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Old 02-22-2006, 19:29   #1 (permalink)
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Headers

Hey all, I have a 75 Mercury Comet with a 302 and I have been thinking of getting headers and a dual exhaust. I haven't done much research but I know that it is already pretty cramped under the hood. Have any of you put headers on your Comet/Maverick? If so, could you tell me where you got them from?
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Old 04-09-2006, 12:06   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

Hooker 6901 works with a floor shift, not sure about column. Also, you have to use a drop bracket for the power steering.
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:44   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

hi i have a 75 stallion 302 with 3 speed on the floor had too remove all the cluch linkage replaced with a cable<nice>petal pressure is really soft even with 300lb cluch hayes thats your main issue. because of your gas tank both tailpipes exit on the right side next to gas tank
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:59   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangman94
hi i have a 75 stallion 302 with 3 speed on the floor had too remove all the cluch linkage replaced with a cable<nice>petal pressure is really soft even with 300lb cluch hayes thats your main issue. because of your gas tank both tailpipes exit on the right side next to gas tank
What kind of cable setup did you get for your clutch? I'm getting ready to change a 71 Grabber from a c4 to 4 spd toploader. I have everything to do it with but I like the idea of the cable over the linkage. Can you give me any insight?
Thanks, Ray
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:28   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

We just put headers on a Maverick, and it is work! You have to jack up the drivers side to get the header on, and it is tight all around! Count on a lot of scraped knuckles, and keep a handy list of expletives around! It is worth the effort though! When we started it with open headers it took my wife about 3 seconds to come out of the house and tell us to turn it off ! Oh, you have to remove all the shift brackets and linkage on a column shift auto, otehrewise the engine won't set right.
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:42   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

Hi they sell the cable as a conversion kit thru jegs.com $68.00 american.i will also upload pics of installation.later
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:44   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

also im putting my stallion on ebay hopefully soon
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Old 08-23-2006, 22:51   #8 (permalink)
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Shorties

these will work with most aftermarket heads and theres no need to hammer them in like the long tubes




heres the link to the dicussion on the mav/comet forums

Ford Maverick / Mercury Comet Forums - New Doug Thorley mav/comet shorties
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:29   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Headers

6901 Hookers seem to fit best, as mentioned before.
Others of the same basic design work as well.
From experience, Tri-Ys DO NOT WORK, so don't even go there.
Most shortys will not work that I know of. Doug Thorley is introducing a set soon that will. They have been working with the Maverick specific board to get things right.
Column shift auto or manual is out of the question per manufacturers, however some guys have gotten creative with bending the auto column linkage and made it work. 3 on the tree will probably not work with tweaking IMO.
Floor shift auto or manual is fine. However, the Z bar MUST come out, then be reinstalled with the headers as the tubes go around the Z bar. It's pretty tight, but not bad as some might say.
They haven't tried to put big tubes on a 351c Maverick... If they had, they would say the 302 headers are a walk in the park!
They really are easy, just that you need to have the engine blocked up on the frame mounts to raise it, then jack the entire front of the car up.
Get the header gaskets with the 2 outside bolt holes slotted.
Then weasel the headers up, put in the two outside bolts, only a thread or two.
Now drop in the gasket. The slots will fall right on top of the 2 bolts.
Now lower the car, after you do both sides with the 2 outside bolts.
With the car lowered and the headers in place with 2 bolts, the rest is easy.
Just remember not to run the bolts in more than a thread or so.
Now put all the rest of the bolts in. ONLY A COUPLE THREADS!
When all 16 bolts are in, slowly thread them in further by finger.
You might have to go half way with all, then go back and go the other half, but it's worth it. Some of the bolts are behind the tubes, so if you tighten some prematurely, they will bind on the tubes. This is why you put them all in in stages, rather than tightening one all the way and proceeding to the next.
Fwiw: header bolts with 3/8" heads work best. 7/16" heads are okay, but a little tighter on a couple of tubes. 12 pt heads or allen type cap screws do not work. Studs also do not work well in this application.
After all the bolts are finally down snug, you can tighten them one by one.
Run the car in for a while, then retighten.
Pretty obvious, but you can lower your engine off the blocks between the mounts now too!
If you have PS, the drop arm must be used too... No big deal, and cheap.
Good luck
Dave
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