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Australian Falcons Discuss the australian born and bred models here. Includes the 80's 90's and present day Falcons offered by Ford Oz.

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Old 04-17-2004, 22:22   #1 (permalink)
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Rebuilding, questions.

Well, i have been taking apart the 4.0L ford engine that I bought, and I noticed that when I took off the fly wheel behind it there was a round sticker saying 3.9 MP Auto, now is the difference from the 4.0L and the 3.9L in the head or in the size of the pistons or what???

Another question is, can i use degreeser on the inside and outside of the block and hose it off with out it rusting????
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Old 04-17-2004, 23:30   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

the 4.0L had a different head, and different pistons also had different crank and rods. to find out if it is a 4.0L block it should have 91DA on the side. if you want to clean it properly take it to an engine reconditioning shop and get them to chemicly clean it for you. will come out heaps cleaner than degreaser.
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Old 04-18-2004, 01:07   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

ok it had that number on it but wy did it have that sticker???

do u recomend having the crankshaft block polished etc as well as the head???
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Old 04-18-2004, 02:08   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

Was the sticker on the block or the drive plate?
Odd. As long as it says 91DA, you should be right.

How do you mean, polished?
Usually I just flush the oil and waterways clean. If the oil's particularly gummy it might be worth acid-bathing, but I don't think you'll have any problems cleaning it with a decent degreaser and a pressure washer. That Export degreaser is very good: unusually, it's one of the cheapest available at $2/spraycan
If you clean it now and then let it sit for more than a few weeks, I reccomend using a film of clean engine oil to rustproof the cylinder bores and the bearings on the crank/cam. That's all that's likely to rust.
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Old 04-18-2004, 02:25   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

ok then, so there is no need to do anything to the crank part of the block, except just put some clean engine oil on bearings etc. and get some new pistons.

some other questions,
what comes in a acl rebuild kit and how much are they?
when putting all the timing chain and gears on how will i know the rockers are timed with the pistons???
do i need to replace the rockers and peadtals???
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Old 04-18-2004, 03:54   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

Before you buy anything - measure it. Borrow or buy a set of Vernier calipers, and measure all the bores, bearing journals, etc. Use a good flat edge to test the block and head faces. Metal rulers work well.
What work you do will depend on the measurements you get.

Invest in a Gregory's or Ellery's manual. Personally I prefer Gregory's, but that's me
It will provide you with all the tolerances, torque settings, etc. Also a detailed how-to on setting up the valve timing and a complete strip-down and rebuild of the entire car, including motor and gearbox. Cost about $30-$40, well worth it.

Rebuild kits - will vary depending on what needs doing.
It's probably a safe bet to assume the engine needs boring. That means $50-odd per cylinder, plus your piston/ring set.
You will need a FULL gasket set (rocker cover to sump, including stem seals) and head bolts. Veale are usually good.
You will need new main bearings. If the crank needs to be ground, you need to pay for that as well. Usually in the region of $100 for crank grinding. Obviously if the crank is ground down, you'll need oversize bearings, so don't buy them until you've measured.
You can balance it as well if you like, probably not necessary for your application. Costs about the same as grinding.
Does the block need decking? If so, $50.
That's the bottom end.


New timing chain/guides. Umm I *think* that's worth like $60 but I don't remember.
Lifter rebuild kit? About $12 from Repco, there's a thread on here somewhere with the part number on. That does all 12 lifters BTW.
Any head and cam work you do.
Intake/exhaust gaskets *should* come with the gasket set. Check.
About $20 for some valve grinding paste. It never hurts to stick some of this on the sealing surface of the valve and use the drill (slowly!!) on the valve stem to clean up the valve seat a bit.
Does the head need facing? $50.


You won't need to replace the rockers and pedestals, no.

Umm I think I remembered everything

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Old 04-18-2004, 04:28   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

talking about degreasing, i got a bit of oil leaking out the rocker cover seal and im thinking of getting some degreaser to clean it out and see how bad the leak is. anyway with using those spray on cans? do you just spray over the part you want degreased than hose it off? is there anything that should avoid getting wet in the engine bay besides the battery and electrical stuff? and will the degreaser damage plastic and rubber hoses if accidently sprayed onto it?
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:50   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Rebuilding, questions.

Just spray over and hose off.
It shouldn't damage the hoses or wires.
Oh and try not to get the dizzy too wet. Spray's OK but avoid a full stream of water.

The rockerboxes usually leak, piss-poor sealing area. Use some silicone when you put the new gasket in, that usually fixes it

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