How do you tell if you have killed a clutch or pressure plate?
Hey all,
I did something silly yesterday (I think you can guess what it was!!), and now my clutch is slipping a little bit.
It was working like a charm the day before, so I am not entirely sure the clutch is dead, so i am thinkin it could it just be the pressure plate? (cos clutches take ages to die dont they?) Maybe I have just broken a spring in the pressure plate or sumpin when i dropped it.
Question is, is there anyway to find out if the pressure plate is buggered or the clutch is dead without taking the box out?
Either way, how much for an eb xr6 clutch/pressure plate fitted? I'd love to do it myself, but i just dont see how i could be able to get the box out and stuff, plus i'm not entirely sure i would know what i should be looking for to determine if its the clutch or pressure or both that are dead. Is it hard to change cluthc and pressure plate at home so to speak?
hrmm.. if it's slipping its most likely won out..glazed to oblivion or has oil on it ... none of the above are good news!
The box will need to come out for a new clutch one way or the other.. clutch is either the driven plate or the pressure plate..if one of them is buggered then when you take the pressure plate off the driven plate will fall out..
It's not hard to change the clutch at home but from memory you have to take the bellhousing off the box to get it out (it was a while ago so I could be wrong) and while you are at it look at the flywheel to see if it needs a machine coz there is no time like the present. If you are given to driving hard then fix eveything while you can!
I know I didnt answer all your questions but hope its of some help !
What XA Coupe was basically saying is that there is no way of checking to see if its the clutch plate or the pressure plate without removing the gearbox and bellhousing. Before you do that though check and see that you have some freeplay (about 1/16") between the rod that comes out of the slave cylinder and the yoke that goes into the bellhousing which actuates the pressure plate. Of course this only applies if your clutch is hyraulic and I don,t know if EB's are hydaulic or cable
It's a pretty big job and hard (but not impossible) to do on your own at home. If you haven't seen it done before or helped someone else do it or have a qualified mechanic around to ask for advice you should get a quote from a workshop.
Good luck!
And don't keep driving it or you could be doing damage to parts like the flywheel that you might otherwise not have to replace
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The cop said "Do you know why I pulled you over". I said " Well, that all depends on how long you have been following me!"
You seem to have a little doubt on how you remove the gearbox and bell housing. If you have any doubt at all, don't try to do this at home, There can be nothing worse than lying on your back, working out what's what and once it's all back together you kill that clutch because you never aligned it all up properly. Sometimes it's easier to drive it to a clutch shop and get them to do it.
Shaynet
Last Falcon V8 manual with a hydraulic clutch was the XE. Since EB they've all been cables.
Cheers Guys
Paul B
XR6WGN
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476 EF XR6 Wagons - 198 were Manual
Member Tickford / FPV Club - SA
Yes check the cable on the firewall that it has PLENTY free play,turn it anticlock a couple of turns, then try it..
Iff it's stuffed ring around some places specialise in this,others can charge heaps..
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Tuned & maintained by "Peppertree Perfmormance". Dart block, Scat 4340 steel crank, Custom C.P pistons.Oliver rods.. Mal Wood twin plate clutch.. Twin SC61/2's,482 rwkw/ 645 rwhp..
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thanks for the help, I'm gonna take it to my mechanic today to get a quote. I think i would just stuff it up more if i tried to do since i have never taken one apart before.
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