from what I know a good chain ( I prefer Ford Motorsport ones as my experience shows they tend to stretch less) will work just fine. The accuracy you may or may not gain from gear drive will be offset by the noise if nothing else. I have also heard they can make cams more likely to break because of harmonics but thats just anecdotal.. never seen it happen my self.
Originally posted by xa-coupe I have also heard they can make cams more likely to break because of harmonics but thats just anecdotal.. never seen it happen my self.
I can confirm this . I don't know about the harmonics , but coming home from the pub around 12 years ago , my solid cam ( Crow ) snapped in half at 7000rpm . The only redeemable features of my beloved cleveland were the intake manifold , carby , heads and sump .
Admittedly , this thing was revved to 7000 rpm for almost 3 years every day of its life . It ran a set of Pete Jackson straight cuts .
A good double row timing chain is just as good , and won't piss the neighbours off either.
Yer , I reckon you're right with the connection , BUT , we never knew what actually caused the cam to snap . The motor just stopped dead at high revs , It snapped valves ( due to cam , but not the cause ) smashed the oil pump , and bent 3 rods ( I sheared completely in half and went through the side of the bore wall . Funny thing is , the crank had a huge gouge on the counterbalance ( I think due to the floating oilpump ) .
My thoughts were the oil pump snapped and got caught , causing the thing to come to a grinding halt . Still don't know to this day .
What a bummer . $8000 down the drain
__________________ BA XR8 UTE, Blueprint , 330 Herrod kW's , and soon to be blown :fly:
dual idler gear drives are crap, but dont stretch or generally break. they do transfer harmonics from the crank, then double them for the cam, and cause top end flutters. a proper gear drive is a single idler, not a cheapo pete jackson! a single idler isolates the crank from the cam.we ran dual idlers on a 600hp alloy headed clevo, and they left light marks on the timing cover over a few years, but not enough to worry about, bigger problem is the water pump threads, which we drilled out, and welded nuts to.the gear drive and timing cover has been used in a lot of our engines, to no improvement, in the end we just use a rollmaster adjustable
__________________
ford 79 f150 4wd, lifted 6", 15 x 10 alloys,38.5 x 14.5 swampers, 400ci supercharged, c6, np205, 9" and dana 44, side pipes, big stereo, step side body
I can confirm this . I don't know about the harmonics , but coming home from the pub around 12 years ago , my solid cam ( Crow ) snapped in half at 7000rpm . The only redeemable features of my beloved cleveland were the intake manifold , carby , heads and sump .
Admittedly , this thing was revved to 7000 rpm for almost 3 years every day of its life . It ran a set of Pete Jackson straight cuts .
A good double row timing chain is just as good , and won't piss the neighbours off either.
running it to 7000 for so long, did u notice oil pressure go down? what bearing were u using in the block? i can see my clevo seeing 7000 in the future.
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