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1989 NA Fairlane

9K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  Aussiblue 
#1 ·
Hey'all,
Just about to put a deposit on a 1989 NA Fairlane!
I am really excited about this car as I am only 18 and have been driving for 5 months. 2 weeks ago some woman smashed into the back of my Skyline and AAMI wrote it off....

So My mom, my dad and I went car shopping and after a smoking magna, a dodgy 929 and a scary volvo 244 we came back to the car that I had already drove, The 89 Fairlane. I have no problems driving a large car as I learnt in 2 falcons (ED, EF), Jeep Grand Cherokee, 91 LTD.

I drove this and took dad's advice on what to look for:
* Transmission changes and clunks.
* Pulls up into a straight line under heavy braking
* Engine doesnt fume or blow smoke
* All the Electrics work and same with Aircon/Heater
* Service books or lack-therof
Well it passed all tests and It drove like a dream (My dad has an ED Futura) and it had a really good body bar a small mark on the front left wing. The interior was good just needs a shampoo and the enginebay was spotless (Although isnt as tidy as the ED).

It has done 267,000km

Can anyone tell me things that I need to watch out for?
What are the Service Intervals?
Should I take it to Ford to be serviced?
 
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#2 ·
a) leaks in rear shocks leading to depressed self levelling suspension (SLS);
b) failed SLS compressor (you should hear it run when you 1st start up in the right hand wing;
c) missing SLS fuse to hide 1 and or 2; also run self test with ignition on driver in seat flick the front door light switch (on A pillar) 3 times in one second and after it pumps up and evacuates the suspension and pumps up again the SLS light should flash 4 times.
d) worn outside edges of front tyres indicating need for a camber /caster kit;
e) older less powerful cars passing you as these car with three speed auto were somewhat slow off the mark;
f) blown head gaskets;
g) oil leaks from timing cover;
h) failed fan clutches;
i) broken blend doors in Auto Climate Control system (run the self diagnostics - press off and foot level switches simultaneouasly with engine off ignition on and see if it displays any fault codes after it takes a minute or so to run through its self test routine.
 
#3 ·
Thanx so much - is there any other self diagnosis stuff I should know? Like my mom and dads jeep has a thing where u turn the key on/off on /off on/off on and it tells u with lights if nething is wrong.

Also does this model have ABS?
 
#5 ·
I have had my 1989 NA Fairlane, since 2000.
I have never before driven such a nice smooth riding car as this, and I have had several cars now.
I have enjoyed the most memorable highway drives in this car.
I stopped, when I got the Na.
It is perhaps, the most beautiful fairlane made in Australia.
With American Styling, and Electronic Suspension.
And a long XD wheelbase, so one can stretch their legs out, in the back; COMFORTABLE.

But...

Be prepared for some maintenance.
Just about everything goes wrong with these.
And if you go to a Ford mechanic I won't mention, well.. Put it this way; I saw a woman in the waiting room, nervously watching the clock while getting her Ford fixed.
And after each hour went by, I saw her eyes rolling back.
Then they took her away, to present the bill.

So, you'll have to do your own maintenance, if you haven't got money to burn.

We had an overheating problem on my'ne.
Then oil started dripping from the head.
So, major work.
Head Gasket. Machined head.
Hoses. Etc...
The manifold, on myne, is a Multipoint fuel injection type, and getting ones fingers around it, for the head bolts, is so hard & painful, you get around 2mm leverage with a ring spanner on some bolts.
So, it is the most awkward motor I have ever worked on.
It has me cursing & swearing working on it.
I don't think the engineers, had any consideration for the mechanics with this design.
We had to remove the intake manifold, and the work is just awful.
The ignition coil, is, under the manifold?
And, to make things worst, so, is the distributor?

I nearly threw in the towl to sell it off, after working on it to start with.
But the smooth comfortable drive, keeps me going.

I am in for a lot of pain, replacing the manifold and the rest.
So I have been taking my time with repairs.

Check underneath, for power steering leaks. (EXPENSIVE SPECIALIST REPAIR)
Check, electronic suspension, also fairly expensive repair.

These cars have so many regular problems, they need regular maintenance.
I have seen them advertised, for around $2,500
I don't know if I would pay more than that.
 
#8 ·
The other day, I think I entered the 7th circle of hell, with more car repairs.

using a magnetic wire rope thingamajig, to place the distributor bracket, into the 'stuffed' manifold, with a simple slip, and the bolts and brackets disappearing into the motor, and then, falling to the ground, having to get under the car, and try over and over again, reduced me to tears.

So the throttle had to come off, and requires a rare long alen key.

They stuffed, the starter motor, ignition coil, and distributor, all under the manifold; I ask, how does this make sense?

I am doing a modification,
I extended the ignition coil wires, and placed the ignition coil, under the headlight screw.

To free up some space, under the manifold.

And make repairs sane.

I set it all up, bolted it all in, set the timing sprocket, distributor, plugged in the leads, and got ready, to start.

And,... Nothing.

The fiddly, akward, straining work, pulled the terminal plug, out of the starter motor solenoid, right down the back of the manifold, and right under.

So I had too pull it all out, and do it all, over again!

So I did that.

This time, making sure it turned over first.

And bolted and set it up, all over again.

And now, old cracked wiring, showed a broken wire basically.

The wiring loom, is old, and cracking, and needs a replacement, but, I cannot afford it, so, fixing the dry, cracked wires, and hopeing for the best..

So today, off comes the throttle again maybe.

Just so I can remove the ecu plug, and fix the wiring.

Because there's no spark!

And my Fairlane, has been sitting in the driveway, for around 3 months.

Its a lovely smooth drive when it goes.

I am wondering if it is worth it now.
 
#10 ·
Because there's no spark!
Then check the coil and TFI module first especially as you would have extended the wiring to move the coil. If you can get a Ford compatible Noid light (Repco or Covs) it will also plug into the wire that comes from the ECU to the coil; it should flash as you turn the engine over. Then put and old spark plug with the gap opened slightly to 1.5mm gap and earthed on the block or head, at the distributor end of the HT lead that comes from the coil to the distributor and see if it flashes brightly when you turn the engine over. Then do the same at the plug ends of the HT leads.

I assume you have cranked the engine with the distributor cap off to ensure the dizzy gear is not stripped and it is turning.

Also check the ECU earth in the passenger side footwell is good and firm (the screw hole can open up and lose the earth connection so it works on and off).


You can check the primary and secondary resistance of the coil off engine (0.41 to 0.45 ohms and 7.12 to 7.87 ohms respectively) but I have seen bad coils test with good resistances but fail the foregoing on engine tests.

Also check with a multimeter that the earth wire to coil is earthing and that the suppression capacitor is good and not shorting (if this is too hard simply try disconnecting the capacitor and see if it works then). Then see Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting to check the TFI module. Note why the link is a US ranger site all the tests apply to your Fairlane and for example the test ohms reading on the TFI module are the same.
 
#12 ·
In the real world, it isn't easy, to stuff your hand up the 3.9 MPFI manifold, to fix a part.
The hand usually bleeds, because everything is stuffed in.
Makes no sense to me, and why rip out the whole motor?
Well, today, I found the broken wire that came off the tfi plug, was to the coil, I fixed that, and now I have a healthy spark pulse.
I'm happy to say, that the ignition coil modification, where the wires were extended out of the manifold, was a success. No more nightmare ignition coil replacement job.
Found the computer diagnostics section today, with the pulse reading codes.
I open the throttle off, and hardly smell fuel at all, and it hardly kicks.
So, with the fault finding, it looks like the MAP sensor, but could be something else.
I ordered a new MAP sensor, as I have had an intermittent fault, where the car faults in tim buck 2, for around 5 minutes, and then mysteriously starts again?
I believe its the MAP sensor; for this one hasn't been replaced, since 2000.
I guess the ECU diagnostics, doesn't always work.
Not for intermittent faults necessarily.
Major progress today, we have spark, after 3 or so months!
And a little kick during startup.
I've got all the radiator and fan out, and keeping them out just for startup checks.
Waiting on parts, and another nice day.
 
#14 ·
Unfortunately the proliferation of these illegal pirated manuals by men of straw (no value in suing them) that breach copyright have essentially put the original Australian publisher and a small family business out of business or at least discouraged them from producing new ones so I don't recommend them.
 
#16 ·
Copyright lasts much longer than 5 years (50 years min and often longer; usually the life of the publisher plus another 70 years) see: https://www.copyright.org.au/acc_pr...a-a3f1235d0fb1&iFileTypeCode=PDF&iFileName=An Introduction to Copyright in Australia

Yes; they are still being published see: https://renniks.com/main.aspx?pageid=658

It's more than piracy it's theft of intellectual property. And yes I have confirmed with Max Ellery himself (now retired) that these manuals are still covered and copyright protected.
 
#18 ·
Good to know, we have aussieblue, internet coppah around protecting us, from the bad pirates.

Oh, don't get stuck into me about it coppahblue, I was just trying to be a nice citizen, passing on workshop manual link.

Aussieblue, can you please get off my case, thanx.

Today, was a nice day, and I planned a self computer diagnostics check.

I noticed the diagnostics connector, has been ripped right out.

I found the C; white black wire, and connected that, finding a high, and low voltage with ignition off, and absolutely nothing, with ignition.

Forgot to short out the A and B terminals.
Perhaps do this later.

Plan to put a switch in, and a test lamp, permanently into the dash, for easy diagnostics.
 
#19 ·
That was response certainly wasn't called for noting that a) I have given you quite a lot of useful and helpful responses and b) I also have not actually condemned or criticised you for buying pirated manuals; that's a matter for your conscience not my judgement. Nonetheless, I do have real concerns how people illegally copying and selling CDs of these copyrighted manuals had on the long term future a small family and regionally based Australian business (Max Ellery) and what impact it will have on the future availability of alternative workshop manuals in future and therefore I will always point this fact out when people suggest that others buy these products and will try and discourage the practice.

You will notice that Haynes has bought out Gregory's and Chiltons there few alternatives and the Chiltons and Gregory's manuals are just the Haynes ones with different covers. Sometimes with the Gregory's just parts of text contents have been converted from imperials to metric measurements; but they are often not made for the cars sold in OZ and even the pictures are for LHD cars.

You can buy replace OBD a wrecker and sometimes new ones appear on ebay. Then you can more easily extract codes with one of these sometimes as low as $20 on ebay USA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVA-3145...:g:im0AAOSwo0JWOIh2&item=221930841738&vxp=mtr
 
#20 ·
Today, I found the ECU connector, on the left side of the engine bay, near the battery.
I tried the LED, and resistor, but couldn't find a 560 ohm resistor, so I used a digital multimeter, which was hard to use, due to the jumping numbers.

12, 22, 52.

12, is the ISC, which makes sense, being on the swap over used throttle.
22 MAP sensor, as I thought.
52, Power steering switch. I haven't noticed a problem, must be intermittent.

This diagnostics thing, is really good! First time i've used it.

MAP arrived, so I replaced it, before it began pissing down rain.

Managed to loosen off throttle, and set up timing with sprocket notch, and timing marks.

Removed ignition leads.

Called it a day.

Hopeing Aussieblue, is not not after another aussie blue, Ehe He HeHe
 
#21 ·
The power steering switches fail often and will cause stalling at low speed turns (it is meant to send a signal to the ECU to increase engine revs when you are turning) ; but it is probably OK as you are meant to swing the steering wheel back and forth half a turn once the self test has initiated (first flashes) otherwise it will report a fault.

Today, I found the ECU connector, on the left side of the engine bay
It's usually the right side or driver's side near the firewall/brake master cylinder but perhaps you were standing in front of the car. Similarly, the battery is usually on the right side or driver's side. Like this:

 
#22 · (Edited)
Good information there.

Today, was the big day.

So I set up the dizzy, and bolted up the throttle, the upteenth time.

Then, as I was swapping over the ISC from the throttle, the gasket, was so brittle, it came to pieces under my fingernail.
And then, the MAP sensor hose was loose around the fitting, so I, cut a half inch off the end to get it tighter, after noticing the hose crack, clean in half, around an inch down, and later, noticing in horror, that the connection of a new one, involved, taking out all the distributor and components, all over again, to get my hand up the manifold from hell, to get the new hose connected.

I thought I could get parts today, after realising it was geelong cup holiday, with all the shops closed.

A lovely sunny day, stuck at home.

So, I devised a plan, to avoid the maintenance strain.

Usually the 3.9 Litre job from Hell, involves, the starter motor, and or Ignition coil, and or distributor.
And ah yes, I do believe it wont be too long before the starter motor, causes me more grief.

So, in stock, a brand new starter motor, MAP hose, and distributor, for the next job from hell.

Oh, more fun, I couldn't find in any manuals, the power steering switch job.
Found it on Youtube, with the mechanic finding so little room, in a fiddly awkward little space, where the switch goes, sawing a 14mm spanner in half, just to shift it!

Can't wait for that one...
 
#23 ·
Oh, more fun, I couldn't find in any manuals, the power steering switch job.
Found it on Youtube, with the mechanic finding so little room, in a fiddly awkward little space, where the switch goes, sawing a 14mm spanner in half, just to shift it!

Can't wait for that one...
Those videos always make me laugh as actually it just requires some minor lateral thinking; jack the front driver's side up and remove the right hand front wheel and it is very easy to get at. Just watch that:

a) you turn the replacement switch at the hex with a spanner; even hand tightening with the plastic part of the switch will break the switch seal and it will leak;
b) aftermarket replacement switch has a different size hex so you need tow different spanners - one for removal of old switch one for installing new switch; and
c) aftermarket switches come with cheap rubber "O" rings that are not power steering fluid resistant and will turn to mush so the switch leaks again; so get a factory "O" ring or use power steering resistant sealant (LOCTITE HYDRAULIC SEALANT 569 and 542) and a factory "O" ring. The buna rubber and nitrile "o" rings supplied with most switches are not hydraulic fluid resistant and turn to mush after a few months. You need polyacrylate "o" rings.
 
#24 ·
I had thought, that we nearly there.
Then, after checking the spark plug lead, and finding no spark, a whole range of new grief, began.
So, after all the other replacements, throttle, ISC, gasket after gasket.
I have to do, it, all over again!
I've decided, that the modification, might have caused a poor spark.
So, we're putting the ignition coil, back under the manifold, with the rest of the joke.
I don't want to ever have to do this job from Hell, again, so I am selling the car, after I get it going, and I don't intend to buy another NA.
Any, multipoint fuel injected nightmares, for that matter.
The MPFI 3.9L is, eh, a real disappointment.
Its really sad that Ford made this, I really believe they could have done better..

You know, I got the money together, for another mechanic to work on it, for a laugh.

But, he accosted me, almost straight away, $140, and then it wasn't funny anymore..
Told him to piss off.

I'll try and keep a straight face when I'm selling it.
 
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