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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-09-04, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Toploader Clutch Q's

Okay, So I'm putting a CHI headed 351 infront of a Toploader. Which one of these two brass button clutche discs would be the weapon of choice?



I assume the one with the sprung hub is going to be more streetable? It looks like someone has converted a normal organic clutch disc to brass button? The power/torque figures that i'm expecting are a bit close to the limits of the Hay's street strip, so given I can get one of these cheap, which will be better?
What can I expect to pay for a 11" diaphragm clutch (the bit that bolts to the flywheel? pressure plate is it?)

Thanks Guys
Ben


Last edited by GammaBoy; 10-09-04 at 06:14 PM. Reason: goofed the tags
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-09-04, 08:24 PM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

Yes, the "bit" that bolts to the flywheel is the pressure plate.

You'll need a steel billet flywheel to run one of these clutch discs, a standard one will get destroyed.

The top one has a marcel carrier (spring centre). This one is more streetable and absorbs some of the shock when you release the clutch. The lower type, without the marcel carrier, can act more like an on/off switch. Touchy on the release and can cause alot of chatter when driving like a granny in traffic.

I've never used one but would be really keen to get some feedback from you once fitted. What I would do is wait until the CHI's are fitted and just see how your clutch goes. If it slips and can't handle it then change it. You may get a way with it on street tyres. Slicks = different issue.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

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Originally Posted by TruBlu351
Yes, the "bit" that bolts to the flywheel is the pressure plate.

You'll need a steel billet flywheel to run one of these clutch discs, a standard one will get destroyed.

The top one has a marcel carrier (spring centre). This one is more streetable and absorbs some of the shock when you release the clutch. The lower type, without the marcel carrier, can act more like an on/off switch. Touchy on the release and can cause alot of chatter when driving like a granny in traffic.

I've never used one but would be really keen to get some feedback from you once fitted. What I would do is wait until the CHI's are fitted and just see how your clutch goes. If it slips and can't handle it then change it. You may get a way with it on street tyres. Slicks = different issue.
Well, the only clutch I have is an Incomplete and damaged XA GT twinplate (I currently have a 302 and C4, going to the CHI headed 351 and toploader all at once!), so I was planning to do the clutch setup from scratch... Oh, and discovered the bellhousing I have only has one bolt hole that actually lines up with the toploaders... :( I spose its a single rail bell then?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 02:29 PM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

I wouldn't use either, a button is not suitable for street use.

If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 02:39 PM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

. Oh, and discovered the bellhousing I have only has one bolt hole that actually lines up with the toploaders... :( I spose its a single rail bell then?

The bellhousings are the same apart from being tapped for single rail or toploader. There is one bolt hole in same place for both. All you have to do is bolt toploader to bellhousing(with the one bolt), mark other three holes with a drill bit, then remove toploader and drill and tap the other three holes in the bellhousing.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

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Originally Posted by silicon
. Oh, and discovered the bellhousing I have only has one bolt hole that actually lines up with the toploaders... :( I spose its a single rail bell then?

The bellhousings are the same apart from being tapped for single rail or toploader. There is one bolt hole in same place for both. All you have to do is bolt toploader to bellhousing(with the one bolt), mark other three holes with a drill bit, then remove toploader and drill and tap the other three holes in the bellhousing.
I thought about doing that, but am a bit nervous about not getting it precisely lined up? i bolted the box with that one hole that lines up, but had a reasonable amount of movement available. I imgagine this needs to be fairly precise?
Oh. I've also gotta get a new front bearing retainer, its cracked where the throwout bearing sleeve meets the flange...

Ben
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 08:00 PM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

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Originally Posted by GammaBoy
I thought about doing that, but am a bit nervous about not getting it precisely lined up? i bolted the box with that one hole that lines up, but had a reasonable amount of movement available. I imgagine this needs to be fairly precise?.....Ben
No problem. The accurate locating is done by the spigot area on the retainer. The bolts only hold it on. Line up the one centrally, bolt it down, carefully mark the others, and drill and tap them.

If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

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Originally Posted by WBT56
No problem. The accurate locating is done by the spigot area on the retainer. The bolts only hold it on. Line up the one centrally, bolt it down, carefully mark the others, and drill and tap them.
Spigot area on the retainer? are we still talking about being attached to just the bellhousing? not the motor? I bolted the box up to the bellhousing with the one hole and it could move a few mm... It had room to move between the front bearing retainers OD and the hole in the bell.

Ben
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-10-04, 10:01 PM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

I use the top one on my car. Apparently their supposed to be a problem for street/strip cars but I've never had a problem.

Just like a Tsunami.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-04, 01:43 AM
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Re: Toploader Clutch Q's

Quote:
Originally Posted by GammaBoy
Spigot area on the retainer? are we still talking about being attached to just the bellhousing? not the motor? I bolted the box up to the bellhousing with the one hole and it could move a few mm... It had room to move between the front bearing retainers OD and the hole in the bell.

Ben
That area is meant to be a perfect fit. Someone has either bored your bellhousing to suit a T5, (Larger retainer), or machined your front retainer to suit GM. What diameter is the front retainer?

If you're not driving a manual you're really just steering.
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