I need your expert opinions...this is a carb on my 66 Ford Galaxie 500, which has a 352 and automatic. The carb may have been replaced, but one thing is for sure and that is that there is no tag or manufacturers name on it anywhere!
Here are 4 hi rez shots of the carb, please help me out and tell me what you think it is. I need to rebuild it and cant do so until I have id'ed the carb make and model.
By golly, I think you nailed that one on the head, Bert! Thanks a ton!!
Heres another question for you on this carb...
The engine is a 352, we now know that the carb is most likely the 4100. The car will NOT start unless I get out and hand nudge the choke closed by manipulating the throttle linkage, and it will NOT close all the way unless I do move the throttle linkage.
If I attempt to close the choke by hand (with the black auto choke cover removed, of course) it will not go all the way closed, it remains open about 3/8ths of an inch. When I do move the throttle linkage and the choke butterfly at the same time, it will go closed. Then I get in and it will start.
Or, I can just spray starting fluid in the carb and start it but it dies when it runs out of fluid and wont start until I either, a) spray more in, or B) adjust the choke closed.
Any thoughts on if there are mechanical problems with the linkage? I dont know these particular carbs well at all so I am up for input.
There's a step cam that holds the throttle open depending on how far the choke is closed. That may be where the problem lies. I'd have to see it first hand to see what's happening. This may help you figure it out. Classic Inlines - Autolite 4100 Service Manual
Bert, you were probably right again sir! Here is an email I got back from a guy that rebuilds these carbs for a living:
Sounds like the fast idle screw is holding up your linkage; if it is adjusted in too far, it will cause exactly what you're experiencing. It is located on the choke side of the carb, and is on a lever on the throttle shaft. If you adjust it out, it should fix the issue you are having. Try adjusting it out 1 1/2 turns and see if that works, if not, 1 1/2 more etc.
Let me know if this works for you. I can rebuild your carb if you like; it will look and perform like it came from the factory!
Thanks, Scott
I've had many of these carbs and rebuilt 100rds. Not a very good preformance carb.
It's a street carb and if set up properly, and yours is not it's not too bad. i'd replace it
with a Holley carb. Yes that is a Ford Autolite. Not quite junk but close. DO NOT throw
that carb in the trash. Ford restoreres will pay big bucks for that carb.
I adjusted the idle screw on the choke mechanism and it solved my problems. Then I took a 50 mile drive and enjoyed the car and the beautiful day. It ran perfect, started fine, not a care in the world!
Then I came home and changed the oil, added fluid to the transmission, and it wouldnt start. I will putz with it tomorrow am and see what I can see.
I had a hard time starting it and I can't help but wonder if the accelerator pump isn't going bad.
I had to pump and pump the throttle, 15x or more to get it to start, then when it did, it died and I had to do that 8x or more to get it going. Then it ran and stayed running but isn't that an indication its days are numbered?
Does it hesitate when you accelerate? Have you looked down the carb and opened the throttle to see if fuel is sprayed from the jets? (This is with the engine off.)
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
