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well, the previous owner (grrr i dont like him any more!!) thought he was doing the car a favour and when the old clutch wore out he put in a heavy duty one (WTF for?!?!?! its a NA XR6!!! not a blown big block!!!)
this at 100,000km
1 bought the car at 110,000km and it now has 128,000km on it.
since i bought it the 'fingers' on the clutch lever have opened twice, the firewall actually started TEARING where the cable goes though it, and the little thingo that holds the cable at the peadal box end of the car has spread twice as well, last night at 12:00 and now today straight after i band-aided it so i could drive to get parts tomorrow.
the spot welds for the clutch pedal pivot have also started to tear off, so now the pedal is on an angle and at the bottom of its travel it hits on the pedal box.
so tomorrow i am getting a new pedal box and clutch cable (its the only thing in the whole system that hasnt shat itself yet).
i am expecting it to be very expensive and painfull to fit.
the actual point of this post is to find out if there ever was a vehicle fitted with a T5 gearbox that had a hydraulic clutch setup, because i am dead set on converting the bloody car and i need to find compatible parts.
P.S. think twice before fitting a heavy duty clutch to your manual falcon!!!!!
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Slick, Quick and Fulliii SIK!!!
Proud TQE Operator
197.4hp at the wheels, 14.505@152.46km/h Tuning in progress... *CLICK TO SEE MY XR6*
I can get new Genuine Holden/Ford/Audi/Land Rover/Honda parts cheap, PM me!
Yep been there done that too.
Ford ended up bringing out a strengthening bracket because of this problem.
If you do a search on clutches im sure you'll find afew of us have had this problem
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FORD.... "POWER TO THE PEOPLE"...
This is becoming as notorious as XD door handles. As has been said before, a good quality HD clutch need not have a heavier pedal. Going to hydraulic will make no difference, you would still be exerting the same forces on the pedal and firewall. Remove the pedal box and brace it and the firewall, and fit a quality clutch kit.
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If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
To replace the clutch cable and pedal box you are up for at least $600, and thats if they are looking after you, I have heard people pay up to $900 for this job. The entire console has to be taken apart, even your stereo will need to come out.
I just had my clutch cable replaced and the firewall strengthened on both sides because of this problem. It cost about $130 for the clutch cable supplied and fitted and the firewall strengthening was about $90. The clutch is has a lighter and springier feel to it now because the cable is no longer cutting into the cable sleeve. And I can push the clutch in without the firewall coming with it.
If you need a new pedal box, it really isn't that hard to remove the console. All the wiring comes with it and just unplugs. gmanEA, those prices are $$$! I got my pedal box AND T5 fitted for $590. (Although I did loosen the entire console myself but left it installed). That was just normal price that anyone can get too.
I had the same problem....the clutch pedal bent itself off its mounting, had it taken out and reinfocred...cost $340 but i got ripped off....never goin to that mechanic again...my current mechanic said around $250 to do.
Stereo doesnt have to come out though...well mine didnt...the only thing that pied me off were the squeks and rattles that came form the dash after...it took a while for me to find them and silicon then, but its all good now.
clutch cable was $60 and PBR clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing) was $450 installed...all up (with the guy that ripped me off) it cost $850
well i did my pedal box yesterday, took me about 10 hours including fitting a brace to the clutch 'axle' replacing the cable and with a lot of interruptions (gf rang 3 times, mate rang twice, people came over, dad coming out offering 'suggestions')....
bugger me there is a lot of wiring under there, i have an aftermarket alarm and there is crap everywhere, i had to cut and re-solder a lot of alarm wires that went though and around the pedal box....and the stereo took a little extra time too.
i took heaps of photos but dad has the digital camera at the moment so i cant post them, i will when i can, to show the brace that i fitted- hopefully it will support the clutch and i wont have to do another box.
funny thing, the pedal box that i got out of the car was the second one the car has had, it was fitted in SA about 2 years after the car was built, it still had the freight tag stuck to it!
now, suprisingly, i have LESS (read: none) dash rattles than before, and the clutch feels great - im still going hydraulic though, they ARE lighter than cable, and more reliable.
it all worked great except last night on the way to my gfs at about 1200 i lost the instrument lights...dont know wtf happened there, they just went out and no fuses are blown....??????
P.S. (all genuine ford parts) cable was about $50, pedal box about $150, clip between cable and pedal $1, labour free cause i did it (yay. not.) and the experience? priceless...
also, to all those who choose to convert auto to manual of their own accord? YOU GUYS ARE BLOODY BRAVE!!!!!! especially if you are not mechanics and do it yourselves!!!!!
__________________
Slick, Quick and Fulliii SIK!!!
Proud TQE Operator
197.4hp at the wheels, 14.505@152.46km/h Tuning in progress... *CLICK TO SEE MY XR6*
I can get new Genuine Holden/Ford/Audi/Land Rover/Honda parts cheap, PM me!
The $600 is for clutch cable being replaced, as well as the pedal box. The pedal box is a fair bit of work, doing it all themselves they will charge at least $600.