Why are retreads regarded so badly for safety reasons? Do they wear quicker, grip less, disperse water less? They are quite cheap so i would like to know any major reasons why they shouldnt be purchased to put on an average large car like a falcon
They usually wear a lot quicker but are quite grippy and excellent in the wet. If you want to know why they are bad news then go and run one till it delaminates...after it tears your panel to pieces and probably turn your car sideways into the nearest wall you will know why I would never have them on anything faster than a FSM Niki!
you might get nice new tread but the sidewall and casing of the tyre are still original and I would say they are only designed to last the length of the original tread.. with all the places here selling 2nd hand tyres you hardly ever see retreads anymore...
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Although they would probably give you better grip in the wet then ome Falkens, from what I have read in these Forums. Most retreads are limited to 140Km/h. Al lnew tyres sold in AUstralia must be at least S rated which means 180Km/h, yeah I know you can only LEGAlly do 110 in all civilisation, but there is such a thing called "factor of safety"
Well, from the viewpoint of a near-geriatric, first here's the reason retreads are bad news generally: all they do is take a premoulded piece of rubber and glue it to a stripped and cleaned carcass. You ever take a run out in the sticks -- or even on an arterial road -- and see all the treads left by the truckies? That's why.
OTH, why you SHOULD consider REMOULDS. Remoulds are different: they start with the same stripped and cleaned carcass, but then they take a long strip of uncured compund and roll it onto the carcass, layer after layer, just like teflon tape on a pipe joint. THEN they cook it -- cure it -- and that's where the tread gets moulded in. They have the same properties as cheap new tyres, and are excellent if all you do is run around the shopping centers and the odd trip out to the sticks.
Look at the place where the tread joins the shoulder. A remould will blend in smoothly, with maybe a thin dag hanging out. A retread has a glued-on, disconnected look -- you'll also detect a seam across the width of the tread.
So I guess it comes down to what you need. Remoulds are good to 120Km/h legally, which gives a reasonable safety margin. What's your wheels? Family/work hack? Go for it. Night Moves with mods? Get a set of (new) fatties --they look much better on your mags, and will give better performance at that stress level.
BTW. Do you know that tyre grip is dictated by the tread contact LENGTH? Not by the WIDTH. If your fatties are too wide, you'll actually LOSE traction!
BTW. Do you know that tyre grip is dictated by the tread contact LENGTH? Not by the WIDTH. If your fatties are too wide, you'll actually LOSE traction!
(I used to work in a tyre factory.)
Yes: Pressure = force/area
wider tyres with the same weight car will give you LESS pressure on the road.
I think I saw your car at calder last week Grumpy1 it is tough, good work.
When I bought my 17's I had remoulds fitted at the tyre factory cos I was cheap and worked casual hours.
After about 6 months abuse behind my 351 XF the rear tyres became out of round. I put the same wheels onto the front of my EB when the XF was sold and at 40 kms and above the car would shake violently. I had to put them onto the back it was so bad. Now the vibration only sets in at about 110km.
I would not buy them again due to the way I drive.
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Retreads
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