About 2 monts ago I installed an EB T5 into my EA.
The price of a S/H box ranges from $500-$800, including all the little things needed for the conversion, and add another $400-$500 for installation cost.
I did the conversion myself, and unless you have a good mechanical knowledge, I'd suggest against you doing it yourself.
The dash will also need to come out for the pedal box install, and the clutch sensor will need to be connected to the ECU, as well as the neutral starter circuit bypassed.
i have no great mechanical experience, but the crucial part of the swap is getting your hands a good box.
A mechanic friend of mine did a swap over a year ago on a EF XR6, the owner of the car supplied the box, which once installed had no reverse, even though it was "tested and guaranteed" from where he had bought it from...
He went back to the place, and they didnt want to know anything about it.. so he had to go find another box.. once the new box was installed... there was something wrong with first gear.
out it came again.. and in the end it ended up costing a packet to rebuild the box using parts from both... i cant remember all up how much money the dude had to fork out... but ill get back to ya...
also, like Bass Crazy said.. you have to change something in the computer.. which in this case involved getting a different power chip from the auto to manual.
Originally posted by SUPERCHARGEDEB Stay auto, put 3.9s and do some auto work.
nah im 99% sure I want a manual..its seems to me its too much trouble to do the conversion..i would be willing to pay 1500 all up, but if you have to bugger around with the computer and all the rest im not sure its worth it..
as for the 3.9..ive been told to steer clear!
i thought the 4.0 with a manual would be better that the 3.9 anyway.
__________________ FOR SALE: EA/ED |T5| |2.5' Zorts| |15' EF XR'S| |AU Thermo's| |XR cosmetics|
Advertised as $4000ono. Price is negiotable for a quick sale.
I think the "3.9" suggested was meant to be a differential gear ratio, not the engine type, even though there is minimal difference between the 3.9L and 4.0L.
I made a comment about hooking the clutch up to the ECU. This does not require the changing of your ECU from an auto to a manual. The auto ECU will run the manual gearbox, but not vice versa.
If you have a peek under your dash, you will find a gray plug (female connector). This connects the clutch sensor directly to your ecu, giving it the ability to change between acceleration and deceleration modes. However, the car will stil run even without this hooked up.
I picked up a perfect condition box S/H, with a brand new clutch etc and I have had not an ounce of trouble, guess its just the luck of the draw hey.
You might want to check out reco prices if ur concerned.
In my opinion, if you are after a good performing EA-ED 6cyl, without forced induction, you will be shooting yourself in the foot by keeping it auto.
I did a few mods to my car when it was auto and still had a hard time beating V6 commos. Since the manual, beating a V6 commo is an easy task..
Originally posted by Bass Crazy In my opinion, if you are after a good performing EA-ED 6cyl, without forced induction, you will be shooting yourself in the foot by keeping it auto.
Couldn't agree more, and i have to say although EF-EL in auto are quick enough to out gun commodores having them in a manual makes a difference.
Also makes em a good sleeper at the lights. :s6: :s6:
Gotta say you've done top job converting an auto to a manual, i definitly couldn't do that sort of thing.
Motor May 2001 Quote: "Believe it or not, there are actually a bunch of weirdos out there who reckon a six cylinder is the dux gutz. Bugger it: I'm one of them" :s5
AUII Late Ed XR6 HP T5 Venom- Full Tickford Body Kit, 17in Wheels, Herrod Bi-plane Spoiler, Momo Steer/Gear, T-Series Interior Options, Premium Stereo and a very light-tuned 4.0L I6
(FPV-Tickford Club of NSW Member and Co-Founding Member of 3FB Inc, Ford Forums Food Bandits)
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