have bad slipping from my clutch ,with only 88,000km on the clock
which setup will suit best for my EF XR8 with 204rwkw am only getting best 15.20second 1/4 mile(each run got worse) has a 3.23diff -will be increasing power closer to the 250rwkw soon as bank allows- would think low 14s with good heavy duty clutch will a heavy duty be fine once increased to 250rwkw(hopeful in the 13s)
EF should have had a 3.45 diff? If it is 3.23, I would drop it to 3.45 or 3.73. This should improve times, and protect the box. You are already right on the limit for that gearbox, I would not expect to get 250 rwkw through it for very long at all>
__________________
If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
EF has the BW T5 ... any more kW and you will break stuff
look into the AU/BA Tremec5, the BA Tremec56, or if for basically the same money Tremec TKO 500 and TKO 600. the last two definately will handly your application.
as for your diff i am pretty sue it should be a 3.45, unless somebody threw and old diff center into it, which i couldnt see why, but if you consider upgrading you diff look into a 3.7 or 3.9 center from the skylines R31 and VL commies.
I have a 3.7 LSD and it awsome, the 3.7 center matches the Tremec5 very well in relation totransmission gearing. I only gained 100rpm at 100km in 5th gear over my old setup
as for clutch, there are several options i have come across, the AU XR8 clutch is a fairly good clutch, and teh cheapest of the performance clutches, complete assembly cost me $500, next was a single high performance clutch kit (i forgot the name) for $800 and last was a custom build twin clutch setup from bissy for 2g, comes with custom flywheel, pressure plate etc
oh and you should definetaly run into the 14s if not further, if i get it managed to run a 15flat with pissy 139kW at treads (dont put too much weight on those performance figures of mine)
An EF with genuine 204rwkw would get you into the low 14's easily. Think about it thats XR6-T power in a car thats 1500kg odd.
Depends how gentle you are with the gearbox and avoid full rev dumps will prolong the transmission.
__________________
Motor May 2001 Quote: "Believe it or not, there are actually a bunch of weirdos out there who reckon a six cylinder is the dux gutz. Bugger it: I'm one of them" :s5
AUII Late Ed XR6 HP T5 Venom- Full Tickford Body Kit, 17in Wheels, Herrod Bi-plane Spoiler, Momo Steer/Gear, T-Series Interior Options, Premium Stereo and a very light-tuned 4.0L I6
(FPV-Tickford Club of NSW Member and Co-Founding Member of 3FB Inc, Ford Forums Food Bandits)
As stated already.. I would be looking at a new gearbox to handle that sort of power.
But in the mean time if you have 204 RwKw then you should be looking at running a twin plate clutch assembly. I got mine from Mal Wood in Qld.
With 204 RwKw you should already be into the 13sec bracket on the 1/4.
I currently have around 212RwKw and have run a best of 13.485 so far.... this time also has room for improvement.
A change in diff ratio will also help you out with better times.
What Mph are you currently clocking across the line??
FUSE: twon plate clutch is not always teh best solution for 250kW i would say there are still quite a few single plate options available which will have more driveability than teh twin plate. with the twin plate i would be looking at 300kW or more and you loose a lot of driveability
FUSE: twon plate clutch is not always teh best solution for 250kW i would say there are still quite a few single plate options available which will have more driveability than teh twin plate. with the twin plate i would be looking at 300kW or more and you loose a lot of driveability
Your experience based on?
__________________
If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
with the twin plate i would be looking at 300kW or more and you loose a lot of driveability
Ok, there may be some single plate options around... just my opinion that a twin plate is a lot more 'fail safe' particularly if it's going to get a lot of abuse at the drags.
As for drivability... well modern setups aren't like the days of old, I find mine very good for drivability, the pressure plate has more to do with drivability IMHO. My pressure plate had quite a bit of work done to move hinging? points around to give a lighter feeling whilst retaining a high clamping force. Result being a clutch pedal that is perhaps 2X as heavy as my dads BAXR6 but has a much better progressive feel.
I've had no problem driving around in peak hour Melbourne traffic...
My advice is to stay away from puk clutches... they are a b&%ch in traffic... generally on or off thats it!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
for 250kW i would say there are still quite a few single plate options available which will have more driveability than teh twin plate. with the twin plate i would be looking at 300kW or more and you loose a lot of driveability
Linear Mode
