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Old 02-13-2003, 00:43   #1 (permalink)
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Question AOD 4sp auto instead of EB-V8's BTR??

has anyone had any success stories of dropping a stuffed BTR 4sp for an AOD 4sp auto from the states? i have a mate whos EBII V8 lost a band in the tranny and is now running on first and third(my beast did that four months ago, but thats a different story- hello T5!).. the poor guy dont have the cash to fork out for another tranny, so he's running around with jsut two gears.

word is, the AOD is a reasonable box and since it's mated to the five litre mustangs in the states then it must be able to handle the grunt..

has anyone any advice on whether this path is worth it and how much it will cost roughly.. or does anyone know someone my mate can talk to?

thanks.
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Old 02-13-2003, 02:11   #2 (permalink)
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It's prob better to repair the btr trans.It is fairly common for the front band to fail and it takes the c3 clutch drum with it.I say this because the AOD has it's fair share of problems anyway so it's prob not worth the effort of converting ,just repair what's there.......
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Old 02-13-2003, 04:51   #3 (permalink)
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AOD boxes can be modified to handle lots more power, BTR can't. Still, I think that AOD's cost a lot to get modded
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:34   #4 (permalink)
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3 speed, or manual I would go.
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:09   #5 (permalink)
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Yes the AOD can be modified to be very tough. I used one behind my EFI 351w in my '66 XR Falcon....I killed it quite quickly but that was because I used a shitty shift kit and stuck with the stock 1 1/2" overdrive band.
I have a friend with an EA who has spent around $7000 on his AOD. It has one piece 300m input shaft(therefore no converter lockup),Ford racing wide ratio gearset, Lentech valvebody(TV cable delete) and raysbestos clutches, and Stallion 2800 stall. This has to withstand a 764hp blown 347 engine!
Of course the starter goes to the drivers side with this auto. This EA has a tiny High torque starter to allow the monster headers to get past.

After all that I think an AODE/4R70W is a better choice. It costs about as much to build tough but has the advantage of electronic control. You could use a '94-'95 5.0 auto Mustang EEC along with the EEC-Tuner/Tweecer to tailor shift points/line pressure etc to suit your requirements. It will also control your engine at the same time or you could spilice into the harness so it only controlled the gearbox.

A C4 is cheaper but not much if you build it super tough! My wide ratio C4 cost me $2600 to build and it's only just tough enough for the 391w it's going behind.

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Old 02-14-2003, 00:22   #6 (permalink)
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The stock V8 AOD will live behind a 5.0 for many many miles so long as the TV cable/rod is properly adjusted. Just be aware of the funny shifter gear selections - you only get L, D, OD, N, R, P. You have to do the AOD shuffle (L, D, L) to hook and hold 2nd.

I have used an AOD behind a strong 351C in an XA and it was great. But I abused it, and it repayed me by slowly dying. Behind a stock 5.0, it would be just fine.

Good luck
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Old 02-14-2003, 02:22   #7 (permalink)
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Pete...What sort of mods have been done to your C4?.Just curious as i build a few C4's myself..
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Old 02-15-2003, 02:20   #8 (permalink)
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Originally posted by gregaust
Pete...What sort of mods have been done to your C4?.Just curious as i build a few C4's myself..
Hi gregaust,

Well it's got an Art Carr wide ratio gearset (2.84 1st, 1.55 2nd), It's rollererised and a Fairbanks shift kit which we modified because it didn't do what we wanted. A Converter services converter with 2000 rpm stall.
We tested it behind my tired EFI 351C but it will be behind an EFI 391W with much much more torque!

Pete.
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