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Old 04-08-2003, 00:18   #1 (permalink)
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EL clutch dramas

Somethings wrong with the clutch. I can only put it into first with the engine running, and when i drive every time a change gears i have to reeaf on the stick and it makes a HUGE clunk. I can hardly drive the danm thing, it stalls so easy I had to ride the clutch nearly all the way home.

I initialy thought that the cable has snapped but that's not the case. I tried adjusting the nut which comes out of the firewall but that didn't work. I'm running out of time and patience. Any ideas guys?
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Old 04-08-2003, 02:25   #2 (permalink)
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me 2 ford cant even build a fu--ing clutch system that works nether can the clutch company ford quoted me trade $700 for an xr8 clutch so i orded 1 from summit usa ford racing cost me $370 del to aust u need a new clutch matey
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Old 04-08-2003, 02:27   #3 (permalink)
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Your symptoms are contra-indicative. Need more information. Explain how it wants to stall?
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Old 04-08-2003, 03:20   #4 (permalink)
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Until you said it was stalling, I woulda said ya needed a new clutch plate.....
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:24   #5 (permalink)
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There is no travel in the pdeal and the padal has moved to the left. It stalls easy because as there is no trvale in the padel the clutch is half engaged when the pdal is fully depressed, so it's half under load before i even start.

becasue the padel has gone to the left (i dont even have enough room to fit my foot between the pedal and the transmission tunnel) could there be something in the pedal box broken which the pedal is attached onto?
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Switchable Shift Kit, K&N panel filter, Lukey straight thru mufflers, momo gear and steer,
DBA slotted rotors/Bendix ultimate pads (front), Pioneer MP3 head unit and BA XR carpet mats.

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Old 04-08-2003, 15:07   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like the top of the pedal mount (weld) at the clutch pivot point is broken away. Slide under the s/wheel with a torch and check it out.
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Old 04-08-2003, 15:10   #7 (permalink)
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Clutch should still be OK you just have no pressure on springs and plate to release through the cable from pedal to g/box. Same thing happended to my XR6 and heaps of other guys on here.
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Old 04-08-2003, 19:30   #8 (permalink)
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Almost certainly as AJ said.
If the pivot mounting plate isn't to far gone, you can drill a couple of holes thru it and the main assembly and bolt it back into place, I had this done to mine, from memory it has 4 or 5 nut/bolts holding it all together now and cost me about $50 for someone to do it.

The other alternative is to remove the pedal box (big expensive job) and have it welded.
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Old 04-09-2003, 00:56   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJ's XR
Sounds like the top of the pedal mount (weld) at the clutch pivot point is broken away. Slide under the s/wheel with a torch and check it out.
That's exactly what has happened. I thought maybe the circlip might have broke but I got a torch and had a look under the steering column after i got home from work and unfortunately you are right, the pivot has broken off form the weld.

Kieron: how can you tell if the mouting plate isnt too far gone? I really don't feel like forking out hundreds of dollars on a new pedal box and the labour charges that come with it.
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1999 AU XR8
14.594 @ 94.40mph
152.2RWKW (APS dyno)
Switchable Shift Kit, K&N panel filter, Lukey straight thru mufflers, momo gear and steer,
DBA slotted rotors/Bendix ultimate pads (front), Pioneer MP3 head unit and BA XR carpet mats.

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Old 04-09-2003, 01:25   #10 (permalink)
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The dreaded pedal box syndrome. I found it easier to get a repair shop to fix this, They used a whole heap of towels & soaked everything with a spraygun.
they did the Pedal pivot & its lasted 2 yrs without any dramas. Then the freaking firewall pulled thru where the cable mounts too. Another plate welded to it & alls fixed & stronger than before . Pedal pivot cost me $70 followed by the re-enforcing plate $120
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