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$20 Cold Air Intake.

15K views 51 replies 27 participants last post by  MustangNicko 
#1 ·
Are you looking for a cheap performance mod for your falcon? Cold air induction would be a good start. It only costs around $20 all up and gives you a decent amount of power gain. I have also noticed that I use less fuel when my cold air induction is hooked up.

Alot of people have asked me about cold air induction and how to do it and for pictures, now that I have recently bought a digital camera I can take pictures.. lol

I hope you's find this article usefull.. ;)

Things you'll need:
- a hole drill.
- about 6metres of 2inch piping (reason im saying two inch is because there isnt much room to push a bigger 4inch pipe down beside your motor..this is the reason for me running two 2inch pipes.)
- a few cable ties.
- a stanley knife.

What I done was removed my airbox, ran the two seperate peices of pipe down beside my motor and tucked them under the front bar and ran them to my left hand side vent. I then trimmed the pipes to size and cable tied them together. Then I drilled two 2inch holes in the main part of my airbox just underneth were the filter sits, on the left hand side of the opening for the snorkel. Then I put my airbox back in, I then pushed my two peices of pipe through the holes I drilled (which are a tight fit, which is good). Then I put my filter in and wa-la, I had cold air induction..

I dont think that ive missed anything, but if i have.. let me know :p

Rob.
 

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#2 ·
another picture..

heres another picture.. the cut on the pipe is preety bodgy.. but wat u cant see doesnt really matter :p
 

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#3 ·
a front on view..

here is a front on view.. im yet to get some silver meshing to cover it up.. but thats the plan. lol
 

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#5 ·
I have thought about several ideas like this for my EA, but it cant be done as easily, like SB3 said.
Also, one thing I would be wary of with your setup, is that your air is coming into the airbox UNDER the filter, so the air isnt being filtered. You could be sucking in all sorts of crap and rubbish, NOT a good thing! (well, that is if the airbox setup is similar to the EA, my apologies if it is opposite, as in, the air is sucked from above the filter)
Just a thought.

David
 
#6 ·
Re: cold air induction.

XCHASR said:

Then I drilled two 2inch holes in the main part of my airbox just underneth were the filter sits
Excuse me if I'm wrong but wouldn't this be a bit risky?, if it's going in under the filter you may as well not have the filter there as it's not going to "filter" anything. Won't you get lots of shit in there???? :eyebrow: :freaky: Couldn't you do it above the filter?.
I'm probably wrong but no harm in asking.
Cheers
Mason.
 
#7 ·
davidwatt said:
I have thought about several ideas like this for my EA, but it cant be done as easily, like SB3 said.
Also, one thing I would be wary of with your setup, is that your air is coming into the airbox UNDER the filter, so the air isnt being filtered. You could be sucking in all sorts of crap and rubbish, NOT a good thing! (well, that is if the airbox setup is similar to the EA, my apologies if it is opposite, as in, the air is sucked from above the filter)
Just a thought.

David
Beat me to it mate...:hy:
 
#11 ·
Thats an interesting way of doing it. After you turn the engine off, or get home from a long trip, feel your 'cold air' pipes, not so cold are they. You'll be getting an enormous amout of heat sink going on in those pipes, very close to the block (lots of heat).

Do you have ABS? if not why didnt you drill under the airbox, through the inner guard and then feed a 4" pipe to the front bumper?

I have ABS, so i had to use a 3" pipe, drilled through the front of the box, with a 90deg turn, straight through the inner guard, around the ABS unit and into the front bumper.

100% cold air from front to airbox, no heat sink at all.
 
#12 ·
thanks guys, so i'm thinking us EA-ED boys could do the same but run the piping above the filter. but where could we run this piping from. I'm going to have a look at the ED to see what i can find :hy:

EDIT: Just had a look and cannot figure out a sensible way...:sleep: :eek:o1: :sad: :dead:
 
#13 ·
as south said about the heat

remember metal attracts more heat, that is why theres plastic pipes using.

for a "actual" difference you need to get a fibreglass or plastic pipe made up so it doesnt attract any heat from the rest of the engine bay.

Think about it, metal attracts heat, the pipe heats up, the cold air gets turned into nice warm air as it goes through from the heat, wherefore fibreglass doesnt heat up as much as metal which keeps the flow cooler then metal

Although good, just dont see why everyone thinks its such a "HUGE" improvement, unless your on the freeway you wont notice to much.
 
#14 ·
fUSiON said:
as south said about the heat

remember metal attracts more heat, that is why theres plastic pipes using.

for a "actual" difference you need to get a fibreglass or plastic pipe made up so it doesnt attract any heat from the rest of the engine bay.

Think about it, metal attracts heat, the pipe heats up, the cold air gets turned into nice warm air as it goes through from the heat, wherefore fibreglass doesnt heat up as much as metal which keeps the flow cooler then metal

Although good, just dont see why everyone thinks its such a "HUGE" improvement, unless your on the freeway you wont notice to much.

Couldnt you use pvc stormwater piping as this wont attract the heat
 
#15 ·
Metal, Plastic, Fibreglass, they all heat up. Especially if they are black, the heat soak will be enormous, unless ofcourse you have HPC'd the objects.

And Fibreglass does get hot, it'll take a little longer to heat up, but once the heats there, it'll stick around. If your going on a long trip somewhere, or a car cruise its not going to stay cool regardless of the material used.

Cold air induction for a naturally aspirated vehicle in my opinion is only used to gain throttle response, if you see more than 5kw anywhere in the rev range then your a lucky bugger. And even that 5kw wont be noticed, all you will notice is a nicer and smoother throttle response.
 
#18 ·
i have 2 setups my stock system, and the "racing ststem" racing system is just a pod filter on the end of the induction pipe (ea) which is attached with a pvc 45 deg bend and just sits in the corner behind the headlight with the airbox assembaly removed, with this sys on it makes the car a lot louder and changes the exh tone from a sweet pitched sound th a very rough barky note.

this drastically improves the engine breathing above 2800 rpm
 
#19 ·
another tip: where the pipes enter the airbox get some pvc pipe and a heat gun and form a type of flare/bellmouth on the pipe it helps with airflow thru the box like the trumpets you see on aftermarket efi setups, i read it somewhere about cold air induction into existing airboxes
 
#20 ·
Well, its really not that hard on an EB to put cold air induction in....
All you need to do is use an EF / EL airbox and do a bit of plumbing.

Just ignore the blower in the pic, connect the tube from the outlet of the EF/EL airbox to the tbody - you could even get a nice alloy pipe bent up to fit...





Regards
9psi EB
 
#21 ·
Its not anywhere near the ultimate set up but on an EA you dont have much choice, supprisingly enough it dosent get too hot even after an extended run.

i tried to mount the filter direct onto the throttle body but the air cond. compressor was in the way
 

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#25 ·
hey guys

Just a thought

the 370 kw arrow AU coupe only has the standard intake snorkle and pod filter mounted in a box so why bother with all this other stuff when your vechiles are well below these figures. If it sufficient for a car with that sort of power then its good enough for me.

thanks

yldsix
 
#26 ·
Spinksy said:
Why not try putting a pod filter inside your existing airbox, then running cold air to that?
I would, but...i just brought a brand you K&N panel filter ($130) and can't afford to buy a pod.

Spinksy said:

I think the simplest thing would be just to get an airbox from an EF and swap that with the EA-ED one.
True again indeed.
Cheers
Mason.
 
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