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Fully manualised auto!

15K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  Perana XR8 
#1 ·
Hey, i was wondering how people actually go about fully manualising auto's. Like, what actually needs to be done to make it fully manual..is it just more gates or is there something else involved. I think that this is a good idea, i know it can be done on mechanical autos, but what about the BTR85LE autos?

Any info would be apprecieated :)
 
#3 ·
yeah there is a place in sydney that does them, for about 1500 they reprogram the chip and have electronic buttons for u to change gears when u like it doesnot even go back to 1st when u stop u have to press the button to start in first. like the formula ones are setup

thanks

yldsix
 
#6 ·
Low, its just basically that the trans stayes locked in whichever gear you have it selected on the "PRND321" scale, its similar to just using that normally, except it will not drop down gears, you have to make it drop down yourself.

Think of a manual without the clutch or H pattern
 
#10 ·
I dont think it would perform quite as good as a manual, for the reason that you would still loose power through the stall convertor, although the chages should in theory be just as good, if not faster.

anyone know if this kit can be ordered from interstate and sent down, then fitted here?
 
#12 ·
As far as I know, converting an auto to manual shifts only is as easy as installing a shift kit. I put the shift kit in my E4OD about a year and a half ago and I had the option of losing all automatic shifts but chose not to......I like not having to shift and mess with the clutch in traffic.

Installation just involves dropping the tranny pan and valve body and making the changes per the instructions in the kit.

Regarding losses through the tranny, a manual is more efficient than an automatic because it generates much less heat. All power losses through an automatic are lost to heat generated by friction in the TC, bands, and clutch packs.
 
#13 ·
Depending on what car you're gonna do try to do this to you might want to consider the operation of the lock-up converter if you want to retain use of it. It should engage at a cruise & under moderate load & disengage before a gear change. Normally that's all handled by the computer.

As for losses on an auto vs. a manual basis the most would come from the torque converter itself which is just a fluid coupling. But once the rev's hit the right speed the converter slip is minimal - maybe 2% - then you'd never know the difference in acceleration between man/auto. Only gear ratios come into play then which will be the domain of the manual with a choice of 5 closer ratios.

My Subaru Legacy (do you aussies call them libertys or is that the yanks?) auto 4WD came std with a "manual" button on the console behind the handbrake. When it's on - the trans holds the gear you select as long as you like - thats for 1, 2 & 3 . But in D it reverts to normal auto. I've been caught out a couple of times stopping at lights & trying to pull away again in 3rd hehehe.

It's excellent for overtaking - if you don't use manual the auto is quite stupid - stab your foot at 110kph in 4th & it kicks down almost to the redline in 2nd gear then changes up to 3rd within seconds - when 3rd was the best choice in the first place. Often you've missed the passing opportunity by the time all this has transpired (cos our major highways are the equivalent of goat tracks here in NZ.....too much money spend on bludgers and not enough on infrastructure...but DON'T GET ME STARTED ON THAT!!!) But pull it to 3rd with the manual switch on & it'll hold it no matter how hard you stomp your foot - it's good on gravel too - no kickdown to light the bags when you don' want to (which admittedly is rare anyway....)
 
#14 ·
younggun said:
I dont think it would perform quite as good as a manual, for the reason that you would still loose power through the stall convertor, although the chages should in theory be just as good, if not faster.

anyone know if this kit can be ordered from interstate and sent down, then fitted here?

I think you mean Torque Convertor but hey whos picking LOL. BTW your car is looking very very nice. Love it. What stereo are you running mate.
 
#15 ·
Brenx
Where did you get your transmission manualised? does this make your box stronger?
Are you using an aftermarket shifter as well? How is the manualised auto for daily driving?
Is it possible to manualise it but keep your normal D gear where it stays an automatic? Or does this defeat the purpose?

Thanks a lot
Dan
 
#17 · (Edited)
You would normally put in a B&M mega shifter (think thats it), you have to go up and down the gears, but it works like the new ones, you click it forward up it goes in gears, you click it back it goes down gears, you pick it up and drop it into neutral then push it to reverse or park, and pick it up and drop it to drive (from memory), 3 point turns become a major hassle. Full manual valve body means you choose the gear, so all auto funtcion is gone, you pull up in 3rd, you stay in 3rd, you have to drop it back to 1st to take off.

They are just brilliant without or without a full manual valve body though for drag racing, you click back in to 1st, hammer from the lights watch the tacho, then one little click forward you hit 2nd, then 3rd, then the 400m is up, had one installed in my brothers HQ statesman.

Dellboy999
 
#18 · (Edited)
DansEdgli said:
Brenx
Where did you get your transmission manualised? does this make your box stronger?
Are you using an aftermarket shifter as well? How is the manualised auto for daily driving?
Is it possible to manualise it but keep your normal D gear where it stays an automatic? Or does this defeat the purpose?

Thanks a lot
Dan
Bert Kewish auto transmissions in Dandenong (Amberly Ave). I haven't got the car registered or the engine going yet, so can't say. My guess pain in the arse with the B&M. I run a B&M megashifter. If you plan to go full manualised? I'd suggest sticking with the factory shifter (easier on your hands). As it hurts your hand changing gears all the time with the B&M.

It doesn't make the box stronger. To make it stronger you need:

a) more clutches (kevlar preferably) * 6 or as many as you can fit
b) Can't remember what it's called (servo) but you need a stronger spring to assist with holding gears.
c) solid band 3-4mm thick. Factory is 1-1.5mm max.

No, it's not possible to keep the normal "D" gear.

Shift kits just make the box last longer as it doesn't slip as much during gear changes.

I am running a 4500rpm histall now. Used to be 3500rpm. Car did used to be registered but I've put an aftermarket fuel system in and now can't get it past a roadworthy.

Brenden
 
#19 ·
Sweet, thanks for the info Brenx.
If i go full manual i might consider a shifter like the quicksilver where you dont need to pull another lever to get it into reverse, It just seems easier for daily driving. I think you just lift the handle to move it.

Thanks
Dan
 
#20 ·
I read on the net in the us that the A4ODE and 4r70W boxes have the manual shift button switch wires already there, you just have to identify them and connect a couple of switches and bingo Audi type pushbutton switches.

Just do a search for A4OD-E or 4R70W -which I believe are the same as the electronic boxes Ford Australia use.

I could be wrong though.
 
#23 ·
bsmyth said:
Ford Aus use the BTR-85LE/91LE/95LE Series of boxes

I know the AUS boxes are made here by BTR, but aren't they just the locally produced version of the AOD.

Again, I don't know, but it would seem rather senseless to re-invent the wheel so to speak.

If anyone knows for sure I would like to know, for a project later down the track
 
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