It seems that the I6 manual conversion process is well documented in The Garage, but V8 information is a lot less common. I've done a few searches, and come up with very little. Not being able to search for V8 (too few letters) doesn't help either. Help, suggestions and other useful information would be very much appreciated. Anyway, moving along.
The car is a 1991 EB V8 Fairmont Ghia. I've collected a clutch & flywheel assembly, and a bellhousing & T5. I am looking for a pedal box and clutch cable at the moment. Now for my questions.
The T5 is (allegedly) out of an EA S pack (reverse gear ratio is 3.4:1, 1st gear is 3.5:1 so it's sounds right). I've measured the input shaft length that protrudes out past the V8 bellhousing/block surface of the bellhousing (by putting a stright edge accross the front of the bellhousing). This is about 6-8mm. My friend has a top loader in his falcon and the engine is out so I measured the input shaft protrusion distance in the same way, and got the same number (6-8mm). So I'm thinking that the gearbox will work. Now this seems to conflict with some information presented in other threads, so I'm looking for some comparable measurements from a known V8 T5 gearbox. Can anybody help here? I'd like to know the "protrusion distance (as described above), as well as some measurements with the bellhousing off the gearbox. From the front surface of the gearbox, what is the input shaft length, what is the bearing retainer length.
Are there any mods that I need to perform to the computer or wiring when I replace the electronic auto trans? I know the trans has a seperate computer, but does the trans computer "talk" to the engine computer?
Will the auto driveshaft fit for length and spline count?
Some one has tried to put a I6 t5 into a V8 and the input shaft didnt reach to the thrust bearing and basically didnt work. When I did my I6 to V8 motor conversion I wanted to use my old T5 but found out the input shaft was different.
I dont know if the measurements that you got were correct because we took some measurements from a mustang T5 and compared it to my old I6 and the I6 input shaft was definatly shorter.
By the way are you using a bellhousing and flywheel from a late model V8?
did you say you're using the EA Spack 5speed in a EB v8? dont know if i'd trust that. i'm pretty sure the V8s got slightly different(i.e. stronger) T5s than the sixes. can anyone else confirm this?
i had someone do my conversion for me, coz i didnt trust my own abilities, and let me tell you its more than worth it. car handling improved immensely(because of engine braking bringing the weight bac kto neutral when you let your foot off).. plus it jsut made it such a great car to drive. i **** my car out a bit by letting other folk drive it, and everyone has loved it.(and most people that drive it are holden fans!)
i've heard stories about the auto and manual driveshafts being different lengths, but i might be confused over the BTR/AOD auto lengths issue, i've also heard that all man and auto driveshafts are exactly the same length. i think the spline count is okay tho.
as far as the ecu goes, i've been told you can use the auto's ecu without major dramas, but you'd be better getting a manual ecu(rare find, if its an 8) coz i think it controls idle better or something. once again, can people confirm this? (is it true tht the revs are supposed to drop to 1300 or so for a second, then back to idle, to help smooth shifts?)
i supposedly have the manual ecu in my car, but it idles at 500-600 revs and sometimes stalls coz the revs drop fast and the ecu cant recover quick enough. might be a idlespeedcontroller thing tho, or i need to adjust base idle speed.
also, make sure you have the cruise/clutch switch on the pedal box, coz you'll want that.
cogo_81 thanks, yes I'm using a 50oz-in imbalance flywheel and pressure plate from a 95 mustang, and an aussie ford aluminium V8 bellhousing. The bellhousing and gearbox were behind a clevo when I purchased, though I never got to take the car for a spin.
The measurements I've taken "seem" to indicate that the input shaft length is the same as a toploader, so should work OK. But I'm needing some reassurance.....
EA T5 input shaft is toploader length, is too short and can't be modified. Box will not be strong enough anyway. 50oz F/W is correct, but as it will be small diameter I doubt the starter will work. Your cleveland B/H probably has a two bolt starter on the drivers' side, and was running a large diameter F/W. Injected Windsor in Australia ran a 3 bolt starter on the passenger side.
With the correct B/H and box the shifter position, crossmember and tailshaft will be right. With what you have, other problems aside, all these will be wrong.
If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
Thanks WBT56, just the info I needed. Yes, the B/H is for a 164 tooth flywheel and my flywheel is indeed 157 tooth. Thanks for pointing that out before I tried any installation work.
I do have an aluminium 1995 mustang B/H that I may modify by shortening up to the cleveland B/H size. This would overcome the starter motor issue. Or, should I approach it the other way, and get a 1994-1995 V8 mustang T5 input shaft and front bearing retainer from USA and swap them over? Then I could run the unmodified B/H.
Now the box stregth question. What makes a V8 T5 stronger than a I6 T5?
The application is my daily driver, not my race car. I have an XA Falcon for that purpose. The gearbox will not be subjected to clutch dumps at 5000RPM, just normal mainly country road driving to and from work.
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