BA Driver

Hi All

Has anyone out there had or have any problems with a brake shudder in their BA Falcon?

Slowing from between 80-100kmh the whole car shudders. Anyone else had this problem fixed and know what it is????

dawal5

yeah mate, it's a common problem and is a warrenty issue for ford. if you take it back they will machine your disks and the problem won't be back for about... ummm... two or three high speed breakings!! not worth it imo. BUT i was talking to a service guy at my local dealer and he said that there was a different compound of brake pads that are expected to fix the problem which will be available in april. fingers crossed. other than that i've heard that getting slotted disks will fix it, don't know if this is true.... good luck.

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2003 BA FUTURA. Harvest Green, Lowered with Kings springs and Koni shocks, 18" GT-P mag wheels, XR front bar headlights and grill, XR rear spoiler, Fairmont Bootlid trim, XR6T snorkle, Typhoon second CAI, K&N filter, Pacemaker extractors with Herrod cat back, 3.73 LSD & CAPA FLASH with custom tune. ALSO 12" dual voice coil kicker, JL 5x7's and 1800W of amps!

S Marcus

I have an AU model ute and machining the disc's is exactly what they told me to do, and that it would fix the problem for two or three stops. The alternative was to replace the disc's with vented or slottled ones, and change the pads to a different compound. I did this about a month ago now and it works a treat. Even took it to a race track a week after getting it done, not a problem in the world, pulled up straight and without a shudder EVERY time.

FANTM1

What dawal5 said. Or get in first and buy a set of pads, that way you may save another disc machining process.

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'03 BA XR8 Manual, Edit, Hi Flow Cats, HPX twin system, King Springs, Battens C.A.I.

fordboy98

Shudder is caused primarily by high spots (or more correctly wear spots) on the disc rotors. Going back to EF/EL's there was lots said and written about correctly setting the torque on the wheel bearing nut so as the disc would run "true". If it was not correctly adjusted the disc would just, and only just, brush the pad surface during driving and develop wear spots. After several thousand k's of driving they'd be bad enough to almost shake the steering wheel out of your hand when you applied the brakes. You should sort out and fix the disc surface condition before you replace the pads.

Generally I've found after market (DBA) rotors a good investment. I'm running slotteds on my EL with Performax pads and they are really good, save for the fact the brakes are a bit tardy when they are cold. Nearly collected the postman one morning!

Blueblood

Shudder on BA's is caused by a biuld up of pad material resulting from pad transferrance. It can be fixed by machining the rotors and fitting different pads. I did mine at 8,000k and fitted Ferodo Formula, Now done 50odd km and no shudder.
Great pads, peform better than any I have tried, ECB, ultimate, Performax etc, AND they stop when cold.
I know Ferodo Excel pads have the same abilty to keep the shudder away after the rotors have been machined.