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Old 06-08-2004, 21:46   #1 (permalink)
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installing gear drive

I know a lot off u don't like them but i've got to do it anyway. My timing chain has stretched and am replacing it with a jp gear drive. Can i just alighn the timing marks on the old sprockets and remove them and replace it with the gear drive or do i have to get a degree wheel and start from scratch.
Thanks for ur time and brain power
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Old 06-08-2004, 22:53   #2 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

Scratch, you don't want to stuff up your cam timing for an hours work max??
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Old 06-08-2004, 23:06   #3 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

Have a look at this thread :
351C Gear Drive and more...
if you need any more info, im sure Davis can help.
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Old 06-09-2004, 04:40   #4 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

I've got a JP Gear Drive. Just incase you were hoping for a big ass blower whine, sorry, they are a "quiet" gear drive :( They give a very mild "whirr". I didn't realise when I bought mine - I thought they were all noisy.

I read between your lines "i've got to do it" and assume it is the noise you are after?
I personally think they are great!! I have a "noisy" Pete Jackson sitting in the shed which will go in on my next cam change.

I just realised I've said all this mumbo jumbo on the link that falcon coupe listed!
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Old 06-09-2004, 05:39   #5 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

thanks guys. Yes it is the noise im after if it turns out to be quiet i will put a different one (fixed idler) in when i do my rebuild in about 6 mths.
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Old 06-09-2004, 07:53   #6 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by xf351clev
I know a lot off u don't like them but i've got to do it anyway. My timing chain has stretched and am replacing it with a jp gear drive. Can i just alighn the timing marks on the old sprockets and remove them and replace it with the gear drive or do i have to get a degree wheel and start from scratch.
Thanks for ur time and brain power
guys

A degree wheel won't help much without a piston stop. Someone makes them in the form that screw into a sparkplug hole, but I've never used one. Rather, I made one of that type by putting a 1/4" x 20 x 3" long bolt through a compression tester fitting and fitting a couple of nuts tightly to it.

You need a positive stop so that you can turn the engine in one direction and then around the other direction so that you'll know where the "middle point" is when calculating where TDC actually is for your engine.

I wouldn't recommend advancing/retarding your camshaft without rechecking your P/V clearances, which is a bit difficult with the heads on.

Timing chains stretch 2-3 degrees after first run in.

If you have a small plastic (half round) protractor, you can do it without buying a degree wheel. Go to a photocopier and make two readable copies of it. Cut out the pieces so that they line up properly and tape them to a thick paper plate. You now have a poor man's degree wheel. Mark one side of the protractor copy A and the other B so that you'll easily be able to tell which is which once you're turning the engine and/or have looked away.

Make a "timing pointer" out of a piece of wire that isn't going to change under its own weight. An old wire coat hanger works well. I use a pair of side cutters to make a nice point, then bolt it anywhere that is out of the way and that will stay put. Use the rest of the wire to shape it to where the pointer points at a fixed place on the degree wheel and, with your piston stop in place, you're ready to find TDC on number 1. Besure that you've already spun it 'round to the compression stroke before putting your piston stop in! Turn one direction, note the indication on the degree wheel, turn the other direction, note the indication on the degree wheel and half way between the two points (in degrees difference) is TDC. Pull your piston stop out, rotate the engine to the first degree mark plus half the difference between the two points and you're at TDC.

As a note, you probably won't need "two sides" of the protractor to make something that will get you fixed up. However, with two sides, you can easily use it to mark your dampener at 90* intervals from where it is installed to known good TDC. Be sure to remark at least the "0" (if it isn't the same place as shown on the dampener) with TDC so that you can use it for accurate ignition timing.

Of course, you could just buy a degree wheel...once you have one, you've always got one :)

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Old 06-10-2004, 07:31   #7 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

The fixed idler gear drive will drain your back pocket! The Milodon one posted in the other thread is about US$325.........they go for about $600 here in Aust! Could think of other things to spend that on. The DUAL idler ones do come in NOISY versions. Some companies just machine the square cut gears differently to minimise the noise, and hence a "quiet" one. Enquire before you buy.

http://www.vpw.com.au/ieframeset.html

Kaa'ching bling bling!

Look at US ebay motors for a good deal. This one from Mad Dog racing is a quiet one, but call/email them and they'll hook you up a noisy one - cheap too! They have everything.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/351c-g...tegorymapZ6000

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Old 06-10-2004, 07:33   #8 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

Those dodgy VPW links don't work.

Look under "categories - engine - milodon gear drives".
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:37   #9 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

Here you go - probably cost you about $170 including shipping!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WD1V
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Old 06-10-2004, 20:51   #10 (permalink)
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Re: installing gear drive

I'd suggest you degree the cam in while everything is off.

Why not?
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