Running In Procedure - Ford Forums

tickfordboy · 02-23-2003, 03:42

The engine has just been overhauled in my EA and I have just noticed it start to blow a little smoke for a small period of time on startup. I have had running in oil through it, and I have had that in for 5000 k's, I changed the oil to a Shell grade oil and I am having this problem. I have also noticed that when the engine is at running temperature the oil guage is about a third showing while running at cruising speed. Is this normal? and do I need to take the engine back to the mechanic who did it just before I bought the car. How many k's should it take to run in the engine? I am under the understanding that blue smoke shouldn't even be there, running in or not.

Thanatos · 02-23-2003, 04:26

It's quite common for engines to use a little bit of oil whilst they are still being run in (because the rings take some time to 'bed in' and seal properly), however, for it to cause blue smoke is perhaps a bit excessive. Also, the fact that it only does it on startup indicates that it's more likely a problem with the valves, guides, stem seals, etc. (because the oil drains down these into the cylinder whilst the engine is stopped, then when you start it up it burns all this oil).

If it were me, I'd be taking it back and talking to the mechanic about it. If he's a half decent mechanic, he should check it out for you and tell you if there's anything to worry about...

Hope this helps.

Dave

old_mate · 02-23-2003, 04:40

mmmmm.....

As soon as you are allowed, bounce the thing off the limiter. Every donk i have ever touched I have always redlined it pretty much as soon as i have taken it down the road (ok, after say the initial runs to tune the thing.....but before 200km has passed thats for sure) and I havent had a single problem, IMO a car which has been stressed a little when its fresh will always be better. A lot of people reckon a cained motor straight up will have more performance and the like, and I also tend to agree. But i trust myself and my mates so.....yea

if you have a warranty on it and it states dont cain it for the first however many km well adhere to it.

im sure others will say in a more technical term why a donk may or may not run better after having it sent to the limiter fresh......(mind you my redlining experiences revolve around the rebuilds of datto 4cyls, gemini motors and one 308 holden).

TopGhia · 02-23-2003, 11:33

The most important thing on breaking in a new or rebuilt motor is the oil, use a straight 30W, and never, ever use synthetic until you have about 2k k's on it.

sikEA's idea is a bit radical, but it will not hurt to give the motor an occasional high rev burst, but do not sustain high revs for long periods. Heat is the enemy here and can cause cylinder glazing, same as a pussyfoot break-in can also cause glazing.

I just re-read your post, it should be broken in by now, let the mechanic have a look.

As mentioned, it could be valve guides/seals.

You didn't mention the viscosity of the oil you are now using. If you are using some light weight synthethic junk, drain it and replace with a good 15W-40 (eek, it comes out of the ground) normal type oil, and if it still smokes (after about 500 k's) take it back to the mechanic.

good luck

tickfordboy · 02-23-2003, 17:02

the oil i am using is a 20w 50 grade which I feel should be good enough, its shell helix. maybe I will go see the mechanic who built the engine, I am a mechanic myself but why should I fix it if its still covered. pointless really, so yeah, i am off to the mechanic. I think its the guides myself, the comps are right up and the oil consumption is sweet FA.

TopGhia · 02-23-2003, 22:05

Yeah, that grade should be OK, let us know what happens.

Rmyers · 02-25-2003, 04:23

Quote:

Originally posted by sikEA
mmmmm.....

As soon as you are allowed, bounce the thing off the limiter. Every donk i have ever touched I have always redlined it pretty much as soon as i have taken it down the road (ok, after say the initial runs to tune the thing.....but before 200km has passed thats for sure) and I havent had a single problem, IMO a car which has been stressed a little when its fresh will always be better. A lot of people reckon a cained motor straight up will have more performance and the like, and I also tend to agree. But i trust myself and my mates so.....yea

if you have a warranty on it and it states dont cain it for the first however many km well adhere to it.

im sure others will say in a more technical term why a donk may or may not run better after having it sent to the limiter fresh......(mind you my redlining experiences revolve around the rebuilds of datto 4cyls, gemini motors and one 308 holden).

hmmm, I busted my mates water pump doing this, so I would advise against it

EDXR8 · 02-25-2003, 04:38

Rmyers, If you busted the water pump, it was faulty and would have gone soon anyway.

I agree with sikEA, you need to give an engine some high revs to break it in properly. If everything is built correctly, there should be no need for the lengthy break-in periods.

I gave mine about 50km before reving it up to 5500rpm and doing some hard launches. Changed the oil at 100km and then drove it like normal.

Thanatos · 02-25-2003, 14:29

The key thing to remember is not to hold the same revs (particularly high revs) for longs periods of time whilst the motor is being run in.

I, too, reckon that it helps to give the motor is little burst every now and then to help it run in....

Dave