northiam

Im dropping a 351 clevo into my XA which was a six cylinder 250, along with the FMX and 9inch diff I borrowed from a ZH fairlane. Questions: As I have the engine on the stand at the moment should I assemble the engine to the transmission and drop it in altogether or separately starting which the transmission? What radiator setup is best? I take it I have to cut the radiator engine bay front wall to accomodate the crossflow radiator or does an XY GT radiator fit in the gap? What would you suggest I run the transmission cooler lines it steel tubing or rubber? All comments would be a great help. Cheers

travis_ham

i would be interested to find out to as one day ill be making the transplant to a 351 though i guesse mine will be easier as im already running a 302

Soxx

I find it's a lot easier to fit the engine first, then tranny.
Have the bellhousing and clutch assembly fitted and lined up with the engine out though.

Rick.

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4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?

STROKEXD

I actually do it the other way around - fit the gearbox first and support it on a cradle.

I replaced my steel trans lines with Goodyear Ortrac hose - 3/8 diameter, very heavy duty and I got a neater looking layout with it than the standard steel lines.

Go for the XA type radiator with a new core design - C/T core - any decent radiator place will be able to make you one up for a decent cost.

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siwren

I did exactly the same thing a few months ago and it isn't that difficult.
I dropped the engine/gearbox in together, you just need to get the back up as high as possible and the front as low as possible.

things to note:

The accelerator pedal wasn't the same in my car and required me to swap the linkages over.
If you have a floor shifter, it isn't the same as the C4/FMX and you need a replacement.
Yes, you'll need to cut the front wall to fit the radiator and you need the cross flow brackets.

The wiring harness is different and will need some creative cutting/splicing to fit.

Haven't changed the diff, but you'll need to find a suitable driveshaft as the fairlanes is too long and the 6's is a little too short (for B/W diff).

There were a few other little fiddly things, but I can't remember them all.

Any questions, just PM me.

Simon

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paull

Come on fella's, read the post!! It's an auto not a manual. Therefore, do as StrokedXD said to.
1 Install auto trans (FMX) with help, as these are heavy bastards of things.
2 Put the gearbox mount in place but do not bolt up just yet. Support the gearbox underneath the pan
3 It's up to you whether or not you bolt the torque converter on first or leave till later, my choice, put the converter in first (onto gearbox input shaft) and ensure that it goes in the '3' steps, that is, it has three splines as such to line up with.
4 Install auto trans cooler lines, once again, do as Stroked XD says with the rubber lines
5 Install engine and bolt up to transmission bell housing making sure that you line up the 4 bolt holes for the torque converter to the flex plate (if you can afford it, go for a new flex plate, $130, if the ring gear even looks ratty). Aslo, make sure that the torque converter has not popped out. Best thing to do here is to watch very closely ensuring that as you put the engin in place you do not crush the flex plate and torque converter. This is a very good way of destroying your transmission oil pump.
6 When engine is in place, bolt up trans mount. From memory I think it the last bolt holes (there are 3 locations for bolting up. C4 is shorter).
7 Once again for the radiator, as Stoked XD states, much better than the XY one.

Paul

xdc351

Personally I always assemble everything prior to installing it.

I've never had a problem installing them either, just a matter of creatively bolting the engine to the crane and adjusting the angles correctly.... and I reckon its far easier than trying to align things when your under the car too.

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xacoupe

I am with greg .. all as one, once it's in then its just a matter of doing up bolts.. not trying to make things fit together

STROKEXD

Just like to add if your panel and paint are all schmick then it does get pretty hairy dropping in a clevo and auto all in one hit, can be done for sure, but in my view less risks of scratching/denting to put in the box first then do the motor.

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northiam

Opinion is pretty mixed!!! As I'm not sure about the angle of decent, garage ceiling clearance or the weight on the hired engine hoist I,II go with trans first then donk. The rubber trans cooler lines are they just hose clamped ends or swaged proper? Can I use the ZH radiator mounts which fit on main chassis rails?? Would you use the radiator trans cooler or go aircooled in front of radiator? Im swapping over the power steering setup to the XA (once of had power steering you cant live without it) the lines and brackets and rusted quite bad, can you replace these in rubber or can you get new replacements or can u buy steel tubing and make yourself?? I have a spare EB radiator anyone fitted one to a XA,B,C. Cheers