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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-22-05, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

Ok,
Ive been trying for the past week to seperate the inner tierod from the centrerod - and it just simply wont budge.
Ive tried hammering it, i bought a 2prong fork specially made for tierod seperation, and it didnt work.
The tierod is just jammed in there and wont even move.
Is there some special trick to doing it or what?
What other choices do i have?

Matt


1966 Blue Ford Galaxie - 4Dr Sedan, Pwr Steering, 302 Windsor, Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, 650 Holley Race Custom , Crow Cam 15666, Rollmaster Camgear, Heads Ported, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Billet Dizzy, Crane Energizer Roller Rockers, C4 - Stage 2 Shift Kit, HiStall 2500rpm, B&M Z-Gate Shifter, XY GT Radiator, 2.92 9" Diff, Dual Thermofans, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, RCI 16gal Fuel Cell.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-23-05, 03:01 AM
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Re: Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

Ha Ha Ha Ha...I hate that !!! You just have to persevere.Make sure you use a descent Hammer,at least a 4 Pounder.What ever you do,don't try and hit the threaded part as they are tapered.You can bash the side of the Drag Link where the Tie-Rod goes through as hard as you can ,but if you are a bit week or a bad shot with a Hammer then that probably won't work for you.You can also try taking the Drag Link out and trying to remove the Inner Tie Rod's in a Vice or something...Goodluck and keep trying!!
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-23-05, 08:08 PM
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Re: Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

You need a steel, such as another hammer on the opposite side held against the tie-rod and then hit with a blow with the other hammer. Also a little good quality penetrating oil helps too. Several blows and it should separate. The steel or other hammer held against the tie-rod should be of equal or heavier weight. Hope you slacked off the nut.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-24-05, 07:57 PM
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Re: Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

the guy that aligned my 65 for the first time in 20+ years had a neat way to loosen stubborn stuck parts- just a air chisel with a round/flat pad on the end- hold a hammer on one side as a dolly, hit opposite with the airchisel, and 'pop'. I'm sure alignment guys do this all the time, but I'd never heard of it...as the airhammer blows are short stroke, probably A LOT LESS chance of bending anything too.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-24-05, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

Whats an airhammer? Run off a compressor or something?
Also how do u mean hole a hammer on the other side as dolly? on the tierod or the draglink/

1966 Blue Ford Galaxie - 4Dr Sedan, Pwr Steering, 302 Windsor, Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, 650 Holley Race Custom , Crow Cam 15666, Rollmaster Camgear, Heads Ported, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Billet Dizzy, Crane Energizer Roller Rockers, C4 - Stage 2 Shift Kit, HiStall 2500rpm, B&M Z-Gate Shifter, XY GT Radiator, 2.92 9" Diff, Dual Thermofans, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, RCI 16gal Fuel Cell.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-25-05, 07:07 PM
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Re: Inner Tierod Serparation - HOW

The method I suggested works too but not as good as an air hammer, cause the air hammer can give a lot of blows per second. Ya ok ford4v429, thats the word I was looking for (dolly) or a good 3 or 4 lb hammer (or any block of steel) used as a dolly held against the tie rod and then hit it with the other hammer of at least equal weight on the other side with several blows, and the tie rod joint usually breaks loose.
Yes AusCaRnAgEr, an air hammer works off an air compressor, you can usually insert different types of bits for whatever particular job you are working on.
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