After saying previously that mine auto has never given me a problem, a week later it did, its worn out, so ok time for a rebuild, now that i have found out all i need to know, i am passing it on to anyone who is interested.
Parts needed for complete rebuild of my transmission are
1 seal kit $110
1 Front band $30
1 Rear band $60
1 Full clutch Kit $60
I personally am going to rebuild my transmission myself, the way i see it, i can rebuild the transmission at least 5 times for the cost of getting someone else to do it.
The most common cause of auto problems are loss of oil pressure, which is normally caused by seals or for BTR's can be caused be checkballs and sometimes solonoids, but normally when solonoids are faulty they are stuck in high pressure mode's not low, so unless one is seized into low pressure than it shouldn't cause the transmission to burn out anything.
AU solonoids arn't necessarily better, and neither are holden ones, they are both used because they are cheaper. and it all depends on wether or not you are running an electronic shift kit.
structuly the auto's from EA to BA are all extremely similar, drums, clutches, bands are all the same, the only main differences are after EA the band adjustments were replaced with shim adjusters so the box has to be adjusted from in the pan, and changes to the valve body, as far as i know each different version of le has a different valve body, some are interchangable some are not. But primarily the valve bodies all work the same, and apply the same pressures to clutch's/bands.
V8's have a different S3 and S4 solonoids in them which apply higher pressure to clutch's and bands.
If there is any other diffences that people are aware of then please add in.
EA Turbo Clone. Instead of replacing the front band with a standard new band, why dont you use the latest material on offer. They used to use Kevlar but that ends up glazing the drum, now there is a new carbon material that is being used. If your interested email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Why change to a different material when the standard one was doing fine, the auto that was in my car had come out of a taxi, it had been reco'd previously but i doubt that the front band was replaced, they normally only replace what they have too.
I guess it depends on how much power you want to put thru it. The new carbon band has a higher friction rating so it should be able to make more torque and may be more durable. I'm looking at putting as much power thru that box as possible.
This is part of where people go wrong, bands don't normally cause much problem as long as they are treated correctly, i'm not sure on this new carbon band you have been talking about, but i know that the robesto's bands do glaze the drums and require higher pressure in order to grip, so they increase the pressure on the band for the robestos band and then next thing you know you've broken the drum, so this is why i would rather stick to standard bands, besides the auto in my car i haven't ever seen another one of these boxes with a worn out front band, and normally they don't replace them when they reco them, because they don't need to replace them, which shows me that they are long lasting.
I understand your point of wanting to make the transmission as strong as possible, but from my experience one thing leads to another and before you know it its costing lots more than one that would have been able to handle the power you have anyway.
The engine will be able to do 500 to 600+ rwhp. I know the BA turbos are now putting this much thru the BTR 4sp, but dont know how reliably(Nizpro and APS). The BTR doesn't seem to be as weak as once thought so I guess I will be going thru a few transmissions on the way to fixing its weak points.
Also I'm going to be increasing line pressure by loading up the line pressure relief valve with about 4mm of washers. This will put the trans in limp mode. Would you have any idea what size resister and where I would have to put it on the wire that leads to the S5 solenoid to keep it out of limp mode.
First of all i would just disconnect the S5 solonoid all together and resistively load the computer, just look up in the ford manual to see what the load should be and place that on it, second of all i definietly would not increase the oil pressure inside these boxes, there is absolutely no need to, if you want more oil pressure than change the S3 and S4 to the V8 ones, if you run my shift kit in it, then a stock tranny should easily be able to hold down that sort of power with no other mods, that is if the tranny is in good working order.
I have spoken to many different transmission shops, and performance auto rebuilders, and every one of them has said that when they have tried to increase the pressure inside them, it leads to the drums breaking or B1 return valve popping out.
on the subject of 85le, 91le, 93le, 95le, 98le, i have it on good word that there is definitly no differences in the drums, or working internals for that matter. In the later model boxes they have changed the valve body's, including solonoid changes, but line pressures have stayed the same with the exception for the V8 boxes. And many of these boxes are holding down power level's around what your talking.
Now with my car i just put in another transmission, I went to pick a part, and found 2 newly rebuilt transmission's there, without even looking through a quarter of the cars, i pull the box out and found it also had a brand new stall converter in it, i paid $117 for it with warranty.
Its now in the car, and it changes beautifully, nice hard tyre slipping changes, and all up it has cost me is $171 with oil and filter, not bad i think.
Now i would suggest that you go and find yourself a nice second hand transmission from pick a part or so, really cheap and stick it behind your motor, do my shift kit and see how ya go. Because what have you got to lose if it doesn't handle it, but what do you lose if you increase the pressure and a drum, or the oil return valve on B1 pack it in?
Basically my version of an electronic shift kit is very simple, you cut the wires to solonoids 3 and 4 and load the computer to the cars gnd so that it still thinks that the solonoids are still connected.
I don't personally see any reason to swap your box, if it's working fine give it regular servicing and it should go allright for a good time yet, just run a shift kit so that it will handle the 160rwkw's you plan to put through it, the last auto in my car went about 6 months after i put the turbo in before i bothed to do a shift kit, it used to slip bad through changes until the computer turn off solonoids 3 and 4 and then it would bang into gear. At the end i decided to put a shift kit in because the auto was starting to get really bad, after i installed the shift kit, i got about another 4 months use out of it before i had worn out band 1, which is used for second gear, which basically would have already been worn out when i put the shift kit in. The auto i had purchased s/h and it came out of a taxi.
My new auto i got s/h from pick a part for 117 which also had a reco touque converter in it, it changes very nice now.
There auto's are strong, so i don't see the need to go and waste money on them.
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