how much work to change XF T-bar auto to manual? - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-13-02, 11:49 PM
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how much work to change XF T-bar auto to manual?

hey, can anyone tell me how much work is involved in changing my XF-S 3 speed T-ar auto to a 4 or 5 speed floor mounted manual transmission.

My car has only done 130 000 kms and the auto needs a service soon (starting to hunt around for gears, even changing from 3rd to 2nd at 90-100k/h) so now seems as good a time as any to rip it out.

I'm also sick of the sluggish, thirsty 3 speed. Hell, my mates stock standard (except for extractors) XF carby with 4 on the floor ute is quicker than my XF-S EFI 3 speed T-bar sedan. (also stock standard) and the EFI engine has about 10 more kilowatts than the carby.

also could you give me approx. $$$ cost? thanks a heap.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 02:16 AM
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Heres a shopping list for you:

4 or 5 speed gearbox (borg warner most likely)
clutch (pressure plate, friction plate etc.
flywheel (dont forget the little bearing that sits in the middle!)
Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder
clutch pedal
shifter (you will need to check your tranny hump to see if it fits)
and you should prolly change your diff. auto is 2.75, manual is 3.00)

Take the list to a wrecker for a price. Id guess you could pick it all up for less than $1000.

reckon on about a days work if you work like a madman.
I drove an XF 250 ci EFI 5 speed once. it was still pretty sluggish - the problem is they dont rev very hard.

if you just wanna beat your mate:
change your diff gears to 3.25's. Then grab yourself a cam to make the 250 rev a bit more.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 02:34 AM
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even so, after driving my mates ute for a day, i relise how much fun they are to drive compared to an auto and i change gears manually in my auto anyway, but there is only so much you can do with left foot braking. Also, the auto wont hold a gear, and it wont change up if it doesnt think its time.

Sounds like a lot of work though, i forgot about having to put in the clutch pedal and everything too. arrrgh, what to do what to do? with that 1000 bucks i could lower my car and add some decent alloys (as opposed to the chrome steel mags i have now) but driving a manual is so much fun.

Can you explain to me some more about changing the auto diff gears? (sorry i am not very mechanically minded. but i like to learn)

as for the sluggish factor, according to wheels, the XF-S with EFI and 5 speed can pull 0-100 in a bit over 9 seconds. Compare that to the auto time of about 11 to 12. (thats with left foot braking to 2000rpm)

i spose i should consult my friendly gregories manual.

anyway, please provide me with as much info as possible (and anyone else who wants to contribute it would be muchly appreciated)

thanks again.
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 05:41 AM
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I think utes had a 3.23 centre??, as opposed to your 2.77. And the ute would also be a bit lighter, so its not really any surprise that it beats your car...

EL driver...
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 04:13 PM
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Get a complete diff from a wrecker. Make sure it has a lower final drive[higher numericaly] usually from a ute, but one from a 3.3 will be lower geared too and won't be worked too hard.Get all the hangers,shocks etc and work out what parts are better..Lower final drives and auto make for quick throttle response..Cheaper than manual conversion too..

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic!
Tuned & maintained by "Peppertree Perfmormance". Dart block, Scat 4340 steel crank, Custom C.P pistons.Oliver rods.. Mal Wood twin plate clutch.. Twin SC61/2's,482 rwkw/ 645 rwhp..
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 09:57 PM
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is anyone listening here (except 73gscoupe)??? I am not just after better performance but also all the other stuff that comes with a manual: lower fuel usage, cheaper gearbox maintenance, more fun whilst driving. Thanks a heap for all your ideas but i would much more appreciate help with an auto to manual conversion. Plese, keep the advice coming.
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 10:07 PM
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Get yourself a wrecked manual XF and a haynes manual.
Read up on how to remove an auto box and tailshaft etc and also how to install a manual gearbox make sure you know what goes where and the encounters you will face and take your time, get someone to help ( not someone that will piss you off eg my parents who i ask to hold something and nag me saying im not doing it right, should that be there, disconnect the battery, turn the key off. Its just farken frustrating)
Use the haynes manual to inspect the parts to see if they work properly renew the clutch. And hopefully it wount be too hard.

Remember if you get a 5 speed it wil have to be out of a late model EFI XF as the other 5 speeds(XE's early XF's) wont hold up behind the 4.1. They are meant for 3.3l engines.
Make sure you have all the necessary tools before you start. The haynes will list them all.

Buying a wrecked or cheap XF will be the best way to ensure you have all the parts and you can always flog the car off later and get your money back.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 10:37 PM
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thanks for the fantastic and to-the-point help and ideas there Dan, much appreciated. In your opinion how much am i looking at for a wrecked EFI XF and how long do you think it would take if i had the help of an amateur (but knowlegeble) mechanic?
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-02, 11:24 PM
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I did mine myself in a day. You should be able to buy a whole wreck for about $300. Then when you have finished sell the parts you don't need.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-02, 01:44 AM
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Wrecking an XF efi is not a bad idea if you have the space, time and means of disposing of the shell. I wrecked a 351 ZH once, it took me a week to remove everything, and cost me $50 to hire a trailer to get it to a wrecker. So i ended up getting a 351, C10, 9inch LSD, & a/c , PS for about $1000 and a weeks work. With someone who knows what their doing figure on a weekend for your manual conversion. I find these things are best started on friday night, gives you plenty of time. The beauty of wrecking a whole car is that it ensures that you have all the bits you need, and you can see how it all goes together.

You are right about the auto vs manual. Ive changed 3 BW autos in 5 years, but thats probably my driving style. Manual is much more hassle free.

Ohh, i forgot the speedo cable. you will probably need to change the speedo driven gear, Im not sure if the bw auto one will mesh with the manual boxes gear. And you will definately have to change it if you change the diff.

with diff gears, higher ratio means you take off faster, but the compromise is your motor revs harder. gears typically range from 2.75 (low acceleration, typical auto gears) to 3.5 (found in falcon utes and panelvans with the 200 ci motor and manual) and can go up to 4.11.
I currently run 2.75s behind my toploader (wide ratio) and its pretty sluggish off the line. the difference between 2.75 and 3.00 gears is quite noticeable. If you wreck a XF. swap the diff too.
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