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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-03, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb NCII EECIV replacement...

Hi all

After much poking around, my mechanic states that the reason my car is running rough and stalling is the computer. This seems a bit vague to me. He also quoted $450 for a new one. Are these computers (eeciv) easy to replace (or repair)?

I've also noticed black ash or soot coming out with the water from the exhaust at startup. this must be related as it started to happen after the car was running rough (about a month ago).

Any ideas would be welcome thanks

I also have an NA EECIV computer spare. Can i use that?


Thanks,
Paul


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-03, 10:48 PM
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Re: NCII EECIV replacement...

Computer failures are pretty rare, I would get a second opinion. Check out your coolant temp sensor and your O2 sensor. What fault codes did he get?

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-03, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: NCII EECIV replacement...

He didn't say... i replaced the coolant temp sensor a coupla months back now. how can i check to see wot codes i get?

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-03, 10:54 PM
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Re: NCII EECIV replacement...

Black is overfueling.
I would check out the above sensors, also the MAP sensor and regulator.
If you have a spare computer you can try it, but I also dount it's that. Any wrecker will practically GIVE you an auto computer - they are certainly not worth $450!
It may be worth getting Ford or a mechanic you can trust to put a diagnostic tool on your car; you can, however, do it yourself - just search previous posts for how. if you have a manual it will tell you what the codes mean (and how to get them) or you can post the codes up and somebody can tell you what they mean.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-03, 12:20 AM
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If it helps, i paid $60 for a 3.9 MPI manual ECU at the wreckers.
I thought my ECU was playing up aswell but it still hesitates with the
new one. I think new O2 sensor.

Brent

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-03, 01:46 AM
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Re: NCII EECIV replacement...

If your replacing the computer itll probably be the XR6 type. Did the sportsman get the XR6 motor? If youve got a post 10/92 the NA ecu wont work as it wont have smartlock. If its pre 10/92 then it 'should' start but I dunno what the trans will do since it wont have the trans integrated with the ecu

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-03, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: NCII EECIV replacement...

Thanks for the advice guys, i havn't got a tester/diagnostic tool so i'll prolly have to take it outta town AGAIN to have it looked at.

a sensor problem sounds more sensible, i won't bother changing ECU then.

NZ - i'm guessing it has got the xr6 motor (green rocker cover, tickford wings on engine).

This coulda been costly thanks again BTW, how much should i expect to pay for sensor?


Paul

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-03, 08:40 PM
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When I had my car dyno'd by professionals, they said the computer was faulty. I removed it and sent it to a repair shop in Vic. I asked them to check everything in the computer, all the inputs and the outputs.

Came back. No fault found!!!!

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-07-03, 05:28 AM
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Just a quick note regarding o2 sensors - the NGK brand o2 sensor, which is actually an NTK o2 sensor is the same item as the genuine ford item.

If you look at the ford item, it has NTK stamped on it.

They are available from repco etc...

If it is running rich, and youve already replace the ECT sensor, try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, on the firewall and see how it runs, if it is worse, then the map sensor may be ok, however if it makes no difference, make sure the hose is still connected to the manifold (ie has vacuum present) or replace the map sensor.

The other reason it may run rich, is if you have an o2 sensor fault, reading constantly lean, therefore the ecu compensates and richens the mixture.

As stated ECU's generally dont cause any dramas, but from time to time you will see a falc with a leaking windscreen or a leak around where the wipers are, and the water usually drips onto the ECU,
It wouldnt hurt to take the ECU out and check for moisture. Remove the connector from the ECU (10mm bolt) and also check in there.

From wreckers you shouldnt pay any more than around $130 for an ECU, EA ones being cheaper, but if its MPEFI and has smartlock, you can replace it with an EBII or ED unit without any hassles, as long as its an AUTO Ecu,
FYI An EBII auto ecu may have the code 1DCE on it (thats one of the many, but it may help in finding one)

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Last edited by 9psi EB; 07-07-03 at 05:32 AM.
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