Rubber had pulled out of metal tube but was held by base pin. Don't know if this is normal in service.
Putting in other gear first cures one form of grating.
Alas, the real problem was discovered when, shortly after replacing rubber doover on clutch lever, a new problem arose with clutch pedal / pedal box, but I pressed on until the pedal fell off 20k later. Pedal box had broken where shaft is welded on and was flexing away, which is same effect as when firewall went on XF as each adjustment just increases the problem. Final straw was probably putting the new rubber doover on and getting rid of a bit of play in the old one.
So now I've got the dash out, which wouldn't be necessary if the three top bolts on bulkhead weren't covered by rigid air tube (like some other things in life, an extra inch could make all the difference), but it wasn't that bad a job. The worst part is those bloody electrical connectors that all have different ways of being released and involve unnessary frigging about to release. Remains to be seen how getting it back in goes.
Interesting that the firewall had gone and been repaired before I got it. Maybe has heavy duty clutch fitted, which is what I reckon did the XF firewall in, and maybe just poor engineering as well.
I am a big fan of hydraulic clutch actuation - cables are just so much pain.....
__________________
BA'1.5' Pursuit 290
Lightning Strike / Reflective Orange Stripes 'General' Dog - AP's German Shepherd and Best Mate - 02Dec1998-15Dec2003.
'Pepper' Dog - General's and My Little German Shepherd Sweetie - 1996?-02Apr2006. 'Sako' Dog - My Beautiful and Pretty German Shepherd - 2001?-23Aug2006.
Re: Jase ELXR8 & Aussie Pete - T5 grating on reverse
Quote:
Originally posted by EA S We were all correct.
Alas, the real problem was discovered when, shortly after replacing rubber doover on clutch lever, a new problem arose with clutch pedal / pedal box, but I pressed on until the pedal fell off 20k later. Pedal box had broken where shaft is welded on and was flexing away, which is same effect as when firewall went on XF as each adjustment just increases the problem. Final straw was probably putting the new rubber doover on and getting rid of a bit of play in the old one.
So now I've got the dash out, which wouldn't be necessary if the three top bolts on bulkhead weren't covered by rigid air tube (like some other things in life, an extra inch could make all the difference), but it wasn't that bad a job. The worst part is those bloody electrical connectors that all have different ways of being released and involve unnessary frigging about to release. Remains to be seen how getting it back in goes.
Had the same situation in my EB, the Clutch pedal pivot pulled away from the pedal box. Actually it looks a veryu weak design, provision for clutch ped much like an after thought.
had to go through the same process of pulling dash forward etc - so I feel your pain !. A lot a time in disasembly/reassembly for a quick weld job. I also had the heavy duty clutch in it.
Also had the rubber actuator thingy on the cltch release lever break. The actual clasp broke leaving me with no clutch. Had to replace this in the shopping centre car park.
I certinly agree with your sentiments re hydralic clutch AussiePete.
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Victorian Flagmarshalling Team (F4)
http://www.vicflag.org.au
AU II XR8 220 Narooma Blue
5sp Manual, Body Kit, Momo wheel/knob, Premium Sound
Cable setup is alot cheaper, but more of a pain.
The rubber pulling out of the bush on the fork is pretty common on six cylinders, there's no bush on the V8's.
Putting in another gear before reverse works coz you're using a synchro to select a gear to stop the gears moving.
Re: Re: Jase ELXR8 & Aussie Pete - T5 grating on reverse
Quote:
Originally posted by XR8220
Actually it looks a veryu weak design, provision for clutch ped much like an after thought.
The problem appears to be that the shaft is supported on one side only, so each clutch pedal application effectively applies a sort of lateral force to the base and this increases as the base deflects and flexes over time. Would have been a lot stronger if they'd projected brake shaft, but maybe there's safety reason why brake is on it's own shaft (Wouldn't have liked it if brake pedal fell off with clutch.) Or pedal box could easily have another part on it to support clutch shaft on both sides.
Another reason to have hydraulic over cable is over time the cable setup binds and makes clutch actuation harder and more dodgy.
My AU2 with only 4000km has a binding pedal already. Needs a lube job or something.
In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
__________________
BA'1.5' Pursuit 290
Lightning Strike / Reflective Orange Stripes 'General' Dog - AP's German Shepherd and Best Mate - 02Dec1998-15Dec2003.
'Pepper' Dog - General's and My Little German Shepherd Sweetie - 1996?-02Apr2006. 'Sako' Dog - My Beautiful and Pretty German Shepherd - 2001?-23Aug2006.
Originally posted by Aussie Pete In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
Interesting point. Manuals are becoming dinosaurs, so why bother putting development money into a small and decreasing market?
Originally posted by Aussie Pete Another reason to have hydraulic over cable is over time the cable setup binds and makes clutch actuation harder and more dodgy.
My AU2 with only 4000km has a binding pedal already. Needs a lube job or something.
In fact, now I think of it, one of the worst things about these Fords seems to be the lack of development on manual cars. If the autos had some of the noises, vibrations, and harshness of the manuals it would get fixed pronto.
Pete,
The cables bend where they go through the bellhousing, actually just before it goes through. It's the way the cable is run and the heat gradually makes it move.
The cables bend where they go through the bellhousing, actually just before it goes through. It's the way the cable is run and the heat gradually makes it move.
The VN to VT Commos with cable clutch had all the same problems. I replaced the cable on my VP HSV twice in 3 months because the heat from the headers kills them in no time.
The 215i (Holden 5.7) equipped cars had hydraulic AND clutch actuation in the one unit. Hydraulic from the pedal to a cable box, then cable into the bellhousing. Weird!
__________________
BA'1.5' Pursuit 290
Lightning Strike / Reflective Orange Stripes 'General' Dog - AP's German Shepherd and Best Mate - 02Dec1998-15Dec2003.
'Pepper' Dog - General's and My Little German Shepherd Sweetie - 1996?-02Apr2006. 'Sako' Dog - My Beautiful and Pretty German Shepherd - 2001?-23Aug2006.
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