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Rebuilding a T5 Manual

7K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  snotty 
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#1 ·
Has anyone ever rebuilt a 5 speed manual here(EA one mainly), and if so how hard was it and how long did it take. Also where can you get good quality rebuild kits for them?

Cheers
 
#3 ·
yeah I would like to know too......except mines an EF.....

Dave...
 
#4 ·
try and get a book an rebuilding gearboxes, preferably one on borg warner transmissions or if possible, one on just t5's.

if you are good with the tools, u shouldnt have any troubles. u might need some specialist eqipment.
 
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#5 ·
I've got 2 books covering reconditioning the T5 Manual, both a Haynes and Gregories manual with full decriptions on how to do it. But I need to know just how difficult it actually is to do as I don't want to pull it half apart only to find it's near impossible to get apart of put back together properly.

Oh yeah, and I still need some idea's on where to get a rebuild kit for it. Would Ford Service centers have anything like that?

Cheers
 
#6 ·
Bursons should carry a rebuild kit

I was going to rebuild a 4spd single rail i have but the kit was ~$280 which included synchro's, bearings and gaskets. I needed a gear or 2 aswell and they were outrageously priced so I didnt do it.
 
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#7 ·
Yeah I went into Repco today and got a price on a rebuild kit for the T5 manual for the EA Falcon... $615!!! F%ck me dead! And he only added $20 on the cost price as well I think!

He was on the phone at the time, so I couldn't get him to tell me what was in the kit. I'm guessing all new syncro's, bearings, gaskets and everything else exluding gears?

How much are these gearboxes brand new?
 
#8 ·
donuts2003 said:
Yeah I went into Repco today and got a price on a rebuild kit for the T5 manual for the EA Falcon... $615!!! F%ck me dead! And he only added $20 on the cost price as well I think!

He was lying about the $20 above his cost.
My price on a T5 rebuild kit for an XF, which I think is the same as an EA is just under $250, If you need 1 ,let me know and I'll work out a price for you.
 
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#9 ·
He was lying about the $20 above his cost.
My price on a T5 rebuild kit for an XF, which I think is the same as an EA is just under $250, If you need 1 ,let me know and I'll work out a price for you.
No he wasn't... I saw him mark the price up on the computer.

Maybe the repco rebuild kit comes with a lot more parts.
 
#10 ·
I work for Repco, if he was going to sell it for $20 above cost, he will be severly reamed by the Manager, the Regional manager and probably the Zone manager.
from a cost of $595 to a sale of $620 is only a 4.5% markup, and I can assure you that no self preserving Repco employee will let it go for 4.5% Gross Profit.
 
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#11 ·
Pfft... Been to repco here lots of times, and they always make up the price when your there(they never give the same price twice) I can usually score discounts on the first price they give me by asking for a discount.

Maybe your managers are stingey down there :nerner:
 
#12 ·
donuts2003 said:
Pfft... Been to repco here lots of times, and they always make up the price when your there(they never give the same price twice) I can usually score discounts on the first price they give me by asking for a discount.

Maybe your managers are stingey down there :nerner:
They may never give the same price twice, but I can promise you that they are maintaining their profit margin, All Repco employees can override the price that the computer tells you, sometimes I go right down to the bare minimum, other times, depending on your attitude, I may give a marginal discount or tell you that it's the lowest I can go.
All I was trying to do was save YOU some money, and help out a fellow Ford driver in the process, but if you are quite happy paying
$620 for the rebuild kit, go right ahead....
Its no skin off my nose.
What Repco are we talking about?
:insane:
 
G
#13 ·
hey donuts
i rebuilt 2 t5's last year, for my ED and lil bro's EB, depends on why your rebuilding yours, the ED had **** awful backlash during gear changes on hill climbs, so it was just a matter of reshiming the in put/out put shaft, and replacing all tapper roller bearings...." are you aware it's not reconmended to reset preloads on already warn taper rollers"....and the EB was a full rebuild, syn's.bearings,"d"tents,seals, rear out put bush ect....
what is the reason your rebuilding yours?
 
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#15 ·
on the "ED" bearings, you can pick up form, places like SKF, MOTION INDUSTRIES ect, for around $15.00 each, the only one i had to go through ford for was the tiny taper roller bearing on the end of the input, where it resses in to the out put shaft, but from memory, it was only a dramer too get that one after market, becuase the ford part number didn't hav a after market match?...but on your modle, it most likely dosn't hav a tapper roller there any way, i think yours will have just a niddle roller there, if it's a t5 out of a EA....for the rest of the rebuild, on the EB, i bought the syncros through ford, mainly becuase i needed them as quick as i could get em and they had a set on the shelf, but i'm sure you can do a deal through, a local mob, and get them at a resonable price if you don't mind waiting......the rear bush, just took it to a auto trannie place near home, they pulled the old bush and fitted the new bush and a rear main seal for $20....that bush is the same as the one used in the auto's if you needed to know....as for gaskets, im not sure what the other chappy was talking about there, both of mine were metal on metal faces, useing "omnifit" as sealer{ and no leaks }, also, had sucsess using "omnifit" on the diff hat as well...good shit ay.....

Can i ask what the reson behind you wanting too rebuild your t5 is????whats it doing, not doing

if i do one again, i will pull it down and suss out all i need and then just chase up the best prices i can get ay, also, its not somthing you want to be in a rush too do, when i'm trying too work out where the back lash is or where the noise is coming from...the best way i've found is to split the box, remove the lid and then bolt the box back up leaving the lid and selector rod out and just turn it over by hand and visually look for the play/noise or what ever it is your chasing, it becomes a lot more clear doing this way and you can prove your therory, last thing you want to do is suspect things, prove it and you can't go wrong....
 
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#16 ·
Hey Katilich, I'm just thinking about buying a manual box and was thinking about rebuilding it before putting it in my car because I hate doing things twice, and want the box to be in top condition before I put it in so it doesn't have to be pulled out again if something goes wrong.

I have taken the car for a drive and while it did take a long time to change gears(probably normal for a T5 i'm guessing?), there wasn't any noise or rough shifting.

Are you in Townsville by any chance, btw?

Cheers
 
#17 ·
Katilich... mine has pretty bad backlash too, it's not the diff or tail shaft.. also there is also a fair bit of noise in second,, i'm thinking it's a bearing, first has noise too but second is the worst, if i take the box apart i will be replacing all the bearings.. what else do you recon will be needed? i know it's hard b'cos you don't know the actual condition of the box until it's appart, but just say worst case senerio, full rebuild?? also it's a t5 from an ea

cheers
 
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#20 ·
snotty....dose the noise change with speed? ie. dose it get louder as speed incresses, if so it's a bearing on its way out, as for the backlash, you will hav too hav a look inside and see if the is anything {gears, bearing} excessively warn, and replace all bearing, that hav been interfeared with"recomiend you do the lot" and set your bearing prelodas in acrodance with the amount of back lash you want to obtain, a small amount is essential too allow for expansion as the g-box heats up, veary the backlash by shiming one gear rail in too mesh with the countershaft, the deeper in mesh, the less clearence there is between the teeth..
also check the "race-way" that the neddle rollers run on, too see that every thing is sweet there, if floged out there, can contribute too hard/grinding gear changes......if you are unsure of some of the components conditions, just take that part down to a automatic/manual g-box shop "either one" and ask them what they think.....
 
#21 ·
Anybody recommend a cheap place for parts? I've been quoted $500 for a major bearing kit from a place in Welshpool, plus $50 to do the shimming, just wondered if anyone had heard of a better price...
 
G
#23 ·
snotty.... yer definatly bearings on the way out, as the bearings wear, due to lack of lube"run dry", too much lube "run hot", or contaminates, such as sync facing wear getting lodged in the path of the rollers, incressing ware rapidly, all these will ware the race way and incresse the clearances of the bearing and hence the noise.....the gears used in these boxes lay diagonally across the face and the meshing gear's teeth are cut in the opposite direction, this means when there is a load on the out put shaft "ie weight of car, rolling resistance..ect" the shape of the gears, when driven pull in towards each other reducing the clearance gap between the two tooth faces, but say you were coasting along at low speed, " no throttle" there will come a time when the vehicle speed will equal that of the input shaft and at this point there is no load on the gear train and there for the clearances are increased and backlash/surging will occure....at this point the gearbox normally relies on the bearing preload too hold the gears in mesh, as too not allow for an incresse in clearances
might help you a bit
 
#24 ·
katilich said:
and set your bearing prelodas in acrodance with the amount of back lash you want to obtain, a small amount is essential too allow for expansion as the g-box heats up, veary the backlash by shiming one gear rail in too mesh with the countershaft, the deeper in mesh, the less clearence there is between the teeth
There are no adjustments in a T5 to vary backlash. There are in fact only two adjustments in a T5, cluster preload,(to an end float spec) and input shaft preload, (to an end float spec).
 
#25 ·
dudes! I just rang Bursons today and they quoted me $150 for a basic rebuild kit and $325 for the full rebuild kit....that's pretty good....but it's a matter of fitting....someone must do a change over deal...

Dave.
 
#26 ·
fordboy1996 said:
dudes! I just rang Bursons today and they quoted me $150 for a basic rebuild kit and $325 for the full rebuild kit....that's pretty good....but it's a matter of fitting....someone must do a change over deal...

Dave.
Get details. $150 will be major bearings and seals, $325 will be this plus a small parts kit, including keys, needle rollers, etc. Synchros will be extra.
 
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