Need advise on clutch for toploader. Its going behind 393 stroker clev around 500hp . I have used twin plates before but not many people say anything about them .So I am not sure if twin plate will be enough . I have seen alot of ads with hays 11 inch street strip but also heard they don't handle 450 plus hp.prefer to use standard twin plate if it will handle it without slipping.
Please any help,stories or advise would help
Thanks
Need advise on clutch for toploader. Its going behind 393 stroker clev around 500hp . I have used twin plates before but not many people say anything about them .So I am not sure if twin plate will be enough . I have seen alot of ads with hays 11 inch street strip but also heard they don't handle 450 plus hp.prefer to use standard twin plate if it will handle it without slipping.
Please any help,stories or advise would help
Thanks
I destroyed my only twin plate in a fortnight, it was completely useless!
Got a button clutch, handles anything I can throw at it time and time again... only problem is trying to launch gently in the wet as they are pretty much on or off.
Other than that this thing has survived 3 easternats and a drag day (plus all the street use) and I would not hesitate getting another one.
Some of them won't have a marcel carrier (springs in the middle of the clutch disc) which absorbs the shock after releasing the clutch.......may cause some chatter when releasing the clutch (ok for racing but daily street can be a hassel). The coefficient of friction is very high on these clutch discs, so the pressure plate doesn't need high clamping forces like on an organic style set up.
I would go an 11" HD pressure plate and a good quality organic plate. Seen two cars with this set up recently with 520RWHP and no problems. Buttons are a waste of time, and cerametallics are very hard on flywheels and pressure plates in traffic.
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If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
An 11" clutch single plate is the go as stated above. A twin plate lasted 2/10th's of bugger all behind XBWGN's 163rwkw XB coupe. The 11" clutch is doing very well, it's been to the track (drag strip) a few times now.
I have a 11" that was sold to me by Ford Muscle Parts Sydney tp replace a twin plate. No problems with the pressure plate or clutch plate but the clutch pedal is very heavy and I replaced the master cylinder a few years ago which started to leak under the pressure of the load is has to push.
Now the car has done very few kays but the master cylinder is making a crack sound when depressing the pedal and its hard to change gears and the pedal take up point is right down at the floor. No fluid lost and the slave cylinder is actuating Ok. Seems the master cylinder has let go again.
Someone said I need a bigger master cylinder or smaller slave cylinder to make the pedal lighter. Looking at the master it only has 1/8" clearance to the side of the brake power booster tank so looks like a bigger bore master cylinder is unlikely.
Any tips on how to get a lighter pedal? This thing is so heavy it gives me a sore hip ad its slip into neutral at the lights. What size should the slave cylinder be on my XD 351 with top loader?
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The cop said "Do you know why I pulled you over". I said " Well, that all depends on how long you have been following me!"
Should be OK there, tony xa. Just remember to run your new clutch in before you let her rip. It sometimes take a little while for a new clutch disc plate to lose its glossy new surface. I dumped mine last month and it spun the clutch really fast before I could back it off - don't want to glaze it. I would still go a billet flywheel and good ARP bolts.
ESP Man, didn't know you could get different size slave cylinders, thought it was just a "ford v8" size. Mine is very firm, but the sore hip??? How was it when you first replaced the master cylinder? Does your clutch fork have full clearance? they can get close to extractors at full throw. What condition is the tubing for the fluid - squashed anywere?
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