what type of front end/ steering/ suspension upgrades are around for XY or Xa,b,or xc are available to make the handling better.
i used to own a non power steering XD, and wouldn't mind it at least as good if not better, because this project will be my only non 4x4, i'd like something with looks and power (check and check) but something i can punt along some twisty roads, or up a mountain road, with a smile on the face
The A arms arn't that bad
rebuilding the lot is a good start.
Use urethane bush's on the UCA's /swaybar and rubber on the LCA's and strut rods's
Urethane is supposed to be to hard for the LCA/strut rod and can cause binding.
Replace the camber adjusters with ones that cant adjust themselves over time.
upgrade the front sway bar and springs
Losing a bit of ride height not all of it, will also help
The rack/pinion will make a big difference getting rid of flex /wear from the factory
setup.
Use urethane on the front leaf spring Bushes and rubber on the shackles
Use a correctly fitted panhard bar( it has to pass through the roll center of the car?)
Opinions any one? as this is also what i am plan to do myself and other than reinventing the wheel should be enough for a licenced road car.
I found I could keep up with a modded R32 skyline in my old XB through the hills @ 80-140kph. The only suspension mods were reasonable front tyres, lowered 2", nolethane "A" arm bushes, nolethane on the ends of the front stock sway bar, nolethane in the upper suspension arm, nolethane through-out the leaf springs and added 2 more leaf springs to the pack. I had 6 springs in the pack. Body roll? Nope.
I ran 16*8" rims too just incase.
I changed the front tyres as my front tyres failed due to camber bolt failure. Now it corners woeful. It goes straight and not around the corner. While I am drag racing thats fine but on the street it's annoying. So new tyres on the front are in order.
i heard somewhere about using XD/XE or XF parts in the front end, maybe something to do with improves camber retention or something, anyone know what i'm rabbiting about?
You can basically use XF parts though-out as they are the same. Supposedly the upper suspension arm is different (longer) but all I found is it was non-servicable in an XF. Where XB/C had grease nipples. Grease nipples are good for stopping that squeaky front end.
The A arms arn't that bad
rebuilding the lot is a good start.
Use urethane bush's on the UCA's /swaybar and rubber on the LCA's and strut rods's
Urethane is supposed to be to hard for the LCA/strut rod and can cause binding.
Replace the camber adjusters with ones that cant adjust themselves over time.
upgrade the front sway bar and springs
Losing a bit of ride height not all of it, will also help
The rack/pinion will make a big difference getting rid of flex /wear from the factory
setup.
Use urethane on the front leaf spring Bushes and rubber on the shackles
Use a correctly fitted panhard bar( it has to pass through the roll center of the car?)
Opinions any one? as this is also what i am plan to do myself and other than reinventing the wheel should be enough for a licenced road car.
I agree on most of your points here 302 xm but i have heard of cases where people have installed nolathane bushings everywhere in the front and then reverted back to the original rubber because the ride was just too harsh.I am in the process of doing my front suspension and here is what i have been told. Firstly ,lowering your upper control arm mounting points by one inch is a worthwhile mod and costs nothing if you do it yourself.Secondly ,i am using xc upper control arms in my xr.The RRS option looks the goods here but alas my chequebook is not that healthy.I have opted to use the standard setup albeit somewhat modified and have been assured it will work great.As for the steering the original setup has been binned and the rack and pinion from RRs is definately on the cards here.The original setup is just too sloppy for my liking.
I changed the front tyres as my front tyres failed due to camber bolt failure. Now it corners woeful. It goes straight and not around the corner. While I am drag racing thats fine but on the street it's annoying. So new tyres on the front are in order.
Brenden
Use a fine threaded camber bolt, with nice tight fitting cams.
Then tack weld them in place when you have it aligned properly.
That's the only way I ever had them stay in place when I peddled the car hard.
Rick.
__________________
4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
russxr67 makes a good point with regards to lowering the upper control arms 1". This is what Shelby did to his Mustang in the 60's.
If you feel like reading a comprehensive tech article on the matter click here
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