Ford Forums banner

AU II diff problems

9K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  johnmans 
G
#1 ·
Has anybody had their diff problems completely rectified? AUII xr8 has all the clunking shuttering and vibrations of previous models. New oils don't work, tried that. Centre of diff been replaced, didn't work. Has anyone got the updated diff centre, supposedley released in August according to dealer. My car has only 8000klms
and now going in to ford once again for 3rd diff centre. Also has anyone had the air conditioning hose rubbing on bonnet? SEATS has anyone had to have all their seat covers refitted?
 
G
#2 ·
My AUII XR8 diff made so much noise clatter clatter on slow corners you could hear it with the stereo on loud. They changed to Castrol and it quitened down for about 2000km, then really locked up - could turn slow corners with the rear wheels bouncing. Changed to Mobil oil + a special ford additive. Has gone well since. If any consolation, apparrently (according to dealer) holden diffs do it too!.
That hose mount - I identified it after a week from new - clamp digs itself into the bonnet. Seems there must be a whole batch of them. Went to the Ford dealer and he said "oh you've tampered with your motor" I said "yeah, I just pulled the motor out last night and put it in wrong (joke haha) - why would I do that?"
He then said "no warranty cos youve change the engine mounts"
I then walked to an XR8 in the yard and opened the drivers door.
He said "you can't do that! "
I lifted the bonnet and turned and said "whose is this car?"
He said "Its our demo"
I looked in at the clamp / bonnet. Sure enough there was bonnet damage.
I said "I suppose I tampered with you motor when you weren't looking?"
Anyway, the right clamp was put on and bonnet padding replaced as well.(both under warranty). I've since looked at many more both in NZ and Aust and guess what? All have the wrong clamp!
 
G
#3 ·
I had an AU11 XR8 & at 200 klms would clunk but only in reverse & at full lock. Dealer changed to a full synthetic oil & noise went away after 3-400klms.A couple of weeks later a 72 year old lady t-boned me at a stop sign. Actually did me a favour now i have a TE50 & guess what same noise so they still havent got it right.
 
G
#4 ·
Barney ..

I had Diff probs as well and had the full Synthetic replacement and the shudder went away. It was done at 3000kms and now has 8000kms on it and have had no probs since !
The hose I will check in the morning but I remember seeing a rub mark on the underside of the bonnet??
The seat problem has me interested as my drivers seat after 1000kms had lost the shape where the supports sit against your right leg . It cops a bit getting in and out of the car but is getting worse by the km!. Maybe if you have the same problem or similar we can get together and hit them up at the same time ! I think the padding they used is way to soft and losses its shape and is pushed down beside the seat . Not a good look and I have even ordered some custm seat covers to protect this problem even though I thought it was very por standard of trim but felt that the heart ache of a warranty claim is like root cananl therapy and they would just flop it off !.. I reckon the whole seat needs to be replaced with a heavier wadding ??

Yours and anybodys thoughts??

Dave
 
#5 ·
It actually hasnt got any side supports which is the problem. It same goes for left leg. What it needs is something what the HSV got, huge semi bucket seats. But some might dislike this specially big people getting in and out. But I think it for the XR range it does need this.
On their survey you can fill out what it needs to improve on and yes in one of my point I included the seats.
Hopefully the next model XR's have better seats.
For now, you might have just to reshape the foam around. I am not too sure if they cover the seat in the warranty for wear and tear.
 
#6 ·
Hi Barney
Just referring to your problem with the diff, I've got an EB XR8 that had the same problems: knocking &/or a slight locking up on deceleration or corners, similar to a rapid hammer clunking sound. I went to about 5 different places looking for answers but only one seemed to know what they were talking about. (If you look at past forum notes you'll find some info on this subject.) You haven't mentioned what else has been replaced in your diff because with my problem, & 90% of others the repairers have worked on, it wasn't the actual centre that was faulty, albeit he did recommend a change to 'Castrol S.A.F.X.A. LSD synthetic oil,' but the LSD cones & side gears seem to cause all the noise & he says that Ford sets the 'Backlash / Bearing preloads' incorrectly - not tight enough, this causes scoring on the units mentioned above and on slowing down a 'binding effect' causing the diff action to momentarily stick/move/stick thereby giving off a hammering sound. I had them replace all these components + new axle bearing kits & I went for a new ratio set of 3.73:1 while it was all apart. Knock on wood, but 2 years down the track everything seems fine - better than new actually. at the risk of sounding like a walking ad for these guys, but I can't recommend them enough, give BOSNJAK Engineering a call on 02-9757 2133 (unit 2/8 Blackfriar rd. Wetherill park NSW.) They also return all original equipment so you can go & show the Ford dealer what they should of been replacing. I know the EB runs a slighly different diff & minus the IRS but these guys also did the prototype work for Tickford on the EL GT, AU XR diffs years ago. Good luck.
 
#8 ·
Here is a cost breakdown, but keep in mind that this work was done late '99, pre GST.

Dissmantle, clean, inspect, fit new crown & pinion wheel set, reset pre-loads/backlash, reassemble & refit - in short LABOUR = $320.

Supply new BTR 3.73:1 c/wheel & pinion gear set = $380.(Ratio swap)

Complete centre bearings, seal, spacer, pinion nut etc + synthetic oil seal = $150.

1.8L Castrol SAFXA LSD OIL = $27.

2 x Axle bearing kits = $96.

Re-machine LSD case, fit new cones(x2), + side gears (x2), spring & shim set to 240NM = $320.

TOTAL = $1290.

If your looking at just fixing the noise, its a lot cheaper, ie: Minus the ratio swap, & you may or may not need some of the parts I've listed. I did it all because I plan on keeping the car. Shop around but be wary, I had quotes from $1200-$1600 but these guys said I'd have Buckley's of swapping ratios unless I changed the diff housing to EA!!! It turns out that they all used second hand gear ratios from Skylines (3.55:1) - the same garbage they use on modified Crappadores. One guy quoted me $500 the lot (including the zoom gears) but he went bust - nothing to do with his prices, just 'workmanship.' The guys at Bos Eng. were more than happy to supply me all the info (part numbers /brands/advice) of what was required, should I have someone else I preferred to do the work, but I stuck with them & am happy with the results. PS: they also return all the parts replaced & show you the new internals BEFORE closing up the diff housing.
 
#10 ·
They quote about 8 hours for the diff job this includes all replacements/ reassemble. Bedding in - We then drove the car for 30min retensioned everything, checked fluid levels & for any leaks. All in all, I dropped the car off at 8:30am & was on the road back to Canberra at 5:30pm.
Yes I had to get the speedo recalibrated. With the 3.45:1 swap a small transfer clip can be installed by the guys ($25), but 3.73:1 (like mine)& up, an instrument specialist will be needed. Cost me $200 ($100 for the speedo & $100 for the odometer.) But I'm sure its cheaper in Sydney - had mine done in Canberra, took about 3HRS.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top