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Jase ELXR8 & Aussie Pete - T5 grating on reverse

3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  XR_Strider_GuY 
#1 ·
We were all correct.

Rubber had pulled out of metal tube but was held by base pin. Don't know if this is normal in service.

Putting in other gear first cures one form of grating.

Alas, the real problem was discovered when, shortly after replacing rubber doover on clutch lever, a new problem arose with clutch pedal / pedal box, but I pressed on until the pedal fell off 20k later. Pedal box had broken where shaft is welded on and was flexing away, which is same effect as when firewall went on XF as each adjustment just increases the problem. Final straw was probably putting the new rubber doover on and getting rid of a bit of play in the old one.

So now I've got the dash out, which wouldn't be necessary if the three top bolts on bulkhead weren't covered by rigid air tube (like some other things in life, an extra inch could make all the difference), but it wasn't that bad a job. The worst part is those bloody electrical connectors that all have different ways of being released and involve unnessary frigging about to release. Remains to be seen how getting it back in goes.

Interesting that the firewall had gone and been repaired before I got it. Maybe has heavy duty clutch fitted, which is what I reckon did the XF firewall in, and maybe just poor engineering as well.
 
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#2 ·
I am a big fan of hydraulic clutch actuation - cables are just so much pain.....
 
#4 ·
EA S said:
We were all correct.

Alas, the real problem was discovered when, shortly after replacing rubber doover on clutch lever, a new problem arose with clutch pedal / pedal box, but I pressed on until the pedal fell off 20k later. Pedal box had broken where shaft is welded on and was flexing away, which is same effect as when firewall went on XF as each adjustment just increases the problem. Final straw was probably putting the new rubber doover on and getting rid of a bit of play in the old one.

So now I've got the dash out, which wouldn't be necessary if the three top bolts on bulkhead weren't covered by rigid air tube (like some other things in life, an extra inch could make all the difference), but it wasn't that bad a job. The worst part is those bloody electrical connectors that all have different ways of being released and involve unnessary frigging about to release. Remains to be seen how getting it back in goes.
Had the same situation in my EB, the Clutch pedal pivot pulled away from the pedal box. Actually it looks a veryu weak design, provision for clutch ped much like an after thought.

had to go through the same process of pulling dash forward etc - so I feel your pain !. A lot a time in disasembly/reassembly for a quick weld job. I also had the heavy duty clutch in it.

Also had the rubber actuator thingy on the cltch release lever break. The actual clasp broke leaving me with no clutch. Had to replace this in the shopping centre car park.

I certinly agree with your sentiments re hydralic clutch AussiePete.
 
#5 ·
Cable setup is alot cheaper, but more of a pain.
The rubber pulling out of the bush on the fork is pretty common on six cylinders, there's no bush on the V8's.
Putting in another gear before reverse works coz you're using a synchro to select a gear to stop the gears moving.
 
#6 ·
Re: Re: Jase ELXR8 & Aussie Pete - T5 grating on reverse

XR8220 said:


Actually it looks a veryu weak design, provision for clutch ped much like an after thought.

The problem appears to be that the shaft is supported on one side only, so each clutch pedal application effectively applies a sort of lateral force to the base and this increases as the base deflects and flexes over time. Would have been a lot stronger if they'd projected brake shaft, but maybe there's safety reason why brake is on it's own shaft (Wouldn't have liked it if brake pedal fell off with clutch.) Or pedal box could easily have another part on it to support clutch shaft on both sides.
 
#7 ·
Another reason to have hydraulic over cable is over time the cable setup binds and makes clutch actuation harder and more dodgy.

My AU2 with only 4000km has a binding pedal already. Needs a lube job or something.

In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
 
#8 ·
Aussie Pete said:
In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
Interesting point. Manuals are becoming dinosaurs, so why bother putting development money into a small and decreasing market?
 
#9 ·
Aussie Pete said:
Another reason to have hydraulic over cable is over time the cable setup binds and makes clutch actuation harder and more dodgy.

My AU2 with only 4000km has a binding pedal already. Needs a lube job or something.

In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
Pete,

The cables bend where they go through the bellhousing, actually just before it goes through. It's the way the cable is run and the heat gradually makes it move.
 
#10 ·
Jase_ELXR8 said:
Pete,

The cables bend where they go through the bellhousing, actually just before it goes through. It's the way the cable is run and the heat gradually makes it move.
The VN to VT Commos with cable clutch had all the same problems. I replaced the cable on my VP HSV twice in 3 months because the heat from the headers kills them in no time.

The 215i (Holden 5.7) equipped cars had hydraulic AND clutch actuation in the one unit. Hydraulic from the pedal to a cable box, then cable into the bellhousing. Weird!
 
#11 ·
Aussie Pete said:

The VN to VT Commos with cable clutch had all the same problems. I replaced the cable on my VP HSV twice in 3 months because the heat from the headers kills them in no time.

The 215i (Holden 5.7) equipped cars had hydraulic AND clutch actuation in the one unit. Hydraulic from the pedal to a cable box, then cable into the bellhousing. Weird!
They probably did that to get a lighter pedal as hydralic take alot less effort.
 
#12 ·
Once upon a time all fords had juice clutches.. But along came the crossflows, they went to cable clutches, while the bent 8s kept the juice clutches.. then the V8s went into hibernation, only to come back with cables.. Is there no Justice?


I think a good solution is to get a clutch kit for an XB Falcon - word on the street is its an easy job to do..
 
#13 ·
Jase_ELXR8 said:

They probably did that to get a lighter pedal as hydralic take alot less effort.
Bzzzztttt!
I think it was because the clutch on the strokers operated in the opposite direction. Plus with this setup the pedal height was always the same and cruise control could be fitted!
 
#14 ·
Pedal box and dash back in and all is well. Took about 8 hours all up, but as usual now that I know how to do it it'd be about half that if I had to do now. Time consuming, but a pretty straightforward job. Now I've got to strengthen the firewall as that'll probably go again if I don't.

Q: What sort of f**kwit designs a manual car that has a clutch pedal shaft as an afterthought and pulls out the pedal box and firewall in 120,000k?

A: One that designs a car for automatics only, just like the XF. Ford engineering sucks.
 
#15 ·
EA S said:
Q: What sort of f**kwit designs a manual car that has a clutch pedal shaft as an afterthought and pulls out the pedal box and firewall in 120,000k?

A: One that designs a car for automatics only, just like the XF. Ford engineering sucks.
Yeah - I think I said that before - the manual cars are not designed to the same standards as the autos. Having said that, I can't prove it - the product just seems to indicate that this is true.
 
#16 ·
Aussie Pete said:

Yeah - I think I said that before - the manual cars are not designed to the same standards as the autos. Having said that, I can't prove it - the product just seems to indicate that this is true.
The proof is in the product, all you have to do is look at the way the manuals are setup and all the problems they have. Firewall breaking, clutch pedal pivot, poor pedal feel (cable), rattling release forks, binding release bearings...etc...

Pete, are you still running the T5 with your stroker??? If yes how does it handle it so far???
 
#17 ·
Aussie Pete said:
Another reason to have hydraulic over cable is over time the cable setup binds and makes clutch actuation harder and more dodgy.

My AU2 with only 4000km has a binding pedal already. Needs a lube job or something.

In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
Pete

This goes along what I said a while back, after Ash at herrods regrease and my clutch to the 100th degree it stopped all noise and grabbing, something that needs to be performed at Ford in a bit more detail!

You will also find the clutch dust will also be a big killer if you tend to smoke em as I do!
 
#18 ·
laminge said:


Pete

This goes along what I said a while back, after Ash at herrods regrease and my clutch to the 100th degree it stopped all noise and grabbing, something that needs to be performed at Ford in a bit more detail!

You will also find the clutch dust will also be a big killer if you tend to smoke em as I do!
Laminge,

I had heaps of trouble with my release bearing after i changed the clutch. It had me and the guys at work stumped as to why... In the end we nutted it down to the type of grease and the type of release bearing (there's a few different types and the ford one is junk)
 
#19 ·
Jase_ELXR8 said:
Pete, are you still running the T5 with your stroker??? If yes how does it handle it so far???
Yes.
OK - but it's not like I've done many kms in it so far. The ones I have done have been mostly gentle. I see no probs with gearboxes.
 
#21 ·
Aussie Pete said:

Yeah - I think I said that before - the manual cars are not designed to the same standards as the autos. Having said that, I can't prove it - the product just seems to indicate that this is true.
So far i've been bloody fortunate "touch's wood" that my pedal box hasn't effed it's self yet. The clutch anchor bolt has though, cause me to be stranded on the side of the road until my baby can be towed.

Yeah i reckon the should put more into R&D for the manuals. So far i have no complaints about the actual gearbox though.
 
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