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Old 04-28-2004, 06:07   #41 (permalink)
 
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

I heard from someone that when you put a resistor in, to trick the ECU into the thinking the manual is in neutral all the time isnt actually a good thing. Becuase the ECU wont know when its at load,etc.
Im not sure on the whole concept though, help us out?
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Old 04-28-2004, 07:43   #42 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

Far as I know, on the I6 it doesn't need to know any more than box temp and gear selected. The ECU is fairly independent of the box computer. Load is calculated off WOT and gear, used to determine kickdown.
Timing is regulated by the knock sensor, injector timing runs off that. Injector pulse is controlled by the ECU based on WOT, timing, MAP, and engine temperature.


On another note, a few people have asked me now about fooling the EL computer. I will post it here.


To fool the EL computer, use a 1/4watt 7.5 Kohm resistor between pin 30 (pink/green) and pin 46 (black/white). This will make the ECU think the auto's permanently in Neutral.
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Old 05-03-2004, 22:35   #43 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

hey mate when i did my conversion on me xf ghia i had to change the crossmember as the manual box sits slightly further back
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Old 05-20-2004, 21:20   #44 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

I finally got some spare cash to do this conversion.. How much will it cost me all up to do the whole job properly. A mate and I will be doing it ourselves
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Old 05-21-2004, 10:22   #45 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

Depends on how much you pay for the conversion

Installation costs are basically transmission fluid, maybe a rear seal while it's easy.
The conversion itself - dunno about prices over east, but I'd expect to pay better than a grand at the wreckers, or about a grand, give or take a few hundred, for a complete manual car (wrecked/unlicenced). So allow $2k if you do all the work, as you may find you need to replace clutch cables, clutch plates, etc. Also consider welding, or having welded, the firewall where the cable goes through as it is known to crack under the stress after a few years.
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Old 05-23-2004, 19:14   #46 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by mongrelEB
Far as I know, on the I6 it doesn't need to know any more than box temp and gear selected. The ECU is fairly independent of the box computer. Load is calculated off WOT and gear, used to determine kickdown.
Timing is regulated by the knock sensor, injector timing runs off that. Injector pulse is controlled by the ECU based on WOT, timing, MAP, and engine temperature.


On another note, a few people have asked me now about fooling the EL computer. I will post it here.


To fool the EL computer, use a 1/4watt 7.5 Kohm resistor between pin 30 (pink/green) and pin 46 (black/white). This will make the ECU think the auto's permanently in Neutral.

Why would you want to do that I am running the auto computer and it runs fine - will the car run better if I did this mod. What would it achieve.
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Old 06-09-2004, 01:47   #47 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

mongral eb what resistor would I use to make the ecu think its in DRIVE. and would I connect it to the wires from the main wiring loom?
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Old 06-26-2004, 17:56   #48 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

will making the ecu think its in drive make the car perform any different? i take it this means the car will start no hassles?
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Old 06-27-2004, 19:01   #49 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

The Car will start - and from what I've been told making the ECU think the Auto in Drive will be better for power and driving.
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Custom Grind Wade Cam (Stage 4)
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2.5'' Mandrel bent exhaust,
Red Back Muffler
Hi-Flo Cat,
Powerchip 98Ron (custom)
T5 Manual Conversion
17'' Amg Quakes
Pedders Ultra Low Suspension
Monroe GT Gas Reflex Shocks
SS Induction
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Internal Lighting etc

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Old 06-27-2004, 19:21   #50 (permalink)
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Re: Auto to manual conversion guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by ftr_el
...and from what I've been told making the ECU think the Auto in Drive will be better for power and driving.

how true is that? if i was to make the ecu think it was in drive and short the neutral saftey switch, would the car still start?
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