I had a new clutch installed on my EBII 5sp S pack. Do I need to run it in as it feels like it is hurting doing changes anything over about 3100rpm.
Also I am now noticing a small clunk in the rear of the car when changing gears (accell) unless i really lightly let the clutch out and also when starting in 1st. When cold the gearbox doesnt easily go into second but is usually fine after warming up.
Does it sound like the diff / uni joints are taking slack on gear changes?
Also is the 2nd gear problem one that is generally fixed by a g/box service or am I probably looking at a recon?
Usually when a new clutch is installed it takes a while to bed in.
Changes will seem a little jerky ( not harsh or anything ) as the clutch has more bite.
Once it has settled in a little it is a good idea to go get it re-adjusted.
As for the shift problems when cold....it usually means the syncro rings are on their way out ( recondition ) however sometimes you can use thinner Automatic fluid and it helps it but will not cure the problem.
If you feel the clutch is acting abnormally then I suggest you take it back to where it was done and get the mechanic to drive it. He wont think your a dickhead for coming back...and it wont cost you anything for him to test drive it.
Let us know how it goes
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Ok thanks for the info. The clutch is nice and smooth driving normally so I'd say its just the fact its new and needs to "bed in" before i drive hard with it. I have to replace the timer cover gasket and valve stem seals so I'll be getting the head done + cam and extractors in one go so i want to get the rest of the car in good nick first.
A heavy duty clutch is always good, as it is more durable. However it tends to make the car a little harder to drive as the clutch is a lot more 'bitey' (for want of a better word).
It also makes the clutch pedal heavier to press (unless you have a hydraulic clutch of course!!)
I guess you have to weigh up the pros and cons of having a clutch that lasts longer and having a car that's a little more difficult to drive (especially in peak hour).
Mine has a heavy duty clutch and peak hour sux, but at all other times I love it.
Hope this has helped a little..
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It may look good and it may be good, but it's rubbish!
But H/D clutch on a E-Series Falcon can cause an excess amount of stress on the firewall where the cable goes through, and on the actual clutch pedal itself....
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1993 EBII Fairmont (Now wrecking, PM if you want any parts)
1988 Nissan R31 Skyline
Originally posted by RedED A heavy duty clutch is always good, as it is more durable. However it tends to make the car a little harder to drive as the clutch is a lot more 'bitey' (for want of a better word).
It also makes the clutch pedal heavier to press (unless you have a hydraulic clutch of course!!)
I guess you have to weigh up the pros and cons of having a clutch that lasts longer and having a car that's a little more difficult to drive
This is absolutely not the case. A properly built HD clutch will contain an organic plate so driveability will be no different. A HD pressure plate can be built so it has more clamp force but not a markedly heavier release weight, therefore causing no adverse affect on firewall or pedal effort. A hydraulic clutch will NOT be any easier than a cable clutch.
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If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
Ah But A hydraulic clutch can be changed to make it easier by playing with the master cylinders.
And while you are correct in saying that the release weight isn't nessasarly effected the fact is that as clutches get more bitey they do get more difficult to drive.
The best thing to do is get the next step up from standard when ever getting things that wear (brake pads, clutch, rotors, tyres)
That way you normally get a good improvement without harming the pocket to much or drivablity.
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Originally posted by carazy Ah But A hydraulic clutch can be changed to make it easier by playing with the master cylinders.
And while you are correct in saying that the release weight isn't nessasarly effected the fact is that as clutches get more bitey they do get more difficult to drive.
You can't make a clutch easier by changing master cylinder. If you go to a larger bore cylinder you get lighter pedal effort(overall) but generate too much slave travel (more swept volume), therefore lowering required pedal travel to actuate clutch, generating a net effort variation of zero. There is no magic - no change in work required without an external power source.
You will note I said ORGANIC plate, clutches don't get more bitey untill you go to dual friction, cerametallic or brass linings.
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If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
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