new shoes for the old Gal - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

ford4v429 · 01-08-2005, 12:00

Finally found a set of the 16x7 c'vic/marquis wheels- couldnt think of anything else that might be appropriate for a 4 door...torq-thrust/other 'sport' wheels looked kinda silly on it.
Tires are only 225-55-16, will probably up to taller 265-70-16 (or so) later on, the little Goodyear 55's were just too cheap to pass up, as they are like new. I think this style wheel would go well on a starliner too- although not 'vintage'...
So what do you think?

Butchart · 01-08-2005, 22:26

Nice car, I think those really look good on it. Too bad that style of wheel wasn't out in the 60's. I would like something like that on my 63-1/2 but would lose my collector plate and the cheaper collector insurance. In B.C. we have to keep old cars original looking for the collector plates. Can only update for better safety. We can modify our old cars but then we pay regular insurance rates. Not many 65 4 door HT's around anymore.

ford4v429 · 01-09-2005, 09:55

Wow- I guess things are a lot stricter elsewhere. Only thing here for the antique plates is over 25 yrs old and "not used for general transportation", so as long as its to/from any car events its ok- just not supposed to drive to work, to the store, etc...the antique plates cost about $20(i think) and are good for life. my insurance has 'stated value', 'antique plated', etc, and costs about $50 a year for full coverage.
Best thing about antique plates in my state is no more Emissions checking required- nice for two reasons: no trips to the echeck station every other year(pain in the rear when you have 6 cars), and ANY underhood modifications are OK. If I still have my 85 camaro in another 5 years, its getting the 396 dropped in...hopefully will have the 69 mustang /429 on the road by then.
Ive read a little about 'engineers certificate' reqd in Aus for any modificatons, man that sounds like a total pain- I wonder if in a case like this an arguement could be made that the shorter diameter/radial tire construction/wider contact patch improves braking safety(dont think they could argue against that thinking).
When looking for tires, found these cheap, and as radius is 10% less than 'stock', thats 10% more effective brake torque, and of course better traction from tire type...I probably wont go to the taller tires until after putting disc brakes on it, as the stock drums kinda suck if youre used to discs.

Butchart · 01-09-2005, 16:11

Re our collector plate, insurance runs about 210 per year which is cheap compared to our regular plates. Under the collector plate we don't require emission tests either, but can modify safety areas like upgrade to disk brakes, seat belts, dual brake master cyl for older cars, radial tires etc. I'm running 215 70R 14 on my original 63 Ford rims and spinner hubcaps. Must keep original style wheels & hubcaps. The radials are smaller in circumference than the original bias ply tires and yes that would give more torque and better braking for the drum brakes. Also under collector plate the car cannot be used for work or buisness, no stereo or cd players, in some cases you are not allowed an engine chrome dress up kit. I have one on mine and get away with it because its under a manufacture part number, in this case being under a Ford part #.
It also has to be original equipment or New Old Reproduction Stock of which I have for the air breather. Valve covers were chromed. Motors must be of same type. Okay if you had a 352 cu. and put in a 390, as long as it is OEM (original equipment manufacture, I put that in just incase someone else reading this didn't know what OEM stood for). Other provinces of Canada have different rules again, guess its the same in your area from state to state. I don't mind driving with the drum brakes, not going to do a dozen panic stops in a row anyway, its when you got to redue them thats the pain, disks so much easier to service and change to new rotors and pads.
Not many big Galaxies in our area, I go to a few shows and I'm sometimes the only one with a Galaxie. Theres more GM crap then Ford crap around here. Even get out numbered with MOPAR stuff sometimes. (Mostly Old Parts And Rust) Okay enuff for today, good talkin to ya.

390wagon · 01-09-2005, 16:14

I think those rims look great with the dark blue body, how close are the tires/rims to the upper control arms up front? i have 235/75-15s and if my tire drops below 35 psi they rub on the control arms, the rims are american racing smoothies(came with the car) so i'm not sure if its the correct backspacing but an 80s ltd police rim is pretty close to the arm too, just wondering how the newer crown vic rims are space wise. in my state anything 25 or older can have an antique plate no matter what you do with it as long as its inspectable but my insurance company wants it to be used only for sunday drives and be garaged the rest of the time for the antique rate, screw that, i drive my car everywhere i can.

Butchart · 01-09-2005, 16:31

We can drive our cars anytime under collector plate as long as its for pleasure only. One other point, to qualify for a collector plate for your old car it must be 25 years or older unless its a very limited production vehicle and you must have another fully insured vehicle in your name. Also it cannot be a piece of junk, you have to send in pics when you apply for your first collector plate. We can live with that.

LunaticSVT · 01-09-2005, 17:13

Looks good.

ford4v429 · 01-09-2005, 17:46

Thanks for the comments guys.

390wagon: youre right about the upper control arm clearance- the 225's only clear by a little over 1/4", so I guess 225-55/235 in taller profile are gonna be about max width for this thing unless wheel spacers(yuck) are added.

adding disc brake steering knuckles might move the a-arm down/away: anyone out there know if thats the case?

390wagon · 01-10-2005, 13:22

Mine has the factory discs so if anything its worse. I wont complain though, i'd hate to haul all that big ol' wagon down with front drums

ford4v429 · 01-10-2005, 21:57

Before/after pics of the wheels- nice thing about 'non-chromed' aluminum, if you sand off the clearcoat and repolish, you can always bring back the shine...and you can pick up pitted/peeling clearcoat rims pretty cheap- if you dont mind putting an hour or two apeice into polishing...some people polish using the car axles as lathe, but that sounds risky/messy...made a big mess out in the workshop as it was-I lucked out and they just BARELY cleared in my old lathe...got a lot of machine cleaning to do now- abrasive dust gets everywhere...next time I'll cover up the ways/screws/shafts- Doh!
Sand with fine flapwheel, then 200/400/500 grit hand sanding with wet paper, then 6"buffing pad with 'cutting' compound, then another 6" pad with 'color' compound- pretty easy, except for the mess.