Re: What are these worth?
I know of a XA GT sedan that sold for $1000 rolling chassis that only needed a fuel tank/engine and box. It sold 2 years ago. I am spewing I got told by the owner 12 months later, when he knew I was looking for a good rolling chassis. Paint work was very clean, no rust either. My fuel cell plate and straps (mounting) etc were originally in the XA GT.
I personally wouldn't pay highly for a rusty car as usually it ends up being structural (unregisterable). Especially X series cars. Look how many people here have given up on projects due to never ending rust repairs. Then bought a car requiring less work. It's had to get rid of rust permanently.
I purchased my XB Fairmont for $2300 (had SA rego) and sold majority of the parts from it. When that last bits are collected, I'll have unofficially paid nothing for it. It had a few dints (repairable) and a small amount of rust in the rear pillars (just starting). Also a bad rust repair on a repair pillar. Person who did the welding was rough as guts. That was a V8 (supposed 351 haven't checked it yet), auto (c4) runnninf a 3.5 9" LSD disc brake diff. It's only bad point? I hated the color. So I painted and restored anything that needed it while I was there. Was I in the right places @ the right time? Nope. I knocked $700+ off the price as I knew it was run down. There are plenty of cars like mine awaiting owners to advertise them.
They aren't worth much unless they have a desirable driveline or are pretty rust free. Will looking for my car I looked @ supposed good cars and none we're anything near in condition of the car I bought.
I also looked @ a XB coupe. It was straight but probably weighed about 200kgs more than factory due to all the bog that had been put in the roof, doors, parcel shelf (non existant) and 1/4's. The amount of bog scared me. I perfer to see the rust to see nothings hidden.
If they are repairable ie not requiring $1000+ of rust repair? They are worth something.
I personally think rust in:
Front 1/4's is okay
Bonnet or boot okay
Rust that aint okay is:
Rust behind the front 1/4's leading into the footwell and chassis. (structural)
Rear 1/4 rust (repair able but expensive)
Parcel shelf rust (structural)
Bailey channel rust (structural)
Foot well rust (repairable)
It's a shame that a GT owner and a coupe owner let them get run down. As they are classics worth owning.
From my experience very few people have $5000-$10,000 to dump on a chassis/restoration. So most are looking for a car that requires minimal repair or otherwise the car doesn't get a second look. They also don't have the knowledge to rebuild the car themselves. Due to that they really need $20,000+. They also look immediate things. Like what does it need to get it roadworthy/registered immediately?
Without seeing the cars we can only assume the worst though. There maybe surprises? I got a few nice surprises finding go fast bits in my car. Some of the worst advertised cars are often the best. The way I buy a car is I usually look @ least twice. On the second viewing I take notes and not down whats required to get it on the road. Next to each item I write a price down also. I show this to the owner and negotiate the price. I have a little benefit as my dads a licensed r/w tester and is picky as hell. I guess some of it rubbed off on me?
I still stand by my thoughts of never buying from an enthusiast. I screwed up with this new car and are having to shell out a few extra $ on small things. Like the wiring loom repairs I have done.
XB Fairmont (street car) email@example.com.