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EB Diff problem

3K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  plough 
#1 ·
I just sold my long loved VL turbo 5 speed and bought a July 1991 5lt EB Auto. The diff is giving me a little trouble. Its meant to be a LSD I think? If I tramp it from a standing start, 50% of the time only 1 wheel will spin but the other times both will spin and leave the tell tail 2 shorter mark as it should I guess. When lighting it up on a corner only the wheel with the less weight will spin.
So is my diff in need of repair?
I thought I would change the oil in the diff. I got my trusty Repco parts ID book and looked up my ford model and it states "Reduced slip diff " Is there a difference between a reduced slip diff compaired to a LSD?

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Greetings plough

To answer part of your question, limited slip and reduced slip should be interchangable terms. Limited slip does not necissarily mean guaranteed lock up - it's limited slip as opposed to no slip.

It may pay to change the fluid in there. LSDs as im sure you're aware have a unique fluid which assists the lock up. It may have been filled with the incorrect fluid?

A mechanic told me a nasty trick for LSD's that are on their way out - drain a bit of LSD fluid out and put in some regular Dexron III... apparantley makes fluid lock up much easier. I wouldnt recommend it tho, lol.

Good to see you got rid of that Holden, i mean nissan, i mean holden.

Just jokes ;)
 
#3 ·
from my experience the e series had a softer lsd effect(my EB XR6 did not suffer this though)
it can be tightened up by some one who knows what they're doing(diff joint)
it may also be cos you've got too much body roll(lowered cut springs, stuffed shocks, standard springs etc)
if you keep spinning one whell you'll blow it up anyway (fix it or fix the problem causing it or don't spin the wheels[not really an option in a burnout comp])
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the replies.
I have since changed the oil ( it took about 2 hours to drain) and there is no difference in the performance. In the wet or on gravel, both wheels will spin. But it is still the same when having a standing start and also when tramping it around a roundabout only the light wheel will spin. Hpefully someone here may know if there is an adjustment that I can do myself with the diif housing off?
 
#7 ·
Hi OED666
The oil was black and thick. It looked burned or very old to me. There is a towbar on the car so the diff probably had some weight on it at some stage in its life. The car only had 155,000k on the clock, but they were probablly a hard 155klm. I had the GB replaced not long ago as the bearing failed in 1st gear after racing a motorbike through town. I will never forget the painfull sound the GB made when it happened or the spine tingleing jolt when it changed to second gear and never ever moved from second gear again. Or handing over my credit card to pay for the rebuild.
As for the type of oil I replaced it with , it was what ford recommended for this particular diff.
 
#8 ·
the LSD centre should be ok i guess.. Mines out of an V8 XD, so it would have copped a bit from that, and then it was in Rollins car, and now mine... and let me assure you, I make sure the LSD works each and every day... :angel:

Most likely the best thing would be to get it rebuilt i guess. Not being from down your way i dont know anyone to rebuild it down there. Before i got mine rebuilt it was a bit sloppy, but i am sure it was always kicking 2 wheels.

the only outside chance i can think of is that the centre could have been replaced with a hydra-trak centre, and thats what they sorta do when they play up...

but thats an EXETREMELY rare chance, as it didnt have a hydra-trak from the factory...
 
#9 ·
Are you sure it's an LSD? It would be an option on your car (unless it's an XR8, did they exist in July 91?).

Did the diff have a tag saying "Use high performance oil only" (I think that's what it says, something like that) behind the drain plug?

It's not that hard to get the open wheelers limoing, I the have videos to prove that.
 
#11 ·
If you have a torque wrench there's some way to check it.

Off the top of my head; jack up one wheel, whack the wrench on a wheel nut, see how many NMs it takes to spin the wheel.

If you've got a torque wrench I'll check the exact value, if not, I won't waste my time :p
 
#12 ·
There is a "limslip" additive you can get from some parts stores. I believe that Penrite is one company that makes it. If you're desperate your nearest Jeep dealer will sell the additive but it will obviously cost more. All the Jeeps have this added in addition to the GL-5 rated oil. If this doesn't work then the cones are most likely rooted.
 
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