6901 Hookers seem to fit best, as mentioned before.
Others of the same basic design work as well.
From experience, Tri-Ys DO NOT WORK, so don't even go there.
Most shortys will not work that I know of. Doug Thorley is introducing a set soon that will. They have been working with the Maverick specific board to get things right.
Column shift auto or manual is out of the question per manufacturers, however some guys have gotten creative with bending the auto column linkage and made it work. 3 on the tree will probably not work with tweaking IMO.
Floor shift auto or manual is fine. However, the Z bar MUST come out, then be reinstalled with the headers as the tubes go around the Z bar. It's pretty tight, but not bad as some might say.
They haven't tried to put big tubes on a 351c Maverick... If they had, they would say the 302 headers are a walk in the park!
They really are easy, just that you need to have the engine blocked up on the frame mounts to raise it, then jack the entire front of the car up.
Get the header gaskets with the 2 outside bolt holes slotted.
Then weasel the headers up, put in the two outside bolts, only a thread or two.
Now drop in the gasket. The slots will fall right on top of the 2 bolts.
Now lower the car, after you do both sides with the 2 outside bolts.
With the car lowered and the headers in place with 2 bolts, the rest is easy.
Just remember not to run the bolts in more than a thread or so.
Now put all the rest of the bolts in. ONLY A COUPLE THREADS!
When all 16 bolts are in, slowly thread them in further by finger.
You might have to go half way with all, then go back and go the other half, but it's worth it. Some of the bolts are behind the tubes, so if you tighten some prematurely, they will bind on the tubes. This is why you put them all in in stages, rather than tightening one all the way and proceeding to the next.
Fwiw: header bolts with 3/8" heads work best. 7/16" heads are okay, but a little tighter on a couple of tubes. 12 pt heads or allen type cap screws do not work. Studs also do not work well in this application.
After all the bolts are finally down snug, you can tighten them one by one.
Run the car in for a while, then retighten.
Pretty obvious, but you can lower your engine off the blocks between the mounts now too!
If you have PS, the drop arm must be used too... No big deal, and cheap.