
The cylinder heads are applied to the cylinder block with a final torque of 140 lbs/ft. I can't say for sure, but you may want to consider whether you want to risk going so thin as to cause your heads to crack when bolted to your engine. I really don't know for sure how likely this is, and it may not even be a factor in your proposed modification.
The D3VE combustion chamber is about 0.100" deeper in the cylinder head than the early-style castings. If you cut 0.100" from the chamber-side of the heads, you will need a new set of pushrods for sure, so as to restore rocker arm geometry. Further, your intake manifold will no longer fit to those heads, unless you either machine the manifold so as to mate properly to the heads OR machine the intake-side of the heads after machining the combustion chamber side. Can your manifold be machined at the intake flanges by .100 on each side? Is there enough material? Personally, I think it is better to machine the intake sides of the heads at the same time you machine the combustuion chamber side, because this way only one engine component (the heads) has been bastardized, and the intake will still work on the modified heads and unmodified heads.
BUT, the general rule of thumb is that if you shave .040" from the combuston chamber side, you should also shave .040" from the intake side so as to keep everything dimensiionally correct. But what if you need to shave 0.100" from the intake side? Will the intake manifold bolt holes still be deep enough to accomodate the bolts? I don't know....
All this modifying will not only be experimental, it will be expensive. And the results will be nothing better than simply buying a pair of early-style castings. Also, this expensive modification may not even work and the heads may be rendered useless. At least D3VE heads are plentiful...
The risk is yours. I'd sure like to hear how this works out...
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remove 0,1 inch from D3VE-A2A heads
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